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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 199
Pitt Hill and Hagginton Hill

For this October issue I have chosen two early upright postcards of Pitt Hill and Hagginton Hill, both taken by William Garratt.

The first card, numbered 37, shows two young girls outside Whitecote, 33 Pitt Hill. This is the first cottage on your left as you come up Pitt Hill into the village, and looks much the same today. The older girl is holding a jug and I presume waiting for the milkman to arrive!

The postcard has an August 27th 1904 postmark and has been sent to Miss Hicks, 30 Egerton Rd, St. Judes, Plymouth.

The message reads:

"Dear Em This is N Leys house that use to be. don't think I have sent it before. Thanks so much for hat & jacket it fits lovely. When you have finished with that other hat Aunt E told me about that you was going to give me. I will pay the postage. With love to you all Em."

The second postcard, numbered 31, shows two ladies standing outside a cottage on Hagginton Hill, with the heading 'Country Gossip'. One lady is holding an earthenware jug with another jug on the ground, presumably for water; the other lady is holding a large wicker basket.

It has an October 12th 1904 postmark and has been sent to Miss J. Jennings, East View, North Road, Bradworthy.

The message reads:

"Dear J. Thanks very much for P.C. but please when you send one again you must put 1 [penny] stamp instead of an 1/2 one as we have to pay the other end. Love to all R Hope you will like it."

This being the final Newsletter, I should like to thank Judie for all her hard work editing, compiling and effort put in since our very first Newsletter way back in August 1989.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2022
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 198

Pitt Hill

For this issue I have chosen two early postcards of Pitt Hill. The first shows Fuchsia Cottage on the right, whilst opposite we see Forge Cottage, 37 Pitt Hill and finally the Old Post Office, with the steps leading up to the entrance.

The card was addressed to Mrs. Hicks, 30 Egerton Road, St. Judes, Plymouth and is postmarked Berrynarbor May 14 1906 as well as Ilfracombe 5.45pm May 14 1906. The message reads:

"DM I had this taken Good Friday have sent you one
to see - hope you are all well with love from AH"

Sadly I am unable to name the two people shown nor the couple being driven down the hill in a horse-drawn open carriage.

The second postcard is another photograph taken by William Garratt, numbered 34, and shows the view up Pitt Hill. On the left is Fuchsia Cottage, No. 39. Note the sign for The Globe Inn.

The young lady in the picture is Em Hicks and the following message is written on the address side of the card:

"Dear Em I suppose you know that Em Harding is
engaged. Will Poole told us but we don't know who to
I expect you will recognise me in this picture from Em"

Written in red ink, the card is addressed to Miss Hicks, 30 Egerton Rd, St. Judes, Plymouth. The two postmarks are Berrynarbor MR 23 1904 and Ilfracombe 7pm MR 23 04.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2022
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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In his article for Edition 42, June 1996, View No. 41 - Berrynarbor Post Office - Tom wrote:

The first entry relating to post in any directory for Berrynarbor is that in White's 1850 Directory for Devon, where the following information is given: FOOT POST: Geo. Burgess, to Ilfracombe. Foot post indicated that the named person would accept and deliver letters/post received from the named Postal Office, in this case Ilfracombe. George Burgess, a resident of Berrynarbor, would walk to Ilfracombe first thing in the morning and then walk back to Berrynarbor to deliver any post/letters he had picked up. He would walk in again in the afternoon, taking the post/letters from Berrynarbor for onward consignment.

Roger Morgan in his book on Devon Post Offices stated that the Berrynarbor Village Post Office commenced in 1855 and remains to the present time. This is reinforced by Kelly's 1856 Directory, Billing's Directory, the Post Office Directory of 1866, Morris's Directory of 1870 and Harrod's 1878 Directory. Each gives William Hicks as either 'the receiver', the 'Sub-Master' or the 'Post Master'. William Hicks continues to be mentioned as Sub-Postmaster in all directories up to Kelly's 1902, when the following entry is given: "Post: M.O. 7 T.O., T.M.O., S.B.

Express and Parcel Delivery & Annuity & Insurance Office - William Hicks, sub-postmaster. Letters through Ilfracombe, received at 8.45 a.m., despatched at 5.00 p.m. He is also listed as Parish Clerk and tailor.

William Hicks was born in 1825 and died at the age of 80 in February 1905, having served as sub-postmaster for over half a century, and Church/Parish Clerk for 54 years! His wife, Jane, died a year earlier in 1904 at the age of 85, and their son, Thomas born in 1861, took over as sub-postmaster, a position he held until his death in August 1922. 

The picture, taken by Garratt, shows the original Berrynarbor Post Office. It was included in the first Watermouth Estate Sale on 17th August, 1920, and under Lot 48 sold for 350 guineas, a figure that the then tenant and postmaster, Tom Hicks and his wife Sarah, could not afford.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 197

For this the June issue I have chosen two postcards of our Parish Church, St. Peter's. Both pictures have been taken by William Garratt around 1907.

The first card, No. 47, shows the church and tower and includes part of our garden and church wall at Tower Cottage. The structure on the bottom left is the wall of our garage which lies adjacent to The Globe public house. On the right can be seen a young girl wearing black or dark stockings.

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The second card shows the church, lychgate and steps leading up to it from the village centre and is numbered 49. The slate inscription set into the roof gable above the lychgate states:

The Rev. George Westcott was the Rector of St. Peter's from 1630 until 1674 and he, like most North Devon clergy, was a true Loyalist. However, his second wife, Grace Wychalse, was the sister of John Wychalse, the Parliamentary Commissioner given the task of ejecting Loyalist clergy!

Note: A ychgate is a wooden structure with a roof and open sides place at the entrance to churchyards to provide space for the reception of a coffin. The word lych is Saxon meaning a corpse.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2022
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - 196
Easter Wishes

This year for Easter I have chosen four early postcards from my collection.

The first, Happy Easter, was printed in Germany exclusively for Post Card & Variety Stores Ltd., London, N7, Series 825 in around 1910. It shows a young girl dropping the four coloured eggs she is holding on a tray, and two little chicks that have just hatched.

The second card, Good Wishes for Easter, Great Egg-pectations, was printed and published by J. Salmon of Sevenoaks, Kent, England. It was sent from Petworth in Sussex to Southsea, Hampshire, and is dated April 11th 1926. It shows a small chick on a very large egg!

J. Salmon Ltd., founded in 1880, was a UK-based printing and publishing firm, the oldest established postcard and calendar publisher in Britain. It ceased trading in 2017.

This third card, A Holy Easter, which shows an angel surrounded by snowdrops, was published by Misch & Company in their Easter Praises Series No. 1711. It is postmarked 5.15 p.m. April 15th, 1911. It was sent to Master Alex Hinchy, Main Street, Birr, and reads: Wishing Sandy a very happy Easter. Don't take too many eggs.

Birr is a town in County Offaly, Ireland. Between 1620 and 1899 it was called Parsonstown, after the Parsons family who were local landowners and hereditary Earls of Rosse. Birr is a designated Irish Heritage Town with a carefully preserved Georgian heritage.

This last card, printed in Germany, shows two little girls sitting on a large egg on a barrow. One little girl is clutching a broken egg which is filled with flowers. Sent to Master Conrad Young in Walpole St. Andrew, Near Wisbech, Norfolk, in June 1918, it reads: My Dear Conrad, I am wondering what has happened that you have not written. Please write soon. In haste, Love to all from Jessie.

I wonder what had happened!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2022
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 195

Watermouth, Berrynarbor

This photographic postcard was published around 1955-60 by an unknown publisher, who used purple print for the words POST CARD on the reverse.

It shows a long line of identical caravans and one small white portable caravan in the foreground. I should think that it had been taken in July or August, as the field on the right has been recently mown and the hay has been left in small piles to dry.

This second card, showing Smallmouth Cave, Watermouth, is in colour and has been published by The Knight Collection and is numbered 235/4.

The card, which has a Bideford postmark of 7.15 PM 12 Jan 1915 shows a young visitor rowing a small boat with the local owner holding the boat steady for the photograph to be taken. The message on the reverse side reads:

The card was sent to a Miss Simmonds at Cranleigh, a village and civil parish, about 8 miles southeast of Guildford in Surrey, claimed by some to be the largest village in England.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2022
e-mail: tomandinge40@fmail.com

In my collection I have more than one original copies of postcards of Berrynarbor, anyone is interested in purchasing any, please contact me on [01271] 883408. Tom

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 194.
The Village Berrynarbor

©Copyright The Francis Frith Collection

This photographic postcard was published by Francis Frith and numbered BYR.42 was posted from BERRYNARBOR on Wednesday 9th September 1964. It was addressed to a Mr. & Mrs. E. Oliver living in Guernsey, Channel Islands. The picture shows Bessemer Thatch with a tiled roof, as the original thatched roof burnt down on the 5th May,1937. My original article about the fire was given in Newsletter No. 66, way back in June 2000.

The following morning, an article appeared in the Western Morning Newspaper:

"Two Brigades Fight Fire -  Berrynarbor Hill House Destroyed - Outbreak starts in thatch".

Known to thousands of visitors the picturesque Bessemer Thatch House was destroyed by fire last evening. The damage is estimated at nearly £1,000.. The lower portion of the house, with its modern interior, is owned by Canon Jolly of the Deanery, Southampton. Every summer he visits the place and has done so for a great number of years, At the time he was not in residence, but the news of its destruction was conveyed to his wife, who told the Canon, who, it is understood, had left hospital only yesterday after an operation. The higher portion of the Thatch is owned and occupied by Miss L. C. Veale, head mistress of the Berrynarbor Council School. She was home at the time."

Summarised, the article tells us that a spark from a nearby chimney caught the thatched roof on fire shortly after five o'clock. The first to notice it was Mrs. D.Toms who lived almost opposite at Dormer Cottage. She at once sent for the Ilfracombe Fire Brigade.

Bessemer Thatch was originally three separate cottages, Nos. 47, 48 and 49 the village, with Little Gables, No. 50, on the corner.

Following the fire, Canon Jolly became the sole owner and arranged for the rebuilding of Bessemer Thatch, alas without thatch! He remained as the sole owner/occupier right up until his death in 1972.

Dormer Cottage is also shown in this postcard with young children playing in front.

The writing on the back of the card ends: Wouldn't like to farm in Devon. Children well a bit hectic as you can imagine. Love P & J.

This second upright card shows a young lad striking a broken tin as a drum and states: "A Right Merry Christmas to You". This very early postcard, published by Raphael Tuck and Sons, was posted on 25th December 1904 when only the address was allowed to be written on the back!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2021
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

A Bright happy and Joyous Easter was published by E.A. Schwerdfeger & Co. of London and printed in Germany. It shows two chicks carrying a pink egg filled with flowers in the form of a sedan chair with the message, "This car is a patent there is no doubt, You don't see many like this about." Interestingly, the reverse address side is printed the opposite way up.

Easter Greetings, printed in Germany, shows a young lad carrying his sister. Her shoulder basket contains four chicks, but one has popped out! A Happy Easter, printed in Germany c1904 and numbered 298 depicts a hare with a sack of Easter eggs, contained within an egg shape surrounded by pussy willow.

The final card, May Your Easter Be Bright with the words 'May your Easter brighter be Because I've not forgotten thee', has a 1918 postmark with a message 'Buy National War Bonds Now'. The lady chick wears a pretty blue bonnet, whilst he wears a bowler hat and is smoking a pipe!

 

Finally, I should like to wish all readers A Very Happy Easter 2019 and thank Judie for the very good quality Newsletter she produces these days.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2019
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 177

Cockhill, Berrynarbor.96.

 

This rare view of [Middle] Cockhill is yet another view taken by William Garratt of Bristol, around 1920, despite the card having a 1928 postmark. Until recently and for many years, Cockhill was the home of the late Laurie and Peggy Harvey of King's Carpets, Barnstaple.

This Small Holding was sold as Lot 19 in the Watermouth Estate Auction held on 17th August 1920 at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, as:

"Middle Cockhill, a very Desirable SMALL HOLDING, Comprising: A good Slated Dwelling House, convenient Outbuildings, and about 13a. 2r. l;18p. Of Meadow, Pasture, Arable and Garden Lands, in the Occupation of Mr. J. Huxtable as a Yearly Lady-day Tenant. The Apportioned Title on this Lot is £3 9s 0d."

The Lot realised £750 on the day, being purchased by the existing Lady-day Tenant Mr. J. Huxtable.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2019
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 176

For Christmas and New Year, I have chosen two local views with over-printed greetings.

The first shows Watermouth Beach [Smallmouth Cove] with Holdstone and Hangman Hills in the background. The rowing boats shown here were used to ferry visitors over to Broadsands Beach, eliminating a long trek and over 200 steep steps down to and more importantly, up from the Cove. They would also take visitors to Combe Martin and around the Bay. This particular card was published c1910 by The Knight Collection, printed in Belgium.

 

The second, Wishing you a Bright and Happy New Year, has been taken from Watermouth and shows Sandy Bay and Hangman's Hill. A two-funnel steamer can just be seen steaming out of Combe Martin Bay. The card was published by The Pictorial Stationery Company Limited of London, and printed in Saxony [Germany] around 1904. This particular card has been sent on December 31st 1905 and has a Barnstaple postmark. It would have been delivered first post on New Year's Day 1906.

 

These are two further Christmas postcards from my collection, dating from about 1901-1902. Both are postmarked Ilfracombe 04 and addressed to Miss Lucy Creek at the Montebello Hotel, Ilfracombe.

I should like to wish everyone a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year 2019.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2018
e-mail.tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 175

Whitecote, Pitt Hill

 

This view of Whitecote, 33 Pitt Hill, has been taken by William Garratt, probably as early as 1902-3. As far as I am aware, it has not been published as a postcard. The card has a plain back and endorses my belief that the Bristol photographer may have stayed at this address on his many visits to Berrynarbor.

I now have four views of this cottage taken by him and this is, without any doubt, the earliest as there is no porch over the front door. Note the Victorian costume of both the children and the adults, as well as the broom that possibly the mother is holding and the jug, presumably of milk, on the step beside what appears to be a young boy.

As mentioned in previous issues, Whitecote was described in the 1920 Watermouth Estate Sale as:

"Lot 62 - All that Slated Cottage, Stable, Trap House, Piggery, Potato House, Large Garden and Premises situate and being No. 33 Pitt Hill, in the occupation of Mr. Nicholls as a Quarterly Tenant. Note: the garden of this Lot is a very fine building site. The Apportioned tithe on this Lot is 1s.9d. This Lot gets its Water from a Tap in the road."

At the Sale on 17th August, 1920, at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, the cottage was sold for the relatively high price of £260 with completion on 25th March 1921.

It remains to this day a very desirable property with both Tim and Jill Massey loving living there.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2018
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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Berrynarbor Newsletter No. 64
February 2000

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 174

Attendance Officer on Pitt Hill

 

This view of the School Attendance Officer, Mr. Hooper, for Ilfracombe, Combe Martin and Berrynarbor, shows him walking up Pitt Hill. This photographic picture was taken, yet again, by William Garratt around 1903-4 and is numbered 11. Note the roof of Rose Cottage on lower right, whilst on lower left the cottages 30 and 31 Pitt Hill can just be seen. Here we also have a great picture of the houses on Hagginton Hill, which was formerly known as Heanton Hill.

The message on the reverse side of the card is very interesting:

". . . and peered into the window of the only other shop the place contains, where you see biscuits and ribbon and pencils and sweets all on the same counter. We wanted some sweets but the flies were so numerous. On the way home, we went by the inland road, past all these white cottages."

The shop mentioned is undoubtedly Dormer Cottage Shop as run by Mr. Klee who was of German extraction.

It should be noted that the Attendance Officer would look into the reasons why any children were not attending school and would inform the parents that their children must attend school regularly unless the doctor had said they should stay at home because of illness or fever.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2018
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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The Attendance Officer

The post of School Attendance Officer originated with the 1870 Education Act and his job description was to track student attendance and enforce rules about truancy, which varied according to each school's guidelines and local laws. They sometimes even tracked down specific students who had a habit of missing school.

The Attendance Officers, responsible for the enforcement of compulsory attendance, changed their approach to truancy under the influence of child welfare legislation and changing views of the child in the first decade of the 20th century. Some of the changes of their work emerged as a direct response to the implementing the law in relation to child welfare but at the same time, attendance officers themselves increasingly aspired to a new welfare role which emphasised support and help for the needy family in place of the punitive role they had previously undertaken. But it was not easy for them to change their image from the familiar one of the 'kid-catcher'.

Today, all schools must record details of pupils' attendance and absence at school. They do so at the beginning of morning and afternoon sessions and if a child is absent, the parent must tell the school why. The school will record the absence. The Education Welfare Service [EWS] gets this information for each pupil. The Department of Education also receives annually attendance data for each school.

By law, all children of compulsory school age [normally four to 16] must receive a suitable full-time education. For most parents, this means registering their child at a school - though some choose to make other arrangements to provide a suitable, full-time education.

Once a child is registered at a school, the parent[s] are legally responsible for making sure they go regularly.  If the child doesn't go to school, parents could get fined or be prosecuted in court. 

The Education Authority is responsible for investigating if they believe a child is not getting educated at home or at school.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 173

THE POST OFFICE & VILLAGE

This view of the Post Office and Village was published by F. Frith & Co. Ltd. of Reigate, Surrey, around 1961 and has the number BYR59. This photographic card shows just how many large trees were then growing near the church and beyond, and appears to have been taken during the summer, June/August.

I wish that I could identify the car outside the shop, and note the public telephone box which can only just be seen.

©Copyright The Francis Frith Collection

This particular card has been sent to Miss N & J Herbert of "Mayflower Cottage", Gold Hill, Chalfont St. Peter, Buckinghamshire on the 11th July 1963.

The message reads: We have just had coffee here which is a mile from the hotel up a country lane; we passed the farm from which we ordered your cream. Hope it has arrived. Sorry it was too small, we will send or bring a larger one next time. The sun is shining this morning but it looks unsettled. The village, buried in a valley, was completely cut off by the snow but seems to have survived. Love from Daddy."

Betty Davis was the Post Mistress from 1958 to 1961, and Keith and Margaret Walls Joint Post Master and Mistress from 1961 to 1977.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2018
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 172

HAPPY EASTER 2018

Easter comes upon us once again, and I have chosen four early Easter postcards from my collection.

The first, a fantasy postcard from c1904, was printed in Germany. It shows no fewer than twenty-two babes in a giant Easter egg, which has been opened by a large Easter Hare. Other hares can be seen looking at a nest of coloured Easter eggs and holding up a sign. The postcard is numbered 336 and was sold throughout Europe.

The second postcard shows a lucky Hare peeping out from a large Easter egg as well as pussy willow and a further two eggs. It has the caption:

Happiness with you abide,
All this joyful Eastertide,
And when its glad hours depart,
Leave the peace within your heart.

This card, published by Wildt & Kray of London, E.C., is numbered 2654 and was posted in Bodmin on March 22nd 1913.

The third postcard, printed in Germany exclusively for Postcard and Variety Stores Ltd. of London, N. 7., shows a young lad with a baby lamb and a young girl holding a baby rabbit. They are sitting on a tuft of grass with a further baby rabbit sitting between a red and a blue Easter egg.

The final postcard shows a young bonnet-clad girl holding a bunch of pussy willow with a larger than life chick holding an umbrella. As well as the greeting A Joyous Easter, it says:

Mr. Chicken up to fun Shaded from the Easter sun.

This card was published by E.A. Schwerdtfeger & Co. of London, E.C. and was again posted from Bodmin, this time on the 10th April 1914.

Once again my thanks to our Editor, Judie, and Printer, David, for the great reproduction of last year's Easter cards.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2018
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 171

Middle Lee Farm

For this Newsletter I have chosen an upright postcard showing the wife of farmer Phillip Pethrick at the gate of Middle Lee Farm around 1903.She is dressed in typical village clothing of the time, boots, long skirt with white apron, blouse and a straw boater.One can only presume that she is going to take water to the animals or chickens with the large and heavy watering can she is holding.

 

It appears that the photograph, by W. Garratt of Bristol, was taken in the summer, as both bedroom windows are wide open.

In September 1906, the occupancy of Middle Lee Farm [119 The Village] was taken over by Francis [Frank] Toms.This tenancy continued until the large Watermouth estate Sale took place on Tuesday, 17th August, 1920, at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, when Frank Toms purchased Middle Lee Farm, Lot 21, for £1,350, with completion set for Lady Day on the 25th March 1921.

Upon Frank's death in 1923, his son, Daniel, took over the farm and Tea House. Dan and his wife Lizzie had two children, Reginald and Violet.Reginald went to live in Weybridge, Surrey, until his death in 1997.Vi remained in the village and married Dave Goodman and they lived in Dormer Cottage. Dave died in 1987 and shortly after Vi moved in to the Cottage, 44 the Village, until her death in 2002.

Dan's nephew, Ron Toms, was brought up by his mother Hilda and his grandparents, Frank and ellen Toms, at Middle Lee.He married his wife, Gladys, in 1943, and they lived in Birdswell Lane with their two children, Raymond and Sheila. Sadly, whilst writing this article, I learnt that Ron had died aged 101 at Lee Lodge, where he had been well looked after for nearly ten years.

In 1939, Middle Lee Farm was purchased by Raymond George Smith and more recently it has been owned by Alex and Pam Parke, Jenny and Robin Downer, and currently by Phil and Chris Brown.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2018
e-mail:tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 170

Christmas 2017 and New Year 2018

Not really old Berrynarbor, but like last year I have chosen two Christmas and two New Year greeting postcards from my collection.

The first is a very early postcard published by Raphael Tuck & Sons, chromographed in Germany and numbered 3534. The card has an un-split back and a squared thimble ILLFRACOMBE 5.15 PM DE 24 [19]04postmark. It was sent to Miss W. Creek, Hotel Montebello, Ilfracombe. The fact that it shows a Father Christmas in blue shows how early the card was published.*

*Father Christmas was originally clothed in either green or blue, but in the 1930's, a certain American soft drinks company decided he should be dressed in red as part of a marketing campaign. And that has stuck!

The second, over-printed Christmas Greetings, shows the view looking down Fore Street, Ilfracombe, and is from the original painting by the famous artist H.B. Wimbush, and numbered 7461. The postmark over a green halfpenny stamp is SAFRON-WALDEN 10PM DE 24 [19]06.

On the address side is states:Fore Street, Ilfracombe, once a seaport of some importance, is now a rapidly increasing watering place, whose popularity is as well-established as the reputation of its mild winters. Fore Street used to be its main street, but there are many new squares and terraces now.

The first New Year postcard has not been posted but is again a fairly early greetings card.

As well as the verse by William Luff, it shows a goldcrest, which is the smallest of all European birds. It weighs just 5 to 6 grams and 8 to 11 eggs are incubated by the hen for 14 days.

The fourth and final card - A Merry Christmas and Happy New Year - shows a pretty young lady with a feint message:

I was going to send you a letter
To you whose memory is dear
But instead I will wish you by postcard
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Again, the card has been printed in Germany and has a 1912 postmark over a green halfpenny stamp of George V.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2017
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 169

Berrynarbor Mill

This month I have chosen a postcard of Berrynarbor Mill [Berry Mills, now Mill Park] taken by the Bristol photographer William Garratt around 1903. The photographic postcard shows Miss Jewell sitting with her dog beside the overshot mill wheel. Her father, John Jewell, was the miller there between 1883 and 1906.

Wheat grown in the fields around Berrynarbor would be gathered in, threshed and brought to the mill where it would be ground into flour. The flour would then be taken home for making bread. Each cottage would have a small bread oven beside their open fireplace. Any wheat grains that fell where the wheat was stored was raked up as 'rakings' and taken to the mill to be ground for pig meal.

Note that there is no water coming from the overshot mill wheel as the miller would only open a sluice to allow water to feed into the top of the wheel when grinding corn.

Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Smith took over the Mill around 1905 and Lewis Smith was born there on the 9th October 1916. Lewis, whom many of us knew, and who died in 1989, had a brother Park and sister Evelyn and the family all moved to the larger West Hagginton Farm in October 1919.

George Burgess then took over as miller from 1919 until the mills and dairy farm were sold. The sale was on Thursday, 5th June, 1924 at the auction of portions of the Watermouth Estate, held at the Manor Hall, Berrynarbor, by John Smale, F.A.I.

The Mill was listed as:

Lot 6 : Berry Mills - a very desirable Grist Mill and Dairy Farm. Comprising Slated Dwelling House containing: Sitting Room,Kitchen, Back Kitchen, Dairy and Four Bedrooms, with Garden, Mill and Water Wheel, Tiled Six-stall Shippen, Dutch Barn, Tiled Piggery, Tiled Shippen, Slated Two-stall Stabled, Tiled Calf House, and about 16a, 2r.29p of Rich Watered Meadow, Pasture and Woodlands, as now in the occupation of Mr. C.H. Burgess at a Yearly Michaelmas Tenant.

James Chugg was the purchaser remaining there until at least 1939.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, August 2017
E-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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Note: A tribute to Lewis Smith and a different postcard picture of the Mill appeared in the first issue of the Newsletter in August 1989. See: here

 

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 168

Berrynarbor Church & The Globe Inn

I have recently, thanks to Pat Babbington of Essex, been able to purchase the large collection of Berrynarbor postcards of her late husband, Terry. For this issue, I have chosen two of those cards, published by Hawke of Helston. The first is numbered 18063 and is of St. Peter's Church and the Lych Gate around 1927.

The picture shows two young lads sitting on the church steps. What is also most noticeable on the left is the very large tree growing in the churchyard. Whilst a bench can be seen just under the church wall, there is no sign of any bus shelter or of the War Memorial. Part of what was the 'Village Pound' can just be seen on the extreme left, now, of course, the garage for Dormer Cottage. The church clock is showing twenty to one, or possibly five past eight! What do you think? Note the position of the shadows.

The second postcard is numbered 18015 and shows the front entrance of The Globe Inn. Particularly take note of the signs showing over the wall on the left advertising:

Just over the door and on the left 'Private Bar' can just be seen.

 

Albert Herbert Hawke was a well-known and highly acclaimed photographer and postcard publisher from Helston, Cornwall. He carried out his business from a studio and shop in Meneage Street, Helston and travelled all over Cornwall, North Devon and Exmoor taking photographs of villages and seaside resorts. He was not known to take photographs of large towns or cities, or even inland villages other than a few on Exmoor, like Brendon, Oare and Rockford. He was well-known as the photographer of the Helston Flurry [Flora] Dance and Padstow Hobby Hoss Day, also of elections, wrecks, fires and hotels and country houses. Known, as some of his earliest pictures are those of the visit by the Lord Mayor Treloar of London to the Flora Day and St. Keverne in 1907, and the new Helston fire engine in 1910.

I now have at least 23 different postmarked postcards of Berrynarbor and Watermouth dating from 1927.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2017
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 167

Sports at Woolacombe

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2017
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 166

Happy Easter 2017

For this month I have chosen three early Easter postcards from my Collection.

The first is the third in a set, two of which were shown in the previous Newsletter No. 160 in February 2016. The set is published by Wildt & Kray of London E.C. No. 2611 and printed in Saxony c1904. Wildt and Kray are renowned for the early production of fine, coloured postcards.

The second postcard is again printed in Germany, exclusively for Postcard and Variety Stores Ltd. of London, N. 7, and is just one of five such Easter cards in my Collection.

The third card shows a rather typical Lucy Atwell little girl in an Easter bonnet, sucking her finger and sitting on a hat box. This card has been published by PPC under their Philco series and is numbered 3841.

I believe this was published during the First World War or shortly after, as it states 'British Throughout', Comic Series.

My thanks to our Editor, Judie, and Printer, Dave, for the great reproduction of last year's cards, and hopefully for this year as well!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2017
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 165

Watermouth Castle

 

This view of Watermouth Castle was taken and published by the Bristol photographer, William Garratt. It would have been taken c1909 and shows the castle and battlements completely covered in ivy. The main road between Ilfracombe and Combe Martin can be seen in the middle of the picture and is bordered by walls and hedges. Whilst in the foreground cows can be seen munching away at the grass.

Note just how wooded the entire background to the Castle and how undeveloped this part of Watermouth Cove was at this time.

Berrynarbor, Watermouth and much of the surrounding area comprising of almost 50 farms had been purchased in 1712 by Joseph Davie Bassett. It was not until 1825 that the building of the present Castle was commenced for Joseph Davie Bassett and completed many years later.

Joseph married Harriet Sarah Crowforth at Dulverton in 1828. They returned to Watermouth and set up home with a staff of approximately 40 domestics, 7 gardeners, 2 grooms and many workers and craftsmen employed on the estate. The estate included quarries, saw and flour mills, etc.

Mrs. Penn-Curzon was the last of the Bassett family to live at Watermouth. During the First World War the castle was used as a convalescent home for army officers.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2017
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 164

Christmas 2016 and New Year 2017

 

For this issue I have chosen two Christmas and two New Year Greeting Post Cards. The first postcard was published by Raphael Tuck & Sons, chromographed in Saxony [Germany]. It shows four young girls as artwork by Frances Brundage [1854-1937] an American illustrator best known for her depictions of attractive and endearing children on postcards.

This postcard has an un-split back allowing only the address to be written on the back and has been sent to 'Miss W Creek Montebello Local'. The card has a green, King Edward VII half penny stamp with a squared thimble Ilfracombe December 1904 postmark.

The second upright view is also published by Raphael Tuck & Sons and has been photographed in Austria. It shows a charming young lady holding a well-groomed poodle.

The first New Year postcard shows a beautifully dressed young Victorian lady with a fan in front of an ornate pedestal mirror. This embossed postcard has been printed in Berlin and has a split back allowing a message as well as an address and has been published around 1905.

The second needs no explanation! Published by Miller & Laing of Glasgow under their National Series, this card has a split back with a December 21st 1905 postmark. It is interesting to note that 'This Space For Inland Colonial and certain Foreign Correspondence, is printed on the left-hand side of the card. It has been sent to 'Miss A Passmore Railway Terrace East-the-Water Bideford'.

The picture of St. Peter's lych-gate which appeared on Page 5 of the October 2016 issue of the Newsletter, was in fact taken by William Garratt and numbered 49, and as such was taken c1905. I have one such card postmarked 1907 ref:136.6.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2016
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 63

Berrynarbor Church and Village

How history can repeat itself! Early in 1991, the A399 showed stress marks, due to the weakness of the cliff, to appear on the road just below the entrance to Greenleas, Berrynarbor. For safety reasons, the DCC installed traffic lights and traffic was only allowed to use the landward side of the road. On the 10th April 1991, the Planning and Transportation Committee of Devon County Council reviewed as an emergency item, to divert the road from Windy Ridge via the rear of Little Firs, On a Hill Garage and then behind the succeeding properties before rejoining the main road to Ilfracombe. It was estimated this would cost in the region of £650,000. Assurance was given that the work would be completed in the shortest possible time, although a start could not be made before September with completion hopefully by the end of March 1992.

My grateful thanks to Daphne Challacombe of Combe Martin for her help with this article.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail: tombartlett@hotmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 129

Berrynarbor

This photographic postcard was taken and published by A.H. Hawke of Helston around 1928. Albert Herbert Hawke was a well-known and highly acclaimed photographer and postcard publisher. He carried out his business from a studio and shop in Meneage Street, Helston, and travelled all over the West Country taking photographs of villages and seaside resorts. This particular card shows in the foreground, Manor Cottage, present home of Mike and Joan Harte. Just behind it is The Olde Cottage, now known as Court Cottage, home to Clive and Sue Watson-Harrison. The top left of the picture shows cottages and Grattons House on Hagginton Hill and the fields and house in the centre is Mill Park.

Manor Cottage, 53 The Village, was included in Lot 45 of the Watermouth Estates Sale of 17th August 1920, with completion set as 25th March 1921:

'also a conveniently arranged Five-roomed Tiled Cottage, with potato house and wash house, No. 53, situate adjoining the grounds of Court Cottage [The Old Court] as now in the occupation of Mr. T. Latham as a quarterly Tenant. The apportioned Tithe on this lot is 4s. The Timber to be taken in the sum of £5.0s.6d. There is a water-tap, W.C. and Bath on this Lot and also a Tap in the Tiled Cottage. The right to maintain the Stop-tap, and pipe through the Garden is reserved.'

In the same Sale, details of Court Cottage [The Old Court] stated:

'Lot 45 A charmingly situated Slated Detached Private Residence known as Court Cottage, situate in the Village of Berrynarbor, in the occupation of Mrs. Harris, whose Tenancy expires at Michaelmas next, comprising:

A Porch Entrance, Entrance Hall, Morning Room, Drawing Room, Dining Room, Back Lobby, Kitchen, Larder, Pantry, W.C., Five Bedrooms, Two Dressing Rooms, Two Boxrooms, Upstairs W.C. &c. Lawn, Flower and Vegetable Gardens, Tool Shed, Poultry House, Stable, Coach House or Garage, Coal House &c. Front, Side and Back Entrances, Two Staircases, Verandah. The whole containing 2 roods.'

[A rood is a measure of land, 40 sq. poles or a quarter of an acre. This term varies locally, especially as a loose term for a small piece of land.]

Lot 45, Court Cottage [The Old Court - not shown on the postcard] and Manor Cottage sold for £850.

Berry Mills [Mill Park] was sold in the second Watermouth Estate Sale of 5th June 1924, as Lot 6:

'A very desirable Grist Mill and Dairy Farm, comprising Slated Dwelling-House containing: Sitting Room, Kitchen, Back Kitchen, Dairy and Four Bedrooms, with Garden, Mill and Water Wheel, Tiled Six-stall Shippen, Dutch Barn, Tiled Piggery, Tiled Shippen, Slated Two-stall Stable, Tiled Calf House and about 16a.2r.29p. of Rich Watered Meadow, Pasture and Woodlands, as now in the occupation of Mr. C.H. Burgess, as a Yearly Michaelmas Tenant.'

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

Manor Cottage, with Court Cottage illustrated by: Nigel Mason [1996]

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 128

The Great Storm, Friday, December 16th, 1910

Apropos some of our recent weather, for this issue I am covering the Great Storm Disaster that struck all along the North Devon coast 100 years ago. The Ilfracombe Chronicle reported: Great Storm in the West - Disasters at Ilfracombe - Great Havoc - Hotel Baths Wrecked - The Pier in Ruins - Capstone Parade much damaged - Promenade Shops Smashed.

'On Friday last, the town was visited by probably the greatest disaster ever known by a high tide, backed by a furious gale from the west, with a veering to the north of west. During the morning, the wind was blowing with great force, but early in the afternoon the strength of the gale grew, until by five o'clock, it was almost a hurricane.

'The evening tide was full at 5.24 p.m. and by this time, the waves were rolling in with terrific force, and flying to a tremendous height. About 6 p.m., there occurred what appeared to have been a great tidal wave, which resulted in wreck and ruin to some of the most solid masonry.

'The lamp posts on the Parade were about the first to go and they were snapped off like fragile reeds. Heavy seats and big blocks of masonry were carried upon the crest of the wave which swept over Ropery Meadow at a height estimated at 15 to even 30 feet high, leaving ruin and wreckage in its path. The houses on the Quay were flooded with the Quay itself being under water.'

Considerable damage was also caused in Clovelly, Vellator, Lee, Combe Martin and Lynmouth. I, myself, have a large proportion of the 'Great Gale' post cards of Ilfracombe, as well as some of the places mentioned above.

In the case of Clovelly, the postcard shows the damage to the front of the Red Lion Hotel with large rocks washed up and fishermen clearing up.

Further along the coast at Bucks Mill, I have a card showing eight men working to clear the immense damage caused to a large building on the then quay. There is also, damage to the round, lime kiln, whilst the larger square one appears untouched. Both pictures were taken by Reilly, the photographer from Clovelly.

One card shows the 'Dona-Luisa' of Bideford stranded at Instow, whilst another taken at Braunton Marsh shows drowned sheep with lots of onlookers and a dog.

 
The 'Dona-Luisa' of Bideford stranded at Instow

I then have three pictures taken at Lee showing vast damage to the sea wall and surrounding area by Phillips and Lees of Ilfracombe. Moving on from Ilfracombe, a card of Combe Martin shows immense damage to the Parade and finally, I have cards of damage caused at Lynmouth.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail:tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 127

Berrynarbor School 1955-6

This picture of Berrynarbor School in 1955-6 shows Head Mistress, Mrs. Vera Cowperthwaite, together with her class. I am again indebted to Sonia Duckett for the picture and her and Elaine Fanner [nee Crighton] for giving me the names of the 30 children shown.

• Back Row: Mrs. Cowperthwaite, Sidney Dennis, Raymond Thorne, Neil Dalgren, Ray Toms, Paul Smith, Colin Weeks, Brian Dennis
• Middle Row: Colin Bryson, John Sledmar, Andrew Cruickshank, Adrian Jelfs, Larry White, Roger Blackwell, Michael Warburton, John Sidebottom, Michael Mitcham, John Harris, Stuart Thomas
• Front Row: Hilary Smythe, Elaine Crighton, Vera Coates, Sonia Stoddart [Duckett], Edna Coates, Bridget Emmerson, Janet Lomer, Rosemary Huxtable, Eileen Stanbury, Cheryl Layton, Diana Crick, Linda Thorne

At this time there were only two classes at the school. Miss Muriel Richards taught the Infants Class [5-7 year olds] with around 15 pupils and Mrs. Cowperthwaite the older Class 2 [7-11 year olds].

The Infants' classroom had an old-type coke heater with high metal surround and wet clothing was put on railings to dry beside it. School dinners were cooked in the school by Miss Brooks, who lived in Ilfracombe. Elaine and Sonia both remember these dinners as being hot, good, wholesome food - roast dinners, stews - with good fresh vegetables and, of course, puddings of the steamed variety, and if you were lucky, an extra spoonful of mock cream! Dinners, enjoyed by all the pupils, cost 1 shilling a day, 5 new pence. Sports were held in a field owned by Bob Richards, Cheryl Layton's uncle. Sonia and Elaine also remember one exciting outing to Cheddar Gorge and Bristol Zoo where they were delighted to see Rosie, the famous elephant who gave thousands of rides to children during the 1950's.

When the Queen was crowned on 2nd June 1952, the children were given the day off school. At that time not many villagers had television, so the Manor Hall was filled with chairs for anyone to watch on a television screen. Despite grim weather, the hall was packed and games for the children were played in the field at Moules Farm.

The school had five outside toilets - three for the girls and two for the boys - and in winter the children dashed in and out! Fresh milk was provided daily for all pupils in 1/3rd pint bottles, delivered in crates from a local farm. Elaine remembers that every Friday was spelling tests and occasionally they would go to Brimlands in Ilfracombe for sports. Country dancing took place in the playground - weather permitting - with a wind-up portable gramophone and needles that needed changing frequently. Always on Ash Wednesday the children carried a twig of ash to school and nature walks, often going down the Sterridge Valley, were one of the favourite activities. In the autumn hips and haws were collected and put in old jam jars. Everyone looked forward to the conker season, with some children being known to soak their conkers in vinegar to produce a winner!

The second picture shows the Infants Class back around 1920 with their teacher Miss Lily Richards, who later married Fred Huxtable. Previously shown in View No. 69, the pupils are:

• Back Row: Verna Richards, Reg Leigh, Rachel Irwin, Vera Richards , Phyllis Watkins, Mary Lavinia Pinching
• Middle Row: Frances Huxtable, George Gear, Leslie Sydnam, Ron Toms, Brenda Richards, George Irwin
• Front Row: Frederick Draper, Albert Adams, Eddie Courtney, Doris Cornish, Honour Irwin

Further to my article in the August issue (see here), Ron and Gladys Dyer have kindly given me the name of their Best Man, Desmond Lee, and Bridesmaid, Valerie Williams. Valerie later married Gladys' brother Wilfred.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2010
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO 126

Berrynarbor Sewing Group

This very early and fantastic photograph of the Berrynarbor Sewing Group was taken c1890-95, and in the front row, the pretty young lady, third from left, is Blanche Bowden. Sadly Blanche, who had married William H. Bowden in 1899, died on the 25th March 1900. She was only 21 years old and died just one week after giving birth to her daughter, Blanche Pretoria, on the 17th March.

Blanche Pretoria, who married Sidney Dummett, was born and lived all her 94 years at South Lee until her death on the 15th November 1994. Blanche and her mother are both buried in St. Peter's churchyard, just a short distance from the top north gate opening on to Barton Lane. William Bowden remarried and his second wife, Florence, died on 11th November 1930 aged 55 years.

The second picture shows Blanche Dummett with young Sonia Duckett [nee Stoddart] and their dog, Bounce, at South Lee Farm.

I am indebted to Sonia, who in 1948-9, having first been scrubbed, was brought by train from a Church of England home in Wales to Ilfracombe Station by Miss Hurst, the matron of the home. From there, they took a taxi to South Lee, Berrynarbor, where Sonia, then about 3 or 4 years old, was fostered by Blanche Dummett. Miss Hurst returned two days later to check that all was well. Sonia tells me that she had the most wonderful childhood here in the village with memories of choir outings to Woolacombe beach then tea in the Red Barn, carol singing around the village. She also remembers Mrs. Cowperthwaite and Miss Richards as her teachers at the Primary School, and Harry Graves mending shoes and pulling out milk teeth with strong boot thread!

The third picture is of the wedding of Ron Dyer and Gladys, daughter of Violet Toms, 1956, grouped on the cobbled steps by the lych gate at St. Peter's. From left to right: Sonia, bridesmaid and best man unknown, Ron, Gladys, Ruby Draper and a young Sheila Toms [daughter of Ron and Gladys]. Behind Sheila is William Bowden with his third wife holding her hat whilst talking to Mrs. Toms, the bride's grandmother.

I wonder if anyone knows the family name of Blanche Bowden, also the missing names on the Wedding photograph. Please let me know if you do.

* the missing names from the wedding were provided in Edition 128. See here.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2010
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - No. 125

In Berrynarbor. 100

Linking up with Lorna's article about Berrynarbor Mills, for this issue I have chosen another photograph taken and published in the early 1920's by John William Garratt.

The view shows what we now know as Mill Park Camping Site with the east side of Berry Mills House seen in the centre. Of course, at this time it was being used for farming but already some camping was taking place in the field beyond the open barn. The card I have was sent to a Mr. and Mrs. A.S. Ford in Street, Somerset, in the early '20's and reads:

'Ain't it grand to be bluming well washing! It's far better camping though! At the moment we are sprawled out just behind the hedge under the hedge [under the cross on the other side]. We are very lucky with our pitch, just near the village store, water and all at hand. It was baking hot yesterday. We visited Combe Martin in the morning, stayed home in the afternoon, I visited Ilfracombe at night. Just thinking about cooking dinner now. Love Bella.'

The list of Millers for Berry Mills from 1850 [White's Directory] up to 1939 [Kelly's Directory] are:

• 1850 - Jane Dyer
• 1856 - Thomas Pile
• 1866 - John Hancock, Jnr.
• 1878-1906 - John Jewell
• 1906-1923 - Ernest Smith [Lewis Smith's father]
• 1923-1926 - George Burgess
• 1926-1939 - James Chugg

The mill had an overshot water wheel constructed of cast iron with wooden buckets and wheel diameter of 20' and width of 5'. It was fed with water running in a leat taken from the stream beyond North Lee Farm and running alongside the road until it reached Berry Mills.

In the Watermouth Estate Sale of 1924, Lot 6 describes: 'Berry Mills, a very desirable Grist Mill and Dairy Farm comprising slated Dwelling House containing: Sitting room, Kitchen, Back Kitchen, Dairy and four Bedrooms, with Garden, Mill and water Wheel, Tiled six-stall Shippen, Dutch Barn, Tiled Piggery, Tiled Shippen, Slated two-stall Stable, Tiled Calf House and about 16 acres 2r 29p of Rich Watered Meadow, Pasture and Woodlands, as now in the occupation of Mr. C.H. Burgess as a Yearly Michaelmas Tenant.' James Chugg was the purchaser.

At the foot of Hagginton Hill, both North Lee Farm and the Linhey and out-buildings opposite can be clearly seen as well as Middle Lee Farm in the distance. At the top of the picture, Black's Farm and outbuildings can be seen. The building showing at the top of Hagginton Hill [top right] is probably 'Grattons'.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2010
e-mail: tombartlett44@hotmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 124

The contribution for this issue is unprecedented. Postcards from previous articles have been used, but as they date back to issues in 1989/90, there will be many people to whom they are new!

This winter has played havoc with many of our local roads, but of course they were not always tarmaced and smooth. In the early 1900's, they were just made of compacted stones as these pictures show.

The first is a Garratt postcard c1904 showing Pitt Hill with Fuchsia Cottage on the right and the steps leading up to the old Post Office on the left. The first building on the left is where the Bassetts of Watermouth stabled their coach and horses whilst attending Sunday Service at St. Peter's Church.

The knife-sharpening barrow, outside The Globe, belonged to Jim Glass who would go round from village to village, spending one or two days sharpening knives, scythes, scissors, etc. At night he would doss down with Sam Harding's horses at the blacksmith's, next to the school. There he would be warm!

The second picture is another Garratt postcard of the same date and shows members of the Street family on the unmade lane at Wood Park, with the cottages Riversdale, Brookvale and Woodvale.

As and when these roads needed maintenance, large stones and rocks would be brought in, probably from the quarry at Harper's Mill in the Sterridge Valley. They would be broken into smaller, suitably sized stones by men employed as 'stone crackers'. A steam driven traction engine would then be used to roll the stones into the road, leaving a relatively hard but dusty surface.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2010
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 123

St. Peter's Church and the Manor Hall

This photographic postcard published around 1920-1921 by the Photochrom Company Limited of Tunbridge Wells, shows St. Peter's church, the Manor Hall, Tower Cottage and part of the thatched roof of Bessemer Thatch.

At first glance, the picture is dominated by a huge tree apparently growing in the churchyard and seemingly almost ninety foot in height! The yew tree near the entrance path is still there today and with its bright red berries has provided food for many wild birds over the years. The 'Elizabethan' Manor House, now the Penn Curzon Room and Mens' Institute [snooker] Room shows a door on the left of the east facing wall and on the right an ivy clad wall where the present entrance door is. Part of the Manor Hall, built 1913-14 can also be seen. Over its porch was a large gas lamp, very similar to the one over the Lych Gate at that time.

These gas lamps were shown in Views No. 27 and 29 in the Newsletters of February and June 1994.

Beyond the church, there is also a complete absence of houses on the eastern side of Barton Lane.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2010
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 122
Caravans at Watermouth

This month I have chosen 'Caravans at Watermouth' The first of these two real photographic postcards shows these caravans taken c1955-60. In addition to the long line of static 'vans, a number of private ones can be seen - one in the foreground and two or three further down the field. I imagine the picture was taken in September, as the open field shows grass cut and formed into small stooks. When dried, this would be collected up as hay and stored for food and bedding for cattle over the winter months. Note the almost forest of trees beyond and above what was termed 'Big Meadow'.

The second postcard has been taken at about the same time from Napps Campsite and it gives a clear view of the whole of Watermouth, looking west-wards. Part of the roof of Watermouth Castle can be seen on the left, the long line of static caravans can be seen forming a semi-circle ending towards the harbour and the long building by the Cove and Caves can be seen in the centre.

Following my request for information on the 'Berrynarbor in the Snow' picture in article No. 121, I should like to thank Jenny Taylor [now living in France], Songbird and Peter Newell for responding.

Jenny says: "The moon gate is in the garden of 9 Goosewell and was built by Edith Rumley's husband, Les. Edith was a keen photographer. They lived there from the '50's until the early '80's. They were there when I moved there in 1981, but Pete Newell can probably give you better dates. Edith was a member of the Women's Institute, with her sister Florrie Rendell, also with her husband Les, who lived at 7 Goosewell. As far as I know, the gate still exists but I am not sure about the bird/snow bath."

"Les and Edith Rumley lived at Goosewell [where Pete Newell lives]. As I recall, Les was in the army and took a course in building when he came out. When we moved here he was working for Watermouth Caves on the maintenance and father and myself worked with him there for many years. The arch is either one he built in his garden, or the one at the Caves he built. As I recall, his son Brian used to run a speed boat over to Broadsands for the caves. This was when a concrete and steel fence was put at the bottom of Broadsands steps . . . the locals duly removed it. Hope this helps - it was a long time ago so some of the facts I have given may not be exactly to the letter!" Songbird

"With reference to the WI postcard taken by Edith Rumley, I can tell you exactly where it was taken from! We moved into Meadowsweet, 9 Goosewell, in 1980, previously occupied by Edith and Les Rumley. We moved in partly due to that view from the garden, although when we moved in the hedgerow was somewhat taller [and it was not quite so snowy!] The garden has changed a large amount, with the collapse of the circulate structure which was built of roof tiles. Fortunately, we realised its lack of security before it fell on one of our family!" Pete N.

So we now have no doubt at all as to where the picture was taken or who Mrs. Rumley was.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2009
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

Marlene has told me:

"Mr. and Mrs. Rumley lived at Goosewell, just a door away from her sister and her husband. Mrs. Rumley was a trained dressmaker and her work was of a very high standard. In fact, Mrs. Rumley made my wedding dress and bridesmaids' dresses in 1961. When my daughter Tracey was born in 1963, she took the skirt and made the christening gown and it has been used for the christenings of all my children and grandchildren to date.

"The donkeys and horses that were said to be buried in the field, were ones that were worked at the lime kilns out on the old coast road."

Ed.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 121

For this issue I have chosen a postcard entitled 'Berrynarbor in Snow'. This relatively modern postcard has been published by the Devon Federation of Women's Institutes as a 12-month tear-off postcard calendar, some time prior to 1988.

We are informed that the photograph has been taken by a Mrs. E Rumley of Berrynarbor W.I. To date I have been unable to find out where the photograph was taken or any information about Mrs. Rumley.

I imagine it may have been taken from somewhere up Barton Lane or Goosewell, as the view appears to be looking towards the sea. The picture is quite striking as the garden has not only a stone or concrete bird bath [snow bath!], but also a stone or concrete 'moon gate', similar to the ones seen in Bermuda.

Can anyone please throw some light on the location of this postcard or on Mrs. Rumley? The card was sent from Honiton on the 7th March 1988 to Luton in Bedfordshire.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2009
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 120

Watermouth Harbour and the Martello [Shaped] Tower

The two views of Watermouth Harbour and Headland, nos. 84 and 157, were both taken by William Garrett.

The first around 1919 or earlier shows the almost enclosed harbour at high tide with two sea-going ketches and what appears to be a sailing dinghy. Gerald Walters of Combe Martin informs me that the ketches were the 'Olive and Mary' and 'Lady of the Isles'. Note that at the time there is no development of the harbour and headland at all.

The second and later picture shows two sailing ketches, but the one on the left is already being dismantled and broken up. A large tent or marquee can be seen and this was probably for one of the Boys' Brigade Camps, which were often held at Watermouth [see View No. 97, October 2005].

Note the Martello shaped tower which appears in both pictures. This must surely be the oldest surviving building or structure at Watermouth. Indeed, the Reverend John Swete, [1752-1821], producer of 'The Illustrated Journals: Travel in Georgian Devon' between 1789 and 1800, refers to the structure as follows:

"The restrospective view of Watermouth as I ascended the northern side of a steep hill was extremely pleasing - the Cove, and the rocky headland were beheld in high perfection, and the little Edifice about midway on the latter [now seen sideaway], exhibited its Portico more conspicuously than it had done when viewed from the House. I had conceived this Building which wore the semblance of a Grecian temple, to have been erected for the purpose of recreation, imagining that it had a room which commanded the whole extent of Sea, and all the Beauties which were comprised within the little circle of Watermouth; in this however I was wholly mistaken, for I learnt from the Servant, that it was a Dove house and had been erected as an object merely from the House."

This picture, again showing the tower, is an artistic view entitled 'Watermouth seat of [blank] Davie Esq.' is dated 1796, well before the construction of today's Watermouth Castle, which was commenced in 1820 and completed in 1840.

My father, Thomas L. Bartlett, B.A., M.B.O.U. [Member of the British Ornithological Union] was both a historian and ornithologist and until his death in 1973 was the Chairman of the Selborne Society and Editor of the Selborne Magazine. The Selborne Society, founded in 1885, existed at that time : to perpetuate the memory of Gilbert White; to protect places of interest and natural beauty; to conserve Britain's heritage of wild birds, animals and plants; to encourage the study of Natural History and to campaign for small Educational Sanctuaries near built-up areas.

In the Summer 1968 issue of the Selborne Magazine, my father wrote:

"Since 1905, when from the top of the old Lorna Doone coach I saw a great Red Deer silhouetted against a sunset sky, I have traversed the whole North Devon coast. To that coast after Arctic wanderings, one of my sons has now returned to live whilst another, who has studied wild life and taught school children in the Falklands, regularly brings his young family to explore the caves at Watermouth and play on the sandy beaches south of Ilfracombe. Soon these youngsters will be wanting to range northwards towards Lynton to see where their parents pitched their tents under Buzzards' nests and found at least one Dipper's nest each year along the Lyn. I know from my own observations and from 'Ilfracombe Flora and Fauna' published in 1946 that during the last two decades Buzzards, Dippers and other interesting land birds along this coast have been too rapidly decreasing. I am also wondering what birds, what paths and what nature study facilities for school children will be available along that coast in the seventies and eighties.

"Accordingly after studying the 'Outline Development Plan for the Coastal Strip, Ilfracombe to Combe Martin' displayed at the County Hall, Exeter, I have suggested that the County Planning and Education authorities should consider registering the Tower illustrated on the cover of this magazine and a few acres round it not only as a site of outstanding natural beauty but as one of Special Scientific Interest which could be adapted as a field centre, observatory and museum, to give school children and others a greater interest in Devon's natural history and a deeper concern about its conservation. T.L.B."

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, August 2009
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 119

This month I have chosen a William Garratt real photograph postcard, No. 89, showing a large part of the central village and Hagginton Hill.

This picture was taken by Garratt some time between 1915 and 1925, from the steep field belonging to the Richards' Family of Moules Farm. The impressive tower of St. Peter's stands proudly out on the right, beyond which can be seen the roof of Tower Cottage [51 The Village], the Penn-Curzon Room and the Berrynarbor Men's Institute Room. Also pictured are The Old Court and the Congregational Chapel.

In the foreground - from the right - Hill Crest [No. 55] can be seen and the row of cottages, followed by Dunchideock [No. 54]. A thatched Bessemer Thatch is followed by all the cottages on both sides of Pitt Hill, including The Lodge. On the left is North Lee Farm, at the foot of Hagginton Hill, which stretches with its cottages right up to Grattons at the top right of the picture. Note the large gaps between the properties on the hill, which have now largely been filled in with further cottages and houses.

May I once more appeal for information or pictures of Berrydown Chapel, particularly if you ever attended a service or function there? My thanks to Caroline Verney in the last Newsletter for getting in touch with me was very sad as she had recently died. If you have any information, please do contact me on [01271] 883408.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, June 2009
tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 118

This month I have chosen three photographic postcards from my collection in the hope that some of our senior Berrynarbor villagers may be able to identify one or two of the people shown!

The first, and oldest picture, shows a gathering of adults and children in the Berrynarbor Chapel taken, I believe, between 1925 and 1935. It appears to be quite an important event as apart from, presumably, the local minister on the stage, a further two ministers can be seen on the left. Note the potted palms and aspidistra on the tables and the bouquet of flowers, which I presume has just been presented by the young girl on the left of the minister's wife. I wonder if the cross on the wrapping signifies the British Red Cross and there is a nurse [matron] standing on the right?

The second has been taken in the Manor Hall and is the 'Welcome Home' Social held in 1946. Note the Victory 'V' sign above the stage and 'Long Live the King'. The Union flags, with the picture of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, are in the centre.

The third and last picture is of a Children's Christmas Party, again in the Manor Hall, and taken around 1946-1950 by the Ilfracombe Photographers, Lee & Sons of 24 High Street. Depending on the date taken, it may include some of the many evacuees living in Berrynarbor at the time.

Can you put names to anyone in any of the pictures? If you can, I should love to hear from you, by telephone, letter or e-mail.

Finally, can I again appeal for information or pictures of Berrydown Chapel, particularly if you ever attended a service or function there? In the meantime, my thanks to John Clark, Sheila Brain and Caroline Verney for getting in touch. If you can help, please do contact me [883408].

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 117

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2009
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 116

BERRYNARBOR VILLAGE

This month I have chosen a postcard taken and published by F. Frith & Co., Ltd. of Reigate towards the end of 1939. The postcard is numbered 89036 and shows Pitt Hill with the Manor Stores, now in 2008 known as Flowerdew Cottage, on the left. Following further down is the original single storey cottage opposite the entrance to the Globe, completely transformed by Charlie Layton in the late 1950's and now known as Blue Mist. Then there is the series of cottages with the roof of Langleigh [Boarding] House just showing.

On the right is the window of Dormer Cottage [Miss Muffets], the gardens of Whitley Cottage and Corfe Cottage before the 'TEAS' sign for The Globe Public House. Finally on the right, is the roof and chimneys of Fuchsia Cottage.

Note the girl sitting outside the Manor Stores and the Cadbury's Chocolate Bar dispenser, as well as the interestingly shaped windows, with the top glass panels almost chapel-like. Also of note is the large telephone pole outside The Globe with over 20 isolated cables. The postcard itself was sent in the 1940's from Ilfracombe to a lady in Torquay and posted with a King George VI green 1 1/2d and an orange 1/2d stamp.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2008
E-Mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 115

Lower Town, Berrynarbor

For this issue, and because of holidays, I have chosen four different postcards showing 'Lower Town' or 'Silver Street', Berrynarbor.

The first card, a photograph taken by W. Garratt about 1925 shows the Post Office and Shop No. 62, Brookside No. 63, No. 61 Betty Brooks, and the two cottages, Nos. 60 and 45 [the nearest became a butcher's shop] and part of Berrynarbor School.

The second card is photographed and printed by E.A. Sweetman of Tunbridge Wells c1926 and was sent to some in Swimbridge in 1931l. This card shows part of the garden of Brookside, the Post Office and Shop, as well as St. Peter's Church and Claude's Dairy, with opposite the corner of Gable Cottage, the roof of the School and the wall of No. 61, Betty Brooks's house.

This photographic card was published by Raphael Tuck & Sons Ltd. and again shows Brookside, the Post Office and Shop and St. Peter's Church. It was taken around 1939 and the card is actually postmarked 'Ilfracombe 1939' and was sent to someone in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire.

Lastly, another Sweetman postcard of around 1950 showing the same buildings as before, but with two cars, possibly of 1939 vintage, and several villagers or visitors. I felt these views of our previous shop and post office were apt for this issue. The new Shop was opened by District Councillor Yvette Gubb on Friday, 30th August, on an actual sunny day!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2008
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 114

BERRYNARBOR TRAILER PARK , STERRIDGE VALLEY

F. Frith & Co. Ltd. of Reigate produced this Multi-View postcard. This particular postcard has a postmark of 5th August 1960 and was sent to an address in Aberdeen, Scotland. The message on the reverse side reads: "Dear Both, This is where we are, a couple of miles from Ilfracombe. Weather improving steadily". A message that could well be written this year!

©Copyright The Francis Frith Collection

I particularly like this card as it gives five dated views of the Berrynarbor Trailer Park and shows how much it has changed. For those fortunate enough to attend and visit the Open Gardens in the Sterridge Valley in June, they were able to see that the Trailer Park has now become a thriving and almost separate community within our village. Indeed, one can only have admiration for the way the properties and gardens are maintained and not a caravan in site! I actually have a total of twelve separate postcards of the Trailer Park, all published by Friths from around the same period of time, 1957.

Mrs. Smith and her son, Paul, purchased the land some time prior to 1952 and developed the site from around that time, Coronation Year. They steadily built it up and sold it to Ian and Simon Kemp on the 1st May 1980 as a site with a mixture of caravans and static caravans, and a Licence for up to 15 tents.

The Kemp's worked hard and built the site up further and around 1983 Simon bought a Fire Engine which attracted a great deal of attention being kept on the site. By the time they sold the business to Paul and Teresa Crockett, they had obtained permission for about 40 Residential Homes. Sadly, on selling the site, Simon had to dispose of his Fire Engine which went all the way "across the water" to Swansea in Wales.

Paul and Teresa took over from Ian and Simon back in October 1998 - how time flies! At that time there were just six Residential Homes. This has now increased to thirty-three and five Holiday Lodges, all with full services provision, other than gas, which has never reached the Valley. Paul and Teresa are particularly proud that The Park now participates in the David Bellamy Conservation Award Scheme.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2008
E-Mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 113

Briary Cave - Views at Ilfracombe III

The billboard on the coach reads "Sterrage Valley by the New Barnstaple Road Through the Woods returning via Berrynarbor & Watermouth Castle At 2.30pm Return Fare 2/6".

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2008
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 112

'Berrinarbor'

A.H. Hawke of Helston, Cornwall, took this fine photographic view of the centre of our village around 1929-30. It shows a completely thatched Bessemer Thatch, Dormer Cottage [Miss Muffet's], the church steps and Pitt Hill with Fuchsia Cottage.

 

'Arrived about 3 o'clock, lovely voyage. This is our cottage, there are about 10 rooms in it, all lovely and clean and comfy.'

Those of you who have been reading my articles for some time will remember that in View 65 I wrote all about the fire at Bessemer Thatch on the 5th May 1937, when all the thatched roof and much of the house was destroyed. At that time it was owned by Canon Jolly and the damage was estimated at nearly £1,000. It was said that the fire had been caused by a spark from a nearby chimney. Canon Jolly remained the owner right up until his death in 1972.

Alfred Herbert Hawke was a well-known and highly acclaimed photographer and postcard publisher. He carried out his business from a studio and shop in Meneage Street, Helston, and travelled all over Cornwall, North Devon and Exmoor, taking photographs of villages and seaside resorts. I have, probably, hundreds of his cards and the postmarks vary from 1920 [Clovelly] up to the late 1930's. He was not known to take photographs of large towns or cities, or even inland villages other than a few on Exmoor, like Brendon, Oare and Rockford. He was well known as the photographer for the Helston Flurry [Flora] Dance and Padstow Hobby Hoss Day; also of elections, wrecks, fires, hotels and country houses! Known as some of his earliest pictures, are those of the visit by the Lord Mayor Treloar of London to the Flora Day and St. Keverne in 1907, and of the new Helston fire engine in 1910. I have twenty different postcards of Berrynarbor and Watermouth with postmarks ranging from 1928. I also have a further 27 of Combe Martin, with postmarks dating from 1928 onwards.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2008
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 111

St. Peter's Church, Berrynarbor

The postcard I have chosen this month is a sketch of St. Peter's Church by the artist Harley Miller. Harley Miller had his pen and ink sketches reproduced as postcards by Harvey Barton, the postcard publishers of Bristol. I believe he came to the village around 1971-1973, and as a result, this card, and one of Ye Olde Globe and looking down Pitt Hill, were published. Through the internet and Google, I have managed to contact Harley Miller, who now lives up in the Scottish Highlands. He was born in Surrey in 1934 and moved, around 1961, down to Sidmouth, Devon, where he worked as an architect and artist. As the latter, he had commissions with the South West National Trust and produced many pictures for them. In 1971, in partnership with the Maritime Trust, Harley published a Maritime Calendar featuring twelve fine line drawings of their collection of historic ships and boats and through this work was introduced to the Bristol publishers Harvey Barton, who were so impressed with his work that they retained him for a period of approximately three years, 1971-1974, to give them the first opportunity to print any of his pictures as postcards. In 1974, Harley moved away from Sidmouth to Horning in Norfolk and three years later moved to the Scottish Highlands.

He told me how he would visit certain villages and towns and as well as producing a rough sketch, would also take a photograph, with an old black and white camera, and then produce the true sketch in his studio.

I, myself, have eight of his postcards, six printed by Harvey Barton of Bristol and two of The Bowd Inn, near Sidmouth, by Sydney Lee [Exeter] Limited. The other four cards in my collection show Exford [Crown Hotel, etc.], the Chichester Arms, Bishops Tawton, St. John the Baptist Church, Bishops Tawton and lastly the card above showing an old boat with 'YH89' on its bow.

From this particular card I worked out the 'YH' as being Yarmouth and fortunately someone has written on the message side: "Lydia Eva, Steam Herring Drifter, built Kings Lyn 1930, now at Great Yarmouth". Harley informed me that this postcard was reproduced from the 1972 Maritime Calendar. Anyone who has the opportunity to go on the internet can go on to Harley Miller's website www.harleymiller.com.

You will immediately realise what an accomplished artist he is and how from his base in Moray, he is encouraging fellow artists to fulfil their dreams through his personal mentoring and articles. He will also, on the 27th January, present a talk entitled 'A Proper Living from Your Art' at the Moray Arts Centre, Findhorn Bay.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2008
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 110

General View. Berrynarbor

This photographic postcard of Berrynarbor was published by Francis Frith & Co. Ltd. of Reigate, England. I find it particularly appropriate at this time when work has started on the building of our Community Shop in the car park on Castle Hill.

Whilst I believe the photograph was taken around 1960, the actual card was sent from Berrynarbor to Holt in Norfolk and has an Ilfracombe postmark of 21st August 1969. This picture shows Capel Cottage with a field opposite, which is where the car park is now. To the right we can see Moules Farm, which has been in the ownership of several generations of the Richards family. It must have been a particularly clear day, as part of the Welsh coast can be seen. There also appears to be a large number of mature trees, including those behind and to the side of Capel Cottage.

©Copyright The Francis Frith Collection

The writing on the reverse I found quite interesting: "Left Harrow at 9am and a good journey to Devon by 5pm, lovely countryside, we are right down in the Sterridge Valley. Caravan very nice, everything supplied, stands in orchard with stream at the bottom. Car did very well, but a knock started near back wheel, going in garage tomorrow. Have just climbed 200 steps from beach. Love M.B.J.S. & C."

We can see that it had taken 8 hours to cover the 200 odd miles from North West London and the beach they had visited had been Broadsands. Is there anyone who can give me a date as to when the picture had been taken?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2007
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Silver Street, Berrynarbor, View 109

Helen C. Armstead drew this sketch of Silver Street, Berrynarbor, just one of four sketches she drew which were reproduced as plain back postcards in 1982, and sold from the Manor Stores for several years. Helen was married before the Second World War and lived in Sussex. Sadly, her husband died at Dunkirk. She was left alone to bring up her young son, Richard, and they moved to Court Cottage, Berrynarbor. She continued to live there until the late '90's when with failing health she moved to a residential home in Lynton and then to Heanton, where she died on the 18th May 2002. Very sadly she outlived both her son Richard and grandson, William.

My photograph shows Helen outside her beloved Court Cottage, together with her golden Labrador Bonnie.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2007
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

'Berrynarbour' - View 108

This picture of the village taken by Francis Frith around 1892 must be one of the earliest photographs of Berrynarbor and below I point out why I also think it is one of the most interesting. In the centre, note how No. 63 Silver Street, Brookside, is thatched, as is Jacobswell on the right and Bessemer Thatch on the left. Jacobswell, just to the west of Hillcrest [No. 55], was at a much later date turned into the small row of cottages now known as Ferndale, Jacobs Well and The Olives - all slated. On the corner is No. 54, now known as Dunchideock which was where Claude Richards lived and had his dairy.

The National School building can be seen clearly, complete with its bell hanging from the small archway constructed on the roof. Bessemer Thatch at that time consisted of three separate cottages - Nos. 47, 48 and 49 - with Grey Gables on the corner [No. 50]. Nearly all the cottages had their own piggeries and hen houses, plainly visible at the back of Bessemer Thatch.

Most of the available land was cultivated, shown in front and behind the cottages on Hagginton Hill. The photograph must have been taken during the winter months as the very large trees are all without leaves. The height of the trees around the Church of St. Peter must be at least 50' or 60' knowing the height of the tower. Below the church tower, No. 51 - Tower Cottage, can be seen with chimneys at either end of the roof. The Manor House, now the Penn Curzon Room and Men's Institute can be seen but, of course, no Manor Hall since it was not built until 1913-14. The Old Court and Chapel are clearly visible, as is the Globe Public House, complete with its lime washed retaining wall on to Pitt Hill.

Hagginton Hill at this time shows a great space between the lower and higher group of cottages, with Grattons standing on its own at the top.

Finally, I have been asked to enquire for information about a wrought iron sign of BERRYNARBOR which is supposed to have been made by Sam Harding, Blacksmith. I am led to believe that the sign was seen, even after the Second World War, and I would appreciate any information. Thanks.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2007
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

James Norman "Reuben Dale" - View 107

James Norman, born in Combe Martin in 1844, became famous through the publication of The Mighty Atom by Marie Corelli, whose books in the late 1800's sold by the million.

Whilst writing The Mighty Atom, Marie Corelli resided at 'Waverly' near the Seaside and is said to have also resided at The Pack of Cards and even had a room there named after her.

Her home residence was Mason Croft, Stratford-on-Avon, where she died in 1924. Quite eccentric, she had brought from Venice an exotic gondola, complete with gondoliers, and was often to be seen being rowed along the River Avon near her home.

Far right - James Norman on the path to Combe Martin Church

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Combe Martin from Barnstaple Road, View 106

This is a very interesting "Peacock" Series post card produced by the Pictorial Stationery Co. Ltd. of London and printed in Saxony [Germany] around 1904-08. In the foreground, the limestone workings known as 'Berry Quarry" can clearly be seen. This quarry was worked from around 1840 until 1916 and the limestone was mined and then transported on tramways. The tramway lines are just visible on the card - those on the left running to the 'spoil' or waste heaps, and one to the right ending at the lime kiln, visible to the left of the cottage or farmhouse on the right. Coal [culm] would be shipped from South Wales to Combe Martin harbour, where it would be unloaded onto horse and carts and taken to the many limekilns in the village. In the limekilns, layers of local-mined limestone would be covered with layers of the Welsh 'culm' and then set alight and roasted to slake the lime which was then collected by the local farmers to 'sweeten' their acid soils and increase yields significantly. This card also clearly demonstrates just how long the High Street is, with houses on either side of it.

Tom Barlett
Tower Cottage, March 2007
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Mill Park Lake, View 105

This very early picture of the lake at Mill Park was taken by A.J. Vince around 1900 and numbered V531. There are few pictures taken of this lake/pond and this photographic post card is extremely rare, this being the only such picture that I know of.

A.J. Vince has taken this picture from the north end looking toward the village and with no buildings in sight gives us a truly atmospheric and rural picture.

The final photograph shows Major Williams, flanked by 'Sister' in the long jacket and Iris Hibbert. Both photographs, I believe, have been taken in 1915-16 when Watermouth Castle was requisitioned as a convalescent hospital for army officers and where Iris served as just one of several nurses with Captain James in charge.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2007
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 104

Watermouth Beach

The first view, The Beach Smallmouth, was probably originally photographed by W.S.Woods the Bamstaple photographer and produced by The Pictorial Stationery Co. Ltd., London back in 1906-7 as a black printed postcard No.6350. This version is published as a photographic postcard and has a date on the back of July-August 1920. The number of rowing boats shown gives some indication of just how popular the caves and beach were at the turn of the last century. Visitors would pay a toll of 1d or 2d to enter the caves and beach and would be brought out to Watermouth by coach and horses, later by charabancs. The boatmen and their boats would take visitors over to Broadsands Beach and for trips to Combe Martin and around the Bay.

In the background is the formidable but breathtaking sight of Little and Great Hangman. Note the lady on the left with her long dress down to her ankles and a foiled umbrella to shade herself from the sun and wearing a large brimmed hat with artificial flowers on top, as any lady would in those times!

The second view is identical but taken over half a century later around 1958, numbered 2166 and published by Dearden & Wade of Bournemouth. It is likely that this picture was taken in July or August and shows a very busy Watermouth Beach [Smallmouth Cove] with children clambering over the rocks in every direction. Note the old fashioned knitted woollen swimming costumes being worn and the lack of almost any beach chairs or windbreaks.

The other two postcards, both published by J. Valentine & Sons and originally with the Valentine's number of 18703, date back to c1905. You will immediately notice in the second of these two cards that three sailing boats have been added as well as a small rowing boat/dinghy. The latter card has been given a different number by Valentine's and was sent in June 1938. So don't always believe what you see on a postcard! Frith's also often updated their postcards by removing horses and carriages and inserting cars and differently dressed people.

The small beach at the high tide end of Smallmouth Cove became enclosed shortly before or just after the Second World War by the building of a wall across the beach. This was to give not only a protected and safe beach but ensured that a pool was present at all times with a change of seawater at every high tide.

Wishing you all a great festive Christmas and a healthy New Year 2007.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 103

The Lees, Berrynarbor

The first view of The Lees was published by E.A. Sweetman & Sons Ltd. of Tunbridge Wells. The photographic postcard, postmarked the 30th May 1953, was sent by *Harry Whapple to a Miss W. Whapple, living in Coventry. On the left are the outbuildings and barn for South Lee Farm. In the centre is Glen Lee and on the right Middle Lee Farm. It is interesting to note that the very steep field behind Middle Lee is ploughed and probably being used to grow vegetables and potatoes following on from the Second World War.

The second view was published in both sepia and colour versions by Harvey Barton around 1955 and in the case of the coloured version, white clouds have been inserted into the view to enhance it. The first thing that anyone who knows Berrynarbor will notice is that there has been very little change in the buildings and scenery shown, and for that we should all be very thankful.

Both Sweetman and Harvey Barton published postcards depicting villages and towns all over England. The earliest Sweetman postcards I have date back to the mid-1920's, whilst Harvey Barton postcards date back to 1907.

Sadly, I had no response to the questions posed by me in the August Newsletter but if this is an oversight, please do contact me or the Editor.

I finish with the following piece of gossip from over 100 years ago which I found in the Ilfracombe Chronicle:

"The Ilfracombe Chronicle and North Devon News, Saturday, July 11, 1896 GOSSIP OF THE TOWN I should think the people of Berrynarbor have reason to be pleased with the work of the Parish Council. The effects of their labours for the first twelve months have been seen in the establishment of a daily delivery of letters in the village, where there was formerly a delivery three days a week; the carriage of letters to outlying farms every other day, an entirely new departure; and the opening of a money order and savings bank in connection with the local post office. Last, but not least, the proper apportionment of some charity funds has been sanctioned by the Commisioners. According to my information, the income derivable from a certain charity should have been divided between the Church and the poor, but for the last 60 years the latter's portion has found its way into coffers of the former. When the Parish Council came on the scene, Mr. Besley, who was one of its members, continually pegged away at the charity question, with the object of securing the proper payment of the amount. The case has been brought before the Charity Commissioners, who, I hear, have upheld the view of the Council. The amount is not a large one; but nevertheless the result is satisfactory. Taking all these things together, the Berrynarbor Parish Council has justified its existence. The parish rate has not exceeded a halfpenny in the £."

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

Editor's Note: [and with thanks to Jan Gammon for her confirmation}

When we moved here in 1970, we had the pleasure of meeting Harry Whapple, or 'Whappy' as he was known. He lived in Coventry with his sister but was a regular visitor, spending all his summers here in Berrynarbor, first with 'Parky Smith' at Middle Lee Farm and latterly with the Altree family at Homeleigh. His last visit here before his death was in the summer of 1973.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 102

For this issue I have chosen a 'part mystery' photographic postcard in the hope that one of our more senior residents might be able to identify where the picture was taken and some of the people shown. The postcard itself dates from somewhere between 1903 and 1906.

1. The postcard was written by Miss Mary Jane Huxtable, who appears on the extreme right of the picture, dressed as a bridesmaid.
2. Her sister, Miss ? Huxtable, is the bride.
3. The marriage took place, presumably at Berrynarbor Church, on the 16th March, and between the years 1903-6 inclusive
4. The sender's address on the card is: Hillside Cottage, Barton Lane, Berry Narbor.
5. The writer, Mary Jane Huxtable, married Arthur John Snell of Capel Cottage on Saturday, 7th February 1907 in St. Peter's Church.
6. Arthur John Snell was the eldest of four children brought up by their widowed mother from around 1903-1904.
7. Arthur's brother and sisters were Nelly, Walter and Mabel Snell.
8. Mrs. Snell used to take in the washing for the Rev. Reginald and Mrs. Churchill.

Finally, the undated message on the reverse side of the card reads:

"Dear Hilda

I am sending you another PC. for your collection hope you will like it. I suppose you wont be able to find anyone you know there. It was taken the day my sister was married the 16th of last March. Well dear how are you all rubbing along. I wish you would drop me a P.Card occasionally. My album is getting on fine, have you got one yet. I will send you some views of Ilfracombe when you have, if you will let me know. How is that saucy little Jess getting on, big now. It is Sunday night now and I have just come from Mrs. Snell's where I most times spend my Sunday evenings. Mrs. Snell has had a very bad cold for a week but getting a bit better now. The weather is dreadful here and the mud is something like it was in the lane at Wiveliscombe. With love to you all M.J.H."

It would be lovely if anyone can help with further information relating to this beautiful picture.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

 

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 101

The first photograph (above) was taken by me around 1990. The second picture (below), by Garratt, shows the village and Chapel in about 1904. The original chapel was built about 1841, but some years later it was found to be unsafe and the present building was then built in 1881 with funds provided by Ilfracombe Congregational Church.

This leads me to an article that appeared on page 5 of the Ilfracombe Chronicle, one hundred years ago, dated 9th June 1906.

BERRYNARBOR CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH

On Friday last, in the course of a Mission Tour, the Rev. C. Silvester Horne, M.A. of London, and J.D. Jones, M.A., of Bournemouth, visited this Church. A large congregation assembled, including a number of friends from Ilfracombe. After prayer by Dr. Stevens, Mr. Tribe, of Bristol, who presided, said he had spent a delightful week with his friends visiting the churches in North Devon, they were interested to find such nice village churches, and large congregations to welcome them throughout their tour. The speeches touched on many important matters in Free Church Life; the eloquent and earnest words of both speaks made a deep impression and was a season of great inspiration. At the close of the meeting the Pastor returned thanks on behalf of the church.

On Sunday last the anniversary of the church was held, Mr. J.P. Verney, J.P., preached two excellent sermons, the services were much enjoyed. On Whit Monday, tea was provided, successfully arranged by Messrs. W. Ley, J. Bowden, Jos. Bowden. The following ladies presided at the tables: Mesdames Huxtable, Bowden, jun., Slee, Harding, Jones and Richards. A public meeting followed, presided over by Mr. Foyster, of Ilfracombe, practical and earnest addresses were delivered by the Rev. T. Dixon, Dr. Stevens, and Rev. F.G. Walker.

The pastor at the close apologised for Mr. H.J. Bobbett who was unable to be present, and thanked all the friends who had so kindly assisted them on Sunday, and at the meeting. Miss Barnett presided at the organ.

For further information on the Chapel, please refer to my article, View No. 26 in the December 1993 issue of Newsletter No. 27, pages 21-23.

Also in the Ilfracombe Chronicle, there is a record of the Wreck of H.M.S. Montagu which, in thick fog on the 30th May 1906, had struck the Shutter Rock on Lundy Island. H.M.S. Montagu was a battleship, built at Devonport in 1903 at the then colossal cost of £1 1/4 million, weighing 14,000 tons and with a crew of 750!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 100

The Harbour, Watermouth

This month I have chosen two early views of Watermouth Harbour. The first published by W.H. Smith & Sons under their Kingsway Real Photo Series would have been taken around 1908-1910 and been sold in their shop in Ilfracombe High Street, nearly opposite where Turton's the Butcher is today. This card is postmarked 1910 and sent to Master C. Millman of St. James' Place, Ilfracombe and the message reads: "Dear Claude, How is your tongue to-day? Hope you have not eaten it all yet, are you tired of it. Love Minnie." The sailing brig or ketch shown could have belonged to Squire Basset and note how the anchor chains are tied to the large marker posts and that it is tied down in all directions.

The second view, postmarked August 1931, was published by Pelham under their Real Photo Series and is numbered 8291. There is quite some activity taking place and particularly note the 'BE20' painted on the large dinghy/fishing boat, indicating that it was registered at Barnstaple, viz first and last letters. Today, the fishing vessels are registered at Bideford and have 'BD' markings.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

Congratulations Tom on reaching your 100! Although this is 'Old Berrynarbor No. 100', Tom has in fact contributed to every single issue of our Newsletter and I am sure I speak for everyone when I say a very big thank you.

Ed.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 99

For this Centenary Newsletter I have looked up papers from the Ilfracombe Chronicle 100 years ago, from which to reprint articles of interest to us all in Berrynarbor, and I hope you enjoy reading them.

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Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2006
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

View No. 98

For this Christmas Newsletter, I have chosen two cards with festive cheer in mind. The first conveying Christmas Greetings depicts Briary Cave at Watermouth. Published by Twiss Bros., Ilfracombe, in 1904, it is postmarked 'Ilfracombe, December 24th 1907 6.45 p.m.'

The post was so good and prompt in those days that it would still have been delivered to Putney Heath in London on Christmas Day! It should be remembered that in the early 1900's, visitors often made special visits to the several large caves at Watermouth, paying one or two pence [1d or 2d] for the privilege.

The second card shows Sandy Bay and the Hangman Hills and wishes the receiver 'a Bright and Happy New Year'. The card was published by The Pictorial Stationery Co. Ltd., London, and printed in Saxony around 1904. It was sent by 'Arthur' from Barnstaple at 7.15 p.m., December 31st 1905 to a Wm. Vickery living at Coombeshead, Arlington, and would have been delivered first post on New Year's Day 1906.

For my part I should like to wish everyone the Seasons Greetings and a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2005
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

P.S. Bird watching has been a real pleasure and we have had regular visits to our garden of nuthatches and a blackckap has been feeding on the seeds of the palm trees.

47

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Edition 98, October 2005

OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor C.L.B. - View No. 97

In 1913, the annual Whitsun Camp of the North Devon Battalion of the Church Lads' Brigade was held at Berrynarbor by kind permission of Mrs. Basset of Watermouth Castle. The training extended from Saturday, 10th May until Wednesday evening, 14th May, but until the Monday the weather had been dreadful.

The first picture shows a group of Church Lads, whilst the second shows the Officers and Clergy in front of the tents, with the harbour in the background.

The main body of Church Lads, numbering approximately 100, arrived about 8.00 p.m. on the Saturday. The Battalion was under the command of Col. Kindersley, the Commanding Officer of the Exeter Regiment of the C.L.B. The Camp Chaplain was our Rev. Churchill. Capt. P.E. Barnes was the Camp Correspondent and had been mainly responsible for the many arrangements necessary for setting up such a large camp. Sadly, due to the inclement weather and difficulties in approaching the camp field, it had taken the pioneer party, under Sgt. Major Dennis, over two hours to get the large van transporting the Barnstaple and Bideford Companies into the field, and this with the help of five horses and twenty men! It was 10.30 p.m. before the large marquee was erected and after a stormy night, a cyclone at breakfast-time nearly demolished it.

The programme for Sunday was Reveille at 5.30 a.m. and at 7 o'clock a special celebration of Holy Communion for the Brigade at Berrynarbor Church. The Battalion paraded at our church at 11.00 a.m. and 6.30 p.m., and on each occasion our church was crowded. Ernest and practical sermons were preached by the Rev. Churchill and Capt. Rev. P.E. Barnes.

The 'Grand Field Day' on Whit Monday followed the following programme:

Tea was provided for visitors during the afternoon and among those present were Mrs. Penn-Curzon [Watermouth Castle], Mrs. Chichester, Major and Mrs. Manning and the Reverends Johnson, Hodgson, Wallington, Robinson, Trelawney Ross and Munford.

It is interesting to note that ladies and gentlemen from Berrynarbor, with Miss Bray as accompanist, entertained the Lads in the marquee to a sing-song at 9.00 p.m.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor Village - View No. 96

This time I have taken two of William Garratt's photographic postcards of almost the same view of our village. The earlier picture, No. 14, was taken around 1904, whilst the later picture, No. 91, was taken around the mid-1920's.

 

I shall point out the changes I have noted, working down the picture from left to right. Please note the small chimney at the southeast end of the church, which appears in both pictures. The chimney was necessary as the area within the church with semi-enclosed pews for the Watermouth Castle Bassett family, was heated by a small stove, and their entrance to the church can be seen under the right chancel window in the later picture.

1. In the first picture there is no Manor Hall - the Manor Hall was completed in 1914.
2. Bessemer Thatch is thatched in both pictures - the first shows pig sties/chicken houses whereas the second shows only garden.
3. In the first picture 'Ladywell' is thatched, but later it has been rebuilt to form 3 slated cottages.
4. The school bell is still hanging in both pictures.
5. The Post Office takes up the full area in the earlier picture, but in the second picture there is only the house and the post office out building.

Apart from the trees, I should welcome hearing of any other changes that you can see.

The original Post Office was, until the 1920's Watermouth Estate Sale, in Pitt Hill and so the building we now know as the Post Office became such after Lady Day in 1921. A full account of these changes was reviewed in Newsletters Nos. 41, 42 and 56.

My thanks to Ron Toms, Bill Huxtable and Ivy Richards for responding to my request about the square, dark structure in the field above High Trees. All were able to tell me that the mystery structure was a 'shippen' [cow house/cattle shed]. Ivy told me that after she first married Ivor on the 7th May 1932, she would go and watch him milking their two cows there. I should also like to thank Stanley Barnes for his kind words in a letter to Judie and through this newsletter ask if he has any old photographs or memories that could be used in a future issue?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2005
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor and Church - View No. 95

This sepia-tint postcard of Berrynarbor and Church was printed and published by Jarrold & Sons Ltd., of Norwich, around 1950, shortly after Birdswell Cottages Nos. 1 to 4 had been completed for Barnstaple Rural Council in 1948.

Ron and Gladys Toms moved into No. 4, the last to be completed by the builder, Gerald Goss of Combe Martin, in November 1948. Ron can remember moving from 16 Hagginton Hill with Gladys and little Raymond, who was then just two and a half years old. And, of course, Ron remains living there today. It is noticeable that each of the gardens for the cottages is well looked after and planted up with vegetables. To the left of the cottages in Birdswell Lane can be seen 'Prospect' bungalow, which had been built in 1930 by Vera Lewis's father. This had been built for John and Ada Ley who moved into it from Watermouth Cottage.

Further up Birdswell Lane is Thistle Dew' and behind these properties on the west and lower side of Barton Lane, 'Berrydale' and 'Berry Ridge' are in view.

On the higher east side the large bungalow 'High Trees' can be seen and this is where Reg and Ann Gosling have lived since 1961. 'High Trees' was built in 1935 and was originally named 'Pembroke Lodge' because of its clear view of the Pembroke coastline. To its right is 'Chatsworth', where Reg and Betty Davis and now their family have lived since the 1960's. The house was built by Jack Richards in 1931. The house was named 'Chatsworth' as this was near where Betty was born in Derbyshire.

I wonder if anyone can throw any light on the square, dark structure in the field above 'High Trees'?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2005
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor - View No. 94

This photographic postcard of Berrynarbor was taken from what is now the garden of The Haven, home to John and Marion Hood. As with View No. 93 [February Newsletter], this was taken by A.H. Hawke of Helston around 1928, and gives a good view of the village from the West.

On the left we have Rose Cottage, then known as No. 32 Duckpool, whilst in the foreground we have the two small cottages then known as Ellis Cottages, 30 and 31. From the extreme top left we have Court Cottage, then known as 53 The Village; part of Manor Cottage just behind the large and impressive Old Court, where Alfred Duchesne lived. Beyond Old Court can be seen the Manor Hall building comprising the Manor Hall and Men's Institute above the Penn-Curzon Room.

Standing out proudly we have St. Peter's Church with its beautiful tower with clock face, and to the right the Chapel and School House. The former and smaller chapel building built around 1841 became unsafe and so in 1881, Ilfracombe Congregational Church provided the financial backing for the building of a new Chapel and School Room. The Foundation Stone was laid by Thomas Jones of Ilfracombe on 6th June 1881 and can still be seen on the outside of what is now Church House. Further to the right are the backs of some of the central cottages and The Lodge with a part of Lee View just visible on the extreme right.

It is interesting to note that in the first Watermouth Estate Sale of 17th August 1920, what is now Old Court and Court Cottage were sold as Lot 45:

This entire lot fetched the sum of £850.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2005
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Raeburn Cottage, Berrynarbor - View No. 93

Raeburn Cottage, more commonly known as Capel Cottage must be one of the most popular cottages in the village for photographing, with its thatched roof and stone steps leading up to the central and sheltered front door. Tucked into the steeply ascending landscape, it evokes all the emotions of how people feel an 'old village cottage' should look.

This picture was taken by A.H. Hawke, the much-acclaimed photographer from Helston in Cornwall. The card is numbered 18045 and was sent from our Post Office at 4.30 p.m. on 15th August 1928. The card was sent by a visitor named Connie to her friend, Miss Mildred Ralph, living at Westcliff-on-Sea, Essex.

Staying at Sea View [Barton Lane] Connie says:

Dear M, wish you & D. could see this lovely village. The house where we are staying is on top of a steep hill, surrounded by hills with lovely valley and sea in front, a tiny old world village, & so quiet, we love it. Much love Connie.

Capel Cottage is home to Mark and Hilary Adams and in the Watermouth Estate Sale of August 1920, it was described as:

Thre records show that Lot 61 went for - £75.

In the photograph we can also see No. 55, now known as Hill Crest, which was home to the village Blacksmith, Sam Harding, back in 1904. [See Newsletter February 2004, View No. 87]

Tom Bartlett Tower Cottage,
January 2005
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

This view of the Sterrage Valley was taken around 1911 and shows how at that time the very steep and narrow Smythen Hill is almost clear of trees. The sharp and steep escarpments to the right of the first bend of the road are almost certainly from where stone was quarried and blasted. Harpers Mill is just in sight at the bottom of the zigzag bends and following the road beside the forest on the left, can be seen two outbuildings. Orchard Park can be seen in the centre, on the minor road leading to both Bowden and Ruggaton Farms, whilst cottages on Hagginton Hill can just be seen on the old road leading to Hele and, of course, the alternative road via 'Iron Letters Cross' to Barnstaple and Woolacombe.

 

The second picture taken by William Garratt, and postmarked 1907, shows the roof of one of the outbuildings and has been taken looking south up the Sterrage Valley. Note how the road was just scraped stone.

 

The final picture, taken by Frith also in 1911, shows clearly the entire zigzag bends but neither Harpers Mill nor Orchard Park, but the roof of the outbuilding can just be seen on the final bend in the centre of the picture. It should be noted that many cottages and outbuildings were built from the stone obtained from the quarries near Harpers Mill, as well as 'dressed stone' used for the roads and lanes.

 

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor N. Devon - View No. 91

This view of our village has been taken from a gate near the top of Hagginton Hill in 1908 by A. Parker, a photographer I have never come across before in North Devon.

From left to right we see the tower of St. Peter's Church, a corner of the Manor Hall, which is now home to the Men's' Institute snooker room. Then we have a fine west view of The Old Court and both parts of the Congregational Chapel. Next to the Chapel is the back of Ye Olde Globe public house. Fuchsia Cottage and a relatively new Lodge, built in 1904, follow this. Behind the Lodge can be seen the Parish Room, with its then thatched roof. To the right of the Lodge are the cottages which included the Berrynarbor Post Office until 1921, when it transferred to Silver Street [see Newsletters No. 42 and 43]. Finally, Beech Lee can be seen on the right. What is interesting is that on closer inspection of the wooden gate, barbed wire, yes barbed wire, can be seen on top of it, presumably to stop children and adults climbing over the gate to take a short cut down to Berrynarbor Mill.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2004
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Berrynarbor - View No. 90

This view of our village was taken by William Garratt around 1906-8 and shows the backs of the cottages on Pitt Hill, as well as the roof of Fuchsia Cottage and part of The Lodge. It also shows Hagginton Hill, from North Lee Farm with its linhey and all the cottages stretching up to Grattons at the top.

The terrace of cottages shown in the foreground are, from right to left: Swan Cottage - then No. 38, Forge Cottage - then No. 37, and finally the two former cottages, one of which served as the local post office until 1921 when it was transferred to the present premises. These two cottages were, in the late '30's, completely changed to form Langleigh House and Lee View House.

At the time this photographic postcard was taken, The Lodge had only been built a few years before, in 1904. It is interesting to note how on Hagginton Hill there were at that time some large gaps between properties, which over the ensuing years were filled in by the building of further cottages.

Around the time this photograph was taken, Harry Camp lived in No. 38, which is now Forge Cottage and Swan Cottage was his forge and blacksmith's shop. Harry Camp was Vera Greenaway's grandfather and had, I believe, previously lived in Challacombe. The outbuildings shown would have probably housed chickens and a pig or two.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2004

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Rowes Farm 97 - View No. 89

Following on from View 88 in the last Newsletter, this photographic postcard was again taken by Garratt and shows Rowes Farm and outbuilding [barn] in Sterrage Valley. The card is postmarked 8th July 1930, but the picture would have been taken by Garratt many years earlier.

Now the home of Keith and Margaret Walls, the outbuilding [barn] has been tastefully converted to a holiday cottage. In the lower left side of the front garden, a group of people can be seen sitting and standing, probably enjoying the "Real Cream Teas" being offered by Mrs. Bowden, as indicated on the advertising board in the garden.

The farm was sold as Lot 18 in the Watermouth Estate Auction Sale held on 17th August 1920 at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, and was listed as:

The Lot realised £1,450 that day and I believe was purchased by Mr. and Mrs. Bowden who lived there until moving to Sloley Farm in the early 1930's.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2004
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Sterrage Valley Berrynarbor. 58 - View No. 88

This photographic view postcard was taken by Garratt c1907 and shows Lower Rows Farm and outbuildings in the foreground, with from left to right, 74, 73 and 72 Higher Sterrage Valley, better known as Pink Heather, Hillside Cottage and Cherry Tree Cottage.

Above anything else, it shows what an accomplished photographer William Garratt was and even more remarkable that he visited our village so often from his home at 9, Station Road, Bristol, where he published over 1800 photographs of Bristol taken by him. He was born in Leeds in 1865, married in 1893 and moved to Bristol in 1899, where he died in October 1946 at the age of 81.

Lower Rows Farm was sold as Lot 17 in the Watermouth Estate Auction Sale held on 17th August 1920 at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple:

Lower Rows Farm, a Good Dairy Farm, Comprising: A good Slated Dwelling House, Slated Outbuildings, and about 48a Or. 21p of Meadow, Pasture and Arable Lands, in the occupation of Mr. W. Lerwill as a Yearly Lady-day Tenant. The Apportioned Tithe on this Lot is £7.4s.0d. The farm sold for £1,000.

Pink Heather was sold as Lot 80 in the same sale:

A Very Excellent Tiled Cottage Residence, Garden and Premises, No. 74, Higher Sterridge Valley, in the occupation of Mrs Trump, as a Quarterly Tenant. The right to take Water from the Well in Ordnance No. 953 [Part Lot 12], by means of a pipe, as at present enjoyed, is included with this Lot. This sold for £300.

Cherry Tree Cottage was sold as Lot 80 in the same sale:

A superior Slated Cottage Residence, Containing: Sitting Room, Dining Room, Kitchen, Scullery, Larder, Coal House, Wash House, and Three bedrooms, with Large and Tastefully Laid-out Gardens, No. 72 Higher Sterridge Valley, in the occupation of Mr. A W Lugg, as Quarterly Tenant. The Apportioned Tithe on this Lot is 3s.0d. There is a Well on this Lot. Cherry Tree Cottage sold for £450.

Hillside Cottage, Lot 81 , was also sold in the same sale:

A Slated Cottage, Gardens and Outbuildings, No. 73, Higher Sterridge Valley, in the occupation of Mr. W. Irwin, as a Yearly Lady-day Tenant. There is a Well on this Lot.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2004
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

In Berrynarbor 35 - View No. 87

This fine photographic postcard would have been taken by William Garratt around 1904 and shows the Berrynarbor Blacksmith, Samuel W. Harding, leading a horse probably to his blacksmith shop next to the school building in Silver Street.

 

He is seen here walking down from his home just up the road to Castle Hill where he lived with his wife, Ellen and their five children. They had four daughters, Anna, Evline, Ellen and Bessie, and one son, William, the youngest member of the family.

They lived in the cottage that sticks out into the road, numbered 55 and now called 'Hill Crest'. The cottage Sam is just walking by is No. 54, now known as Dunchideock House, where Claude Richards lived and bottled up milk in the outhouse just visible on the right.

The blacksmith's shop and forge was where the garage of 'Little Gables' is now, just beside our village school. Sam always had a fire burning with dusty cheap coal and a very large pair of bellows, between 5 and 6 feet long, to enable him to produce the high temperatures needed as a working Blacksmith.

He would both repair and make all the farming implements for the farmers around. They would bring their horses to him for re-shoeing at one shilling (12d - equivalent to 5 pence) per shoe and would also make 'iron hoops' for the boys of the village, at sixpence [6d] each. In the yard between Dunchideock House and the outhouse was a very large flat circle of iron where Tom Latham, the carpenter, would have his large wooden cart wheels at the ready for Sam to bring up the white hot iron hoop 'tyres' to put on. When these cooled, they would shrink tightly onto the wheels.

Sam's father, Thomas Harding, who married his wife Kezia from Marwood , around 1840, was the blacksmith before him.

Note how Dunchideock House was then thatched, in common with several other properties in the village. Sadly, but thankfully, Capel Cottage remains the only thatched cottage left. In my view it is high time that the Government /County Councils should give at least a 50% Heritage Grant towards the re-thatching of such properties.

In the 1920 Watermouth Estate sale, No. 54 [Dunchideock House] was Lot No. 59, in the occupation of Mrs. M. Toms as Quarterly Tenant, and listed as 'A Thatched Cottage, Piggery, Slated Cart Shed, Slated Coal Stores and Large Garden with a Tithe of Is. 1 d. This Lot gets its Water from a Tap in the road.' It sold for £120.

No. 55 [Hill Crest] was Lot No 60, in the occupation of Mr. G.H. Camp as Quarterly Tenant, listed as 'A Very, Superior Tiled Cottage, with Galvanised Shed, Potato House, Piggery and Garden. There is a Well and Pump on this Lot.' It sold for £75.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2004
e-mail:tomandinge40@gmail.com.

Illustration by: Paul Swailes

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

Coast Guard Houses - View No. 86

The photographic postcard of the Coast Guard Houses would have been taken shortly after they were built on the road between llfracombe and Berrynarbor around 1930. Now, in the year 2003, only the house marked 'x' [the one on the far left] remains the property of the Coast Guard Service the others being sold off in the early 1980's.

This card was sent by Mr. Sinden, who was the Coast Guard Officer living in the house marked 'x' back in 1934. Mr. Sinden had moved into the house with his wife and family when the houses had been completed and this card, postmarked 1934 with the Berrynarbor postmark, was sent to his mother living in St. Leonards-on-Sea, Sussex.

It is interesting to note that their daughter, Ansley Sinden, became a childhood sweetheart of Lewis Smith [1915-1989] and that at the age of 21 years, Lewis went all the way to Glasgow to visit her. Lewis was, of course, Church Warden of St. Peter's from around 1965 up to his death in June 1989. [See the Obituary for Lewis Smith in Newsletter No. 1 August 1989.]

From the Bristol Channel these houses stand out soon after travelling north east from Ball Point or when travelling westwards from Foreland Point Lighthouse at Lynmouth and, of course, the volunteer coast guards still have a lookout point there, together with all the modern communication facilities needed these days. To the left of the picture is what can be the start, mid-way or end of a strenuous but breathtaking walk to or from Watermouth Harbour, following the coast path around Widemouth Point, Farm and House. But be sure to take your camera and good footwear.

Can I finally appeal for pictures and information to keep these articles going? Please!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2003
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

PLUTO The Harbour Watermouth View No. 85

PLUTO: Pipe Line Under The Ocean

The first indication that anyone in North Devon had that 'something was going on' was in the autumn of 1942 when a tank landing craft, fitted with what looked like a large cable drum on her vehicle deck, turned up in Ilfracombe harbour. She was soon joined by a second vessel of the same type and these two laid the pipeline between Swansea and Watermouth harbour. It was some weeks later that a large number of grey painted petrol tankers with 'Pool' on their sides, were seen passing through llfracombe on a regular basis.

During the war there were no branded petrol supplies and all petrol was 'pooled' and distributed under that name. The pipeline from Swansea had been brought up on Watermouth and the line taken along the path of the stream to Sawmills and across to Mill Park, and outlets positioned near where the Berry Mill House stands beside the road. Hardstandings were constructed for loading points and many large storage tanks were installed, half buried, right up through the valley there.

Petrol tankers would load up and then take fuel to Chivenor Airfield, Winkleigh and other military installations throughout the South West and to other petrol depots in North Devon. Chivenor was a very active operational Coastal Command station at the time. A number of large 'NO SMOKING' signs were erected by the roadside from Watermouth up to almost the entrance to the village- Road blocks were set up and vehicles and buses stopped and the occupants reminded of the 'No Smoking' regulation as well as being questioned on their business and reason for their travel. These road blocks were manned by special military police wearing distinctive blue caps, they were a special wing of the Military Police and were called Vunerable Points Police. They wore a diamond shaped flash on their arms with the initials 'VP' and were established in 1941 and disbanded at the end of the war. In addition, protection against possible fires was provided by a number of fire appliances and firemen based at what is now the Old Sawmill Inn. These men were mainly from the Bristol area and belonged to the A.F.S., the wartime Auxiliary Fire Service.

The first picture shows a line of the grey 'POOL' tankers loading up with petrol from the various loading bays on the road to Sawmills from the village, with Hagginton Hill rising up behind them. The second picture shows the pipeline coming ashore in Watermouth harbour.

For the pictures I am grateful to Moira Allsford, Commodore of the Watermouth Yacht Club and to the Maritime Museum of Appledore. For much of the information I have to thank an old friend from Dover, Peter Southcombe, who as a child lived in Ilfracombe, and David Huxtable, who as a boy of 12-13, remembers the road blocks and has carried out research on the subject of the Blue Caps. David is married to Sheila Bowden and they now live in Chichester. I should very much welcome any further memories of those days during the war and which we can write about in the next Newsletter.

For further information see the articles in April 1998 by Tony Beauclerk and Don Taylor, and more recently in April 2000, the article by Jimmy Brooks.

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, September 2003
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

P.S. My thanks for the contributions that came forward regarding the colour postcards of paintings by H. Hughes Richardson. Yes, Linda, I can confirm that the rear cover picture is of Devon Cottage on Hagginton Hill.

[And I can definitely confirm that Nigel's picture on the cover is Whitecote, Pitt Hill! Ed.]

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OLD BERRYNARBOR

The Harbour Watermouth - View No. 84

The first and older postcard view of Watermouth was published by the Pictorial Stationery Company Limited of London in 1904 and printed in Hamburg, Germany, under their 'Peacock Brand' label. It shows a very calm high tide with two or three small dinghy-type boats as well as a sailor and a number of children looking out to sea. The Martello-shaped tower can be seen on the right of the picture. The wooden slat type screen is probably the remains of 'Squire' Arthur Davie Bassett's attempt at oyster breeding in the harbour. Indeed, we are informed by the North Devon Journal on the 12th May 1870:

"The year or two since Mr. Arthur Davie Bassett, of Watermouth Castle, resolved to try the experiment of breeding oysters in North Devon. With this view he constructed a large reservoir on the sea beach as an oyster bed, communicating with the sea by means of a canal, and in such manner that the water might be kept in or let out at low tide by use of traps. A number of the small, ovate, deep shell variety of oyster, generally known as "natives" were then procured and placed in the artificial bed. Mr. Bassett found considerable difficulty at first in keeping the bed in good order, and many persons were somewhat incredulous as to the success of the experiment; but, after a great deal of perseverance, the attempt to make a spawning bed has been attended with the most interesting results.

"A quantity of broken pots and similar articles were placed in the reservoir, and on these the "natives" have deposited their spat, which has gradually arrived at maturity. Breeding is now going on to a remarkable extent. Mr. Bassett has kindly forwarded to us some specimens in their various stages of their development, from the minute "spat" to the full grown oyster of four or five years old, anyone feeling an interest on the subject, may inspect them at the Office of the Journal."

The second picture is a real photographic picture taken around 1936 by the Bristol photographer W. Garratt and is numbered 166. Looking above the collection of small boats, the retaining wall for the main road to llfracombe can be plainly seem, the road itself had been constructed in the late 1800's. Taken midway between high and low tide, the picture plainly shows the small jetty-like breakwater with water lapping it on both sides. During the Second World War the harbour became a hive of activity with PLUTO, leading up to D-Day, but more of this in the October issue.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2003
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com.

My thanks to our Editor, Judie, who took up my challenge and found out all about H.Hughes Richardson and put me in touch with his grandson, John.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 83

Cottage Roses and Cottage, Henton Hill

The picture on the front cover, painted by the watercolour artist, H. Hughes Richardson in 1922 for the art postcard publishers J. Salmon of Sevenoaks, is entitled 'Cottage, Henton Hill, Berrynarbor, Nr. Ilfracombe.2552'. It shows the house, well up Hagginton Hill, where Elizabeth Richards lived and her white cat is shown on the fourth step up.

The back cover is entitled 'Cottage and Roses, Berrynarbor, Nr. llfracombe.2551 and H. Hughes Richardson has painted this cottage probably making use of Garratts postcard views No. 37 and 38, which I have in my collection. The former shows two girls and the latter an old man with white bushy beard and workman's clothes. The postcard, I believe, depicts another cottage near the bottom of Hagginton Hill with a lean-to at its southern end. At one stage, however, I genuinely thought it was of Whitecote, 33 Pitt Hill!

H. Hughes Richardson produced four watercolour views of Berrynarbor numbered 2551-2554, which were sold in the 1920's in special display packs, costing 6d for the full set. [See Newsletter No. 10, February 1991]. He does not appear to have had any further watercolours published by J. Salmon and I wonder if anyone can give me any information on this artist?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2003
e-mail:tomandinge40@gmail.com.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 82

Bowden's South Lee Farm, Berrynarbor 2

This photographic postcard of South Lee Farm was published by E. Osbome & Company of llfracombe around 1912-13. The message on the back roads: 'Dear Gus, Had tea in this out of the way spot just now. Hope you are in the pink Best wishes RWI.'. It was sent to Cardiff in 1913 and one can imagine that the writer had come across from Cardiff on one of the paddle steamers to llfracombe and was staying in one of the many popular hotels or guest houses there.

Another similar card sent on 2nd August 1913 to Thornton Hill, Exeter, reads: 'We are having lovely weather so far & a nice time. We went for a trip this afternoon & had tea at this place in the garden. Couldn't you come down for a day just to see this place. Next Wed. would be a good day, come by the early train, the one about 8.40 I think, you can look it up. Love from both Louie'.

Like the Toms at Middle Lee Farm, Devon cream teas were provided for visitors arriving, initially by horse-drawn carriages and later by charabancs running out from llfracombe. In this picture we can see three of the Bowden's children, two girls and a small boy, as well as two lady visitors. Note how five of the six simply laid tables have flowers on and all are covered with linen table cloths. Note, too, that the grass, far from being cut, is almost up to the height of the bench seats provided. The large field seen behind the roof of South Lee belonged to Middle Lee Farm and how straight those plough furrows are! Undoubtedly ploughed by a team of horses and single plough.

In the Watermouth Estate Sale held at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple on Tuesday, 17th August, commencing at 11.00 a.m., offered for sale by John Smale, F.A.I., South Lee went up in £50/£25 increments to reach its selling price of £400. Listed as Lot 23:

William Bowden was recorded as the tenant farmer from 1906 [Kellys], then as the owner farmer after 1921 up to and including 1939 [Kellys].

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2003
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW NO. 81

Sterrage Valley. 1. near Ilfracombe

This is another photographic postcard taken by A.J. Vince of Ilfracombe in 1908, or possibly earlier; numbered V45 it is the second of his two views of the Sterrage Valley [see Newsletter No. 81, December 2002].

It is my belief that this view has been taken from just above Middle Lee Farm, looking south down the Sterrage Valley with parts of South Lee Farm just showing on the left between the trees and bushes. The field in the Valley was known as Broad Meadow and now has several properties on it, All were built after 1950 when by Compulsory purchase order, Broad Meadow was bought from Mrs. Ley for £120, and the four council houses built at the southern end.

Half way up on the left, part of the old Temperance Hall can just be seen. In the late 1800's and very early part of the last century, the Temperance Hall was used for village dances, concerts, Bible classes and meetings. [See Newsletter No. 40, February 1996.] These days only parts of some walls and foundations of the Hall remain, situated behind and to the north of Orchard House.

Orchard House was built by Tom Ley in 1926 [see Newsletter No. 29, April 1994].

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW NO. 80

Sterrage Valley, 2. Near llfracombe

This beautiful photographic postcard taken by A.J. Vince of llfracombe circa 1908, or even earlier and numbered V48, is one of two views of the Sterrage Valley. It shows the orchard opposite Pink Heather and Higher Rows Farm, whilst Lower Rowes Farm can just be seen where the road dips round to the south. Behind the large apple tree in the centre, you are just able to see Woodlands Cottage, where Olive Kent lived for the past fifty years. Further still to the left is what appears to be a very modern Woodlands House - a large detached house standing in its own grounds and approached by the small lane off the road beside Cedars. Today the house is only just visible when coming down the Valley from the main road. On the 1921 map, Lower Rowes was known a 'Low Rows', and Woodlands Cottage as 'Lower Cockhill'.

The following folklore appears in a Victorian booklet, 'Signs and Superstitions', selling at 1d!

December: "December was the 10th month of the early Roman year and got its name from Decem, the Latin for ten. Among the Saxons it was originally Winter Monat, but after their conversion to Christianity, it was Heligh Monat or holy month, in honour of the birth of Christ. 'December frost and January flood Never boded the husbandman good'. 'December cold, with snow, good for rye'. Frost on the shortest day [22nd] indicates a severe winter.

Christmas Eve: the Latin Church called Christmas the Feast of Lights, because Christ, the true light, had come into the world, hence the Christmas candle and the yule log. In the western parts of Devonshire, a superstition prevails that at 12 o'clock on Christmas Eve, the oxen in stalls are found on their knees, as an attitude of devotion. Mince pies were intended to represent the offerings of the wise men, as many of the ingredients come from the East, the connection is plain. Holy Innocents' Day, December 28th, was formerly reckoned as the most unlucky day throughout the year, and few had the temerity to begin any work or start any new undertaking then. The superstitious recalled the fact when the first Tay Bridge was blown down on the 28th December 1879.

January: January is so called either from the Latin Janua - a door - probably because the name suggests the opening of the year, or from the two-faced god, Janus, who looks backwards and forwards. An ancient superstition maintains that the weather of the first twelve days of the year is symbolic of the kind of weather which will characterise the months of the year, which, in pre-Christian times, dated from April, but which later, under the influence of the Christian Church, counted from Christmas, and this belief is encountered in the whole of European lore."

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, November 2002

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 79

Berrynarbor Village 15

With the fate of our village Post Office in all our minds, I thought it apt to share this view of Berrynarbor taken by William Garratt, the Bristol Photographer, around 1904.

In 1904, the building we know now as the Post Office was just plain and dilapidated No. 62 Silver Street, the home of Mrs. C. Huxtable. If you look carefully, you will see that near the centre of the building there are outside wooden steps with a handrail leading up to the first floor level. Much of the left-hand side of the building was over the years demolished, removed and in some cases replaced.

This fine photographic postcard depicts an ivy-clad St. Peter's church tower, with the roof and chimneys of 51 The Village [Tower Cottage] just to the left, as well as the Manor House, with a small part of Manor Cottage showing. This was where Betsy Leworthy lived. The Manor Hall itself was not built until later in 1913-14.

In the village centre, the splayed cobbled steps give an impressive entrance to the lych gate and church. The building on the corner, No. 53 [Dunchideock], of which the small building directly on the corner was known as the 'paintist'. This was where the large wooden coach wheels made by Tom Ley, the carpenter and wheelwright, would have had white hot iron 'tyres' shrunk on to them. The work was carried out on a large circle or iron set into the yard floor. To the right of No. 54 can be seen the corner of a large, thatched 'Jacobswell', where Lewis Smith's mother, Edith Huxtable, was born in 1881. Jacobswell was later turned into the small row of cottages as we know them today.

In the bottom right-hand corner, the then thatched roof of 63 Silver Street [Brookside] can just be seen. Brookside was home to Ben Draper and his wife Polly, who had been previously married to a Mr. Courtney, and her three children - Polly, Lucy and Ephraim. At the bottom left, we catch sight of the roof and dormer windows of 61 Silver Street, where Jim and Betty Brooks live. Beyond No. 61 can be seen the large doors to the village Smithy, where Sam Harding kept the forge fire alight most of the time, and carried out all kinds of iron work and horse shoeing. It is quite surprising sometimes how much information can be gleaned from just one picture.

I should like to appeal once again for any further pictures or information from those people who read these articles with interest.

My thanks to Rosslyn Hammett, who gave me such help with the article on North Lee Farm - Newsletter No. 78, and supplied me with further copy pictures. I must also thank Moira Allsford, Commodore of Watermouth Yacht Club for information and pictures relating to the Harbour and PLUTO.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 78

Castle Hill, Berrynarbor

Yet another fine photographic postcard from around 1925 taken by William Garratt, the Bristol based photographer. This latest acquisition to my collection is numbered 104 and fills another gap in my collection of Garratt's Berrynarbor Post Cards. My thanks to Jenny Stuckey from South Devon and our Editor, Judie, for putting me in touch. Incidentally, Card No. 103 depicts Hagginton Hill [and Ellis Cottages], whilst No. 106 is of Hills Terrace, which leads me to now presume that No. 105 will be of Moules, Sloleys or Hammonds Farm, or close by.

This picture not only shows Castle Hill Cottages and Farm, but also a Virginia-creeper clad Moules Farm and outbuildings, St. Peter's Church tower and the chimney of Capel Cottage. Note on the extreme right, the ornate cast iron gate leading to a side entrance. Moules Farm was sold at the 1920 Watermouth Estate Sale for £2,000 and as Lot 13 was listed as 'A very superior Dairy & Sheep Farm, comprising A Dwelling House, Outbuildings, Cottage and about 98a Ir 16p [acres, rods and perches] of Meadow, Pasture & Arable Lands, in the occupation of Messrs. J. Richards, V.Richards, L. Bowden and Nicholls as Yearly Lady-day Tenants.'

Capel Cottage also sold in the 1920 Sales as Lot 61 and listed as 'An Old-fashioned Artistic Thatched - Cottage, Gardens and Premises, situate in Moules Hill No. 56, with Vacant Possession. There is a Well & Pump on this Lot.' It fetched £75 and shows just how valuable Moules Farm was considered to be.

From notes I made in the late 1970's, Alma Gray nee Huxtable, affectionately known as 'Granny Gray', informed me that of the Castle Hill Cottages, Jack Dummett lived in the lowest one; Florrie Edwards [Alfie Leworthy's sister] lived in the middle one; and Mr. Delbridge [Lucy Delbridge's son] lived in the top one with his daughter, Tilly, who attended school in the 1890's with Granny Gray. Tilly is buried in the top part of the churchyard. Ivy White and Gerald Bray's mother and father, Rosie and Fred Bray, who had been gassed in the 1914-18 War, lived in the larger cottage, Castle Hill Farm. They also had a daughter Audrey who died as a schoolchild at the age of 6 in 1927, and Lewis Smith could remember all the children giving a couple of pennies each for flowers for her funeral. Fred Bray never really recovered from the gassing and died at the age of 41 in 1936.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 77

North Lee

Another fine photographic postcard taken by William Garratt, the Bristol-based photographer, around 1930, or even earlier.

The picture shows Mrs. Huxtable with her dog and a young lad, possibly related, outside North Lee Farmhouse, which she and her husband had purchased at the first Watermouth Estate Sale on 17th August 1920, for £1,100.0s.0d.

North Lee Farm is situated at the foot of Hagginton Hill and is home to Edna Barber, who has lived there since the early '70's.

Opposite the farm can be seen the outbuildings and old linhay with slate and stone steps leading up to a loft used for storing hay and straw.

The outbuildings and linhay were removed in the late 1970's to make way for the building of two houses, Lynwood and Berry Home. Beyond North Lee Farm can be seen several other cottages up Hagginton Hill.

The Huxtables were still listed as living in North Lee Farm in the 1939 Kelly's Directory, but I am still unaware of when they moved out, and wonder if there is anyone who might be able to inform me when they left and who lived there until the early 1970's when Edna moved in.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 76

Pitt Hill

I believe this picture to have been taken around 1910, but not published until around 1921. It shows a horse drawn 'jingle' or 'butt' outside the two-stall stable and coach house opposite The Globe Inn, which was knocked down and rebuilt in the late 1950's/early 1960's by Charles Leyton as a bungalow, with cellar, now known as 'Blue Mist'. The stable and coach house formed part of Lot 51 in the Watermouth Estate Sale on August 17th 1920, with completion on Lady Day 1921.

The price achieved for Lot 51 was £650, by comparison the Globe and adjoining two cottages, Nos. 41 and 42, fetched £1,100 and No. 39 [Fuchsia Cottage] fetched £325.

The Stable and Coach House had originally been used by the Bassett's from Watermouth Castle to park their coach under cover whilst attending the morning service at St. Peter's. In the late 1800's, or early 1900's, the large cellar of the Coach House had been used for storing coal for Mrs. Leaworthy, the local coal merchant. The coal would be brought over from Wales and the vessel would anchor up at high tide in the harbour. Directly the tide receded, anyone from the village with a horse or donkey cart would go down, load up and bring the coal up to this village store or deliver it direct as a full cart load to villagers. It would be unloaded in the road with the villager having to carry it all inside or to a store at the back of his/her cottage. Mrs. Leaworthy had a whole team of donkeys that she would take into llfracombe in the season, for visitors to ride on to Lee or to Watermouth. Having returned them all to llfracombe, she faced the further long journey back to Berrynarbor with her team!

The old Post Office can just be seen behind the young lad, together with its steps up to the front entrance. Note the telephone wire isolators on the chimney. The steps and front of No. 39 [Fuchsia Cottage] can be seen on the right.

If anyone can name the young lad and put a correct date for the picture, I should love to hear from you, or let Judie know. Thanks.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, February 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO 75

The Globe Inn - Berrynarbor

This first card shows the exterior of "Ye Olde Globe Inn" around 1930, when Charlie Blackmore took over from Charlie Cornish, who had been the landlord since 1921. Charlie Blackmore was a popular landlord who produced a series of postcards of the Globe Inn, including one of his beloved Parrot "George" who often supped beer on the bar [as shown in the August 1991 Newsletter No. 13].

The second picture is one of those he produced and shows the Kitchen Bar which, apart from the furniture, remains virtually unchanged.

The final picture produced by E.A. Sweetman & Son, Ltd. of Tunbridge Wells was taken around 1950. The exterior is virtually unchanged with the exception of the telephone line coming in on the left and overhead electricity wires coming to the right hand side. The Bar sign beside the door gives the opening and closing times for weekdays and Sunday.

Since 1973 there have been several Landlords at the Globe but for me Phil and Lynne Bridle have been the most popular. Two very hard workers, going to bed late but having to rise quite early due to restocking deliveries and preparing for the day ahead. A previous landlord had made his views well known and certainly did not put himself out for the locals, and skittles and darts teams did not exist at all. Fortunately, that all changed with Phil and Lynne and the Globe featured once more in all the darts and skittles leagues of North Devon. Some years back, Phil and a few others started the tradition which has continued to the present time, of producing a first class super float entry for the North Devon Carnivals. Over the years it became just that, taking months of hard work to complete, and winning virtually every accolade at all the Carnivals, more often than not coming away with the Best Overall trophy.

We must not forget their welcome and friendly attitude towards children, and their parents, providing a special area complete with games, adventure play area and an outside play area. We can also remember Thursdays during the summer season when cars would roll up and there would be a queue waiting for the Globe to open. This was for a special children's night when Phil on the organ and Gary would get all the children, and some of the parents, singing and reciting, "We love Berry, Berry, Berry, Berry" etc.

Lynne has always provided a very comprehensive menu, loved by visitors and locals alike, especially her Sunday Roasts, the only complaint we received from visitors staying with us was that their portions were enormous and they were embarrassed to leave such tasty food on their plates!

There have been Quiz Nights, especially the Quiz held on Boxing Day, and the popular Friendship Lunches, held for the elderly residents. Phil regularly played the organ at the evening services at the Chapel until its closure and has, on occasions, stepped in as organist at St. Peter's Church. How many people, I wonder, realise that our Rector, Keith Wyer, has taken Communion [and hopefully will continue to] in the Globe for those parishioners who can no longer manage the climb up the church steps!

I finish by thanking Phil, Lynne, their two daughters Kate and Sarah and of course all their helpers, many of whom have been youngsters, including our own, from the village.

We shall miss you both but look forward to the Globe continuing to the standard and in the traditions you have set. I am sure that everyone in the village and many people living in North Devon join me in thanking you for all you have done for us over the last two decades.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2002
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 74

Christmas Past In Berrynarbor

This picture shows from left to right, No. 54 The Village, now known as Dunchideock House, together with the small, barn-like building which, when we first moved into the village was used as a dairy and was where the fresh milk was bottled and distributed by Claude Richards. Then we see the row of thatched houses which are now known as Little Gables [No. 50] on the corner and Bessemer Thatch [Nos. 48 & 49]. The postcard has been sent from Brentford at 5.45 a.m. on 23rd December 1908, and would have reached its destination either the same day, or at the latest on the 24th. In those days there was even a delivery on Christmas Day!

The second and third pictures are from a collection of photographs I acquired many years ago which had been put together by Miss Iris Hebbert, who lived at Beech Leigh during the early part of the last century.

The first of these [on left] shows Captain James and friends, including Iris Hebbert [standing on the far right], dressed in fancy dress for celebrations at Watermouth Castle for Christmas 1916. In the centre can be seen the austere Mrs. Curzon.

The second [ on right] shows a party from Watermouth Castle on Broadstrands Beach', presumably having been rowed across from the Harbour and not having climbed down the 235+ steps down to the beach! Iris can be seen again on the far right, and it would appear that they have devoured their picnic, as the basket looks pretty empty! The picture includes a Major Williams and possibly Captain James.

Wishing everyone a peaceful Christmas and healthy New Year.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2001
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 73

Tom's Tea House, Steerage Valley

This view of Tom's Tea House [Middle Lee Farm] was taken by the Cornish Photographer, A.H. Hawke of Helston back in the mid to late '20's and is one of approximately 20 views taken around the village and Watermouth at that time. We can see in the picture, Mr. Dan Toms, who with his wife Elizabeth, Lizzie, had moved in from their cottage, 68 Lower Sterrage around 1923, upon the death of his father, Francis.

Dan and Lizzie had two children, Reginald and Violet. Reginald lived in Weybridge, Surrey, up to his death in 1999, whilst Vi has remained in Berrynarbor and lives in Dormer Cottage. Vi was only four years old when they moved in to Tom's Tea House, but can vividly remember the Royal Red Coaches arriving from Ilfracombe and parking in the field opposite, whilst the occupants had a full Devonshire Cream Tea. Vi can also recall, as a young girl, serving cream teas to the many visitors and, of course, meals to those staying with them for their holidays.

The Toms had several Devonshire Red cows, milked very early by Dan and Lizzie and the milk taken in a churn around to several customers in the village, often accompanied by the young Vi. The milk would be ladled out in pint or quart measures into customers' jugs or containers, and Vi can remember one customer who if you arrived a minute after 8 o'clock, would not have any at all! The two lads shown in the postcard with Dan, are son Reginald and Ian's nephew, Ron, who was brought up by Dan and Lizzie and now lives in Birdswell Lane. The Toms continued serving cream teas and taking in guests right up until the mid-thirties when through ill-health, Dan was forced to give up farming and the family moved into Dormer House - now Dormer Cottage and Miss Muffet's.

Francis [Frank] Toms had been in occupation of Middle Lee Farm [119 The Village] from around 1906, when he took over the farm from Philip Petherick. Middle Lee Farm was sold as Lot 21, 'A Desirable SMALL HOLDING and Noted TEA HOUSE, comprising: A good slated Dwelling House suitable for Private Residence, good Outbuildings, Lawn, Gardens, Meadow; Orchard and Arable Lands, containing together about 44a.2r.1p. In the occupation of Mr. F. Toms and R. Huxtable, as Yearly Lady-day Tenants. The Watermouth Estate sale took place on Tuesday, 17th August, 1920, at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple with the completion date set for Lady-day, 25th March, 1921.

Middle Lee was sold for £1,350.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2001
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD VIEW NO. 72

Pink Heather and Gardens, Berrynarbor

This photographic postcard of 'Pink Heather and Gardens' and showing to the right of' the house, two chalets, would have been taken by a photographer commissioned by Frith's of Reigate in the very early 1960's.

Whilst my parents had moved to Tower Cottage in 1965, Inge and I had moved to Ilfracombe in 1964. I believe it was in either 1965 or 1966 that my parents introduced us to the wonderful cream teas at Pink Heather in the Sterridge Valley. They were legendary, with people from all over this part of North Devon making a visit during the week-end afternoons. Both Jack and Jill Songhurst would be preparing and serving, ably assisted at that time by their son Graham.

©Copyright The Francis Frith Collection

The Songhursts purchased Pink Heather shortly after the last World War, possibly from the Floyds. Jack Songhurst was a carpenter and professional French Polisher and I always remember the wonderful and well-polished tables, chairs, antique furniture and particularly fine examples of three-legged chairs. Jill was a staunch supporter of our local Tyrrell Hospital and raised many hundred of pounds for the Hospital League of Friends by holding her famous Thursday waffle afternoons and evenings.

Again in the early 1960's, Mr. Noble, an architect who lived at Donnybrook, applied for and got permission to up-grade Pink Heather and an extension - the dining room _ was added. At the same time, the Songhursts applied for a licence to sell liquor.

From the rear of the house there was a covered passageway leading to a pre-fabricated building which contained 6 small letting bedrooms, including two honeymoon suites - all with little privacy!

The Sterridge Valley from above Higher Rows Farm and Jan's Barn, and with Pink Heather in the centre.
The covered passage from the house to the bedrooms is just visible.

Following the death of her husband and later her son, Jill ran the business for a short while before becoming a resident in a home in Ilfracombe, where she still lives today.

In 1990, pink Heather was put on the market, declaring itself to be a Property with 9 bedrooms [!] and purchased by the Walls. A tremendous amount of work was undertaken - the extension on the front was demolished as it was in a very bad state of repair, and the cottage returned to its 2 up 2 down original state. The outbuildings were also demolished, including the two chalets which came to light when the bramble patch was attacked! They have been replaced by today's two 'letting' cottages.

Matthew and Karen brought up their children there whilst work was progressing and after they moved into the village, Pink Heather became home to Bernard and June O'Regan. Bernard and June opened up their garden for the recent Berrynarbor Village Garden Trail, which was so successful. They were able to show how their many terraces contain fish ponds, flowers, shrubs and trees, plus an area for vegetables - organic of course - whilst across the road they have their car park and natural bog garden and stream.

My thanks to Keith Walls for his help and finally, I wonder if anyone has any photographs taken of Jack, Jill and Graham inside or outside their cottage or on the terraces. Please do get in touch if you do.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2001
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 71

Berry Narbor From the Air

 

This aerial photographic postcard of our Village was taken around 1932 by Aerofilms Limited of Hendon, London NW9, and is one of three such aerial views taken by them at that time. This view is numbered 33059; I also have view No. 33061, which shows a more close up view of Berrynarbor. So far I have been unable to locate a copy of No. 33060, so if there is anyone who has such a postcard view, I should be very pleased to know what it shows and if possible obtain a copy!!

The photographer has taken the picture on an approach to the village from the east, as we see Hammonds Farm in the foreground, followed by Moules Farm. Note the footpath across the fields linking up with the other lane which passes by the then Rectory, hidden by trees. At the bottom of the lane, Turn-a-Round, Beech Leigh can be seen between the trees.

Continuing past Moules Farm, we can see Capel Cottage before entering the centre of the village with St. Peter's Church, Congregational Chapel, Manor Hall, Primary School, a thatched Bessemer Thatch, The Globe and the School Room. This photograph was taken prior to any houses being built on the village end of Barton Lane, apart from Berrivale. However, just opposite Berrivale, and in the corner of the field north east of the Church, some earthworks can be seen, and these could be the commencement of footings for Chatsworth and Berry View, which were built for Mr. John Richards of Moules Farm and were completed in 1933. North Lee Farm House can be seen at the foot of Hagginton Hill, and note how the field in front of the hill is planted with vegetables, etc. A couple of bell tents can be seen in the field opposite Middle Lee Farm and most of the fields bordering it, and Glen Lee, appear to be cultivated. If anyone can give further information about this photographic postcard, do please contact me. Thank you.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2001
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW NO. 70

Berrynarbor 5, Nr. Ilfracombe, V47

The beautiful photographic postcard of the village was taken by the Ilfracombe Photographer, A.J. Vince, around 1905. Alfred John Vince was born in 1874 and died in 1947. He married Annie Louisa Lewis, who was born in 1875 and also died in 1947. They had two children, Alfred Lewis, always known as Lewis, who later owned the North Devon company, F.C. Snell Ltd. The younger son, George Henry, owned Vinces Stationers in Ilfracombe High Street. George now lives in Spain, whilst his sons David and Nigel continue to run the family business.

The second picture [scanned from a photocopy of a photograph] shows Alfred John Vince with his two sons in their garden at Ilfracombe around 1923, and for this I must once more thank John Vince, son of Alfred Lewis Vince. John was Clerk to our Parish Council from 1991 until his move in 1998.

On the right of the postcard we can see our village National School, complete with its own bell atop the roof, now unfortunately missing. Note that Bessemer Thatch is completely thatched and, at that time, divided into several properties, each with its own 'Pig-house' at the back. The Church stands proudly above the several large trees then surrounding it and beside it the Manor House, complete with chimneys and a window in its south facing wall. The angle at which the photograph has been taken hides part of the Chapel, now sadly closed and being developed into two homes. The Globe, Fuchsia Cottage and the then newly built Lodge, can be seen despite all the cottages on the south side of the road, opposite them. Hagginton Hill is noticeable for the large gaps between the properties, now mainly 'in-filled'.

However, the most interesting part of the postcard for me is the thatched Village Room in the foreground. In the early 1900's, Mrs. Penn-Curzon allowed the village ladies to meet there for knitting classes and general get-togethers. On Sundays it was used for the Sunday School, with the Vicar's wife, Mrs. Churchill, and her daughter, Elsie, teaching the children the many Bible stories. In those days, children were not only expected to attend Sunday School but also to attend at least two of the three church services held every Sunday!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 69

BERRYNARBOR SCHOOL c1921

This view of the Infant Class of Berrynarbor School was taken in the playground just outside the school building around 1921. The teacher on the right I do not know, but thanks to Drusilla Hall, who, with her husband, stayed with us at Tower Cottage and who live in Kent, we know the young lad in the front row on the left with a bow tie is Frederick John Draper. Frederick was the half-brother [by the same mother] of Drusilla's grandmother, who is the young girl standing next to the teacher on the right, her name being Mary Lavinia Pinching.

Wouldn't it be great if we could add a few more names to this picture, here's hoping. Had the children been sitting on the ground, we would have seen the iron 'horse shoes' and 'studs' on the bottoms of their boots. Note that the girls' boots were exactly the same as the boys'.

My thanks to Drusilla for sending me the copy of this picture obtained from her grandmother.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2001
e-mail address: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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Well, Tom, your hopes are realised. Ron, with a little help from Brenda Leyton and Ivy Richards, has named them all! The year is 1920. It is interesting to note that they named the young man in the bow tie as Charlie Pinching and that they thought Drusilla's grandmother was Beth Delbridge. However, Drusilla must be right about her grandmother, but the bow-tied lad, is he Charlie or Frederick?

• Back Row: Verna Richards, Reg Leigh, Rachel Irwin, Vera Richards, Phyllis Watkins and [Beth Delbridge].
• Middle Row: Francis Huxtable, George Gear, Leslie Sydnam, Ron Toms, Brenda Richards, George Irwin.
• Front Row: Charlie Pinching, Albert Adams, Eddie Courtney [with the board], Dorris Cornish and Honour Irwin.

  The Teacher is Lily Richards, mother of John Huxtable.

Rachel, Honour and George Irwin are sisters and brother, and Brenda and Vera Richards are sisters.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW NO. 68

Christmas - Briary Cove

For Christmas I have chosen this postcard view of Briary Cave, Watermouth, published by Twiss Brothers of Ilfracombe around 1904. This particular card has 'Christmas Greetings' overprinted in red and was sent on 24th December 1907 at 6.45 p.m. from Ilfracombe. I have no doubt that it would have been delivered on Christmas Day to the Putney Heath, London SW address, such was the reliability of our postal service at that time!

The second card depicts exactly the same view but through the eyes of the prolific West Country watercolour artist, T. Warren Vernon, published in 1906 by Raphael Tuck & Sons in the 'Oilette' series of postcards.

One of the most striking but little known facts of Briary, Smallmouth and Watermouth Caves is the abundance of sea-lily fossils in the rock faces. Deposited a million years ago, they form an amazing sight - like a giants fingerprints.

Following View 67 in the last newsletter, I heard from John and Ann Vince who now live in Teignmouth. John was, of course, Clerk to our Parish Council from 1991 until his retirement in 1998. He informed me that A.J. Vince was his grandfather and that the initials stood for Alfred John. He was born in 1874 and died in 1947. He also sent a copy of a photograph of his grandmother, Annie Louisa [Lewis] who was born in 1875 and died in 1959. This proved without question that the lady shown in the card of Watermouth Bay was indeed the photographer's wife. Annie Louisa was the daughter of Richard Lewis [born in Georgeham in 1848] who became the Bailiff of Watermouth Castle. My thanks to John and I accept that I was wrong when I said 'it is unlikely we shall ever know' who the lady was!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 2000
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNAROR - VIEW NO. 67

Watermouth Bay

For this Newsletter I am showing two views taken by A.J. Vince of Ilfracombe around 1904-1908. The first is taken from the field above Big Meadow and the second from what is now Napps Camp site. They both show clearly the footpath running right through and breaking up the large field. Note particularly just how enclosed the footpath was with high fencing.

The view is still as beautiful today but, of course, has vastly changed, largely due to tourism taking over from agriculture. One can only speculate who the Victorian-clad fine lady can be. Was she perhaps living or staying at Watermouth Castle or could she have been a friend of the photographer. Sadly, it is unlikely that we shall ever know!

The almost landlocked entrance to Watermouth Harbour is known as Burrow Nose on the right headland beyond the Martello tower/dove cote, and Widmouth Head on the left. The hard and jagged cuts into the coastline in the foreground give us Watermouth Cove with its famous Briary and Smallmouth Caves. In the second view, the turrets/chimneys of Watermouth Castle, built between 1825 and 1840, can just be seen on the left - these may not be visible when reproduced - nor the short breakwater in the harbour which remains to this day.

My thanks to everyone who contacted Judie or me relating to my article in the August issue.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 2000
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 66

30 and 31 Ellis Cottages

This month I am showing several mystery views of the above cottages, which I have just received, today from Michael Morrow: 'Some old photos from Berrynarbor, people unknown. Best wishes, Michael Morrow '.

View 1 is of the two cottages at the foot of Pitt Hill and shows where the original BERRYNARBOR sign was placed, well before The Haven had been built. The gentleman appears in many of the photographs I have received, and I am hoping that someone out there will be able to name him for me.

In View 2, we see him outside No. 31 with probably his wife and they are advertising 'Let's Be Gay' at the Gaiety Theatre, Ilfracombe. The Gaiety Theatre was sited directly opposite the old Ilfracombe Pavilion, which itself was demolished a couple of years ago.

The third picture shows a 50's/60's car outside the cottages, which may give the best clue to identities. Who is the young girl proudly holding her dolly and handbag? The registration number of the car is clearly shown as 4260 NX.

The final picture is the best I have ever seen of the two semi-detached cottages, which were sold in the first Watermouth Estate Sale of 17th August 1920, with completion date 25th March 1921, the details of which are given below. Lot 64 was sold for £205.0s.0d.

Lot 64 [Coloured Brown on Plan]
All that Slated Cottage, Large Garden and Premises Containing
2r. 22p.
No. 30 and 31, Ellis Cottage, in the occupation of Mr. W. Sloley as a Quarterly Tenant.

The Apportioned tithe on this Lot is 5s. 3d.
There is a Water-tap on this Lot.
The right to maintain the Stop-tap on this Lot is reserved.

My thanks to Michael and Joy for the pictures they sent me and I hope that someone reading this article will recognise some of the people shown and either contact me or Judie. Thank you.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 2000
e-mail: tomandinge40@gmail.com

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* UPDATE: June 2022 - It seems that information on the photos was forthcoming with the gentleman identified as Jimmy Draper and the lady as his second wife Maude. The photos are estimated to have been taken c1953/54.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 65
Bessemer Thatch

This photographic postcard showing Bessemer Thatch from the back garden was taken by Wm. Garratt, the Bristol Photographer, around 1935. I obtained the card around November last year at the Exeter Postcard Fair and written on the back is 'Bessemer Cottage, Berrynarbor, N. Devon'. It was certainly taken before 5th May, 1937, when Bessemer Thatch House was burnt down. Next morning the following article appeared in the Western Morning Newspaper:

"Two Brigades Fight Fire Berrynarbor Hill House Destroyed - Outbreak starts in thatch".

"Known to thousands of visitors, and situated on the top of Berrynarbor Hill, North Devon, the picturesque Bessemer Thatch House was destroyed by fire last evening. The damage is estimated at nearly £1,000. The lower portion of the house, with its modern interior, is owned by Canon Jolly of the Deanery, Southampton. Every summer he visits the place and has done so for a great number of years. At the time he was not in residence, but the news of its destruction was conveyed to his wife, who told the Canon, who, it is understood, had left hospital only yesterday after an operation. The higher portion of the Thatch is owned and occupied by Miss L.C. Veale, head mistress of the Berrynarbor Council School. She was at home at the time."

"Spark from Chimney? It appears a spark from a nearby chimney caught the thatched roof on fire shortly after five o'clock. The first to notice the thatched roof on fire was Mrs. D. Toms, who lives almost opposite [Dormer cottage], and she at once sent for Ilfracombe Fire Brigade. Men in the village also noticed smoke coming from the thatched roof, and with buckets of water endeavoured to put the blaze out, but it spread so quickly their efforts were ineffective. They removed all the furniture of the both sections. Ilfracombe Fire Brigade under Officers Westaway and Webber, were quickly on the scene and began to pour water on the blaze. In the meantime, Mr. F.J. Richards, a county councillor of the district, had arrived on the scene, and immediately sent for the Barnstaple Rural Fire Brigade, which arrived some time after under Capt. F. Parker."

"Water from stream. The Barnstaple Rural Brigade, with their powerful engine, pumped water from a stream down the village, while men of the Ilfracombe Brigade worked very hard in throwing off the burning thatch. Among others who rendered great help were Sergt. Hulland and Cons. Munton and Northey of Combe Martin. Up to a late hour the brigade were still at work, but were expected to finish about midnight, as they had to take the thatched roof completely off."

Bessemer Thatch was originally three separate cottages, Nos. 47, 48 and 49, with Little Gables, No. 50, on the corner. The Watermouth Estate Sale of August 1920, with completion date of 25th March 1921, states:

Lot 52
All those Four Cottages, Gardens and Premises,
adjoining Lot 51, being Nos. 46, 47, 48 and 49, in the occupation of
Messrs. Kemp, Bowden, Hicks and Stapledon as Quarterly Tenants

Canon Jolly became the sole owner following the fire and arranged for the rebuilding of Bessemer Thatch, alas without thatch! He remained as the owner/occupier right up until his death in 1972.

Bessemer Thatch was then bought by the Delve Family, Ron and Marian, Dora and Granny Gray. They modernised the entire building reopening it as a private hotel and restaurant, which they ran very successfully until 1990 when they moved to Yeoford and Heather and Les Levi took over. Heather and Les held the reigns until late 1997, when it was taken over by today's owners, Wendy and Colin Applegate.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 2000

P.S. I am sure that everyone who visited 'A Country Collection' held at the Manor Hall on Saturday and Sunday, 6th and 7th May, will endorse my thanks to Judie Weedon for the immense amount of work and effort she put in before, during and after, to ensure that it would be successful, and thanks to husband, Ken, who carried out the wiring and lighting.

Illustration by: Nigel Mason

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW - NO. 64

Berrynarbor Road, Watermouth

Taken by William Garratt, the Bristol Photographer, around 1907 and given the number 67, this photographic postcard shows a 'dingle' type carriage stopped beside the Water Fountain before continuing on into the village. The fountain, given by Mrs. Bassett of Watermouth Castle bears the following inscription: "June 22nd 1897 This Fountain was erected by Mrs. Basset of Watermouth in Commemoration of the 60th Year of the Reign of Queen Victoria. She wrought her people lasting good June 22nd 1901 "

On close inspection of this picture, the chain with a metal drinking cup can be seen hanging down on the right-hand side of the fountain. All that remains today is part of the chain and the fixing point. Water was free-flowing through the nozzle at the front into the trough for horses and overflowing water drained off through the back and into the stream behind. So the water was continually changed and fresh.

The roof of Watermouth Castle Saw Mills can be seen just behind the occupant of the dingle. The road to the left took traffic towards the Castle and Ilfracombe, whilst on the right it would then turn immediately left, hugging the coast. The 'new road' was built in 1919 because of the large landslip at Golden Cove. Note the dusty state of the roads which remained as 'rolled stone' until the introduction of tarmacadam around 1919.

I should like to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to Neil Morris for all the effort and work he put in as Chairman of the Millennium Committee and I feel sure that everyone is proud of our Millennium Fountain in the Square. Also to our hard working Editor, Judie, without whom there would be no village newsletter!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 2000

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO.63

Whitecote, 33 Pitt Hill

"In Berrynarbor 21" is yet another fine photographic postcard taken and published by William Garratt, the Bristol photographer.

Whitecote was described in the 1920 Watermouth Estate Sale as: "LOT 62", "All that Slated Cottage, Stable, Trap House, Piggery, Potato House, Large Garden and Premises situate and being No. 33 Pitt Hill, in the occupation of Mr. W Nicholls as a Quarterly Tennant. Note: the garden of this Lot is a very fine building Site. The Apportioned Tithe on this Lot is 1s. 9d. This Lot gets its Water from a Tap in the road."

At the sale on 17th August 1920 at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, the cottage was sold for the relatively high price of £260 with completion on 25th March 1921.

Externally the front of Whitecote has seen little change since the picture was taken c1908 and the cottages on Hagginton Hill can just be seen in the background. William Garratt, quite unusually, took two pictures of Whitecote and for this reason I often wonder if it was where he possibly stayed during his visits from Bristol on his motorcycle and sidecar, to take and sell photographic postcards of our village.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 2000

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 62

Christmas at the Manor Hall

I managed to find this photographic postcard at the Exeter Postcard Fair in November. The writing on the back states 'Berrynarbor, Nr. Ilfracombe Devon Christmas 1922?' indicating it was taken at that time, which can be confirmed by studying the boot-type footwear being worn. I am hoping that some of our 'younger locals', those closer to 90 years, can identify one or two of this large group in fancy dress at the stage end of the Manor Hall. My thanks to Lorna Price and Ivy White who were able to tell me that Albert Richards of East Hagginton Farm can be seen on the left [under the 'N' of No. 4] and Blanche Dummett, who lived at South Lee, can also be seen on the left wearing a white bonnet and holding a wand, four to the left of Albert. Lilly Huxtable [nee Richards] is to the right, sitting behind the Charlie Chaplin figure. Lorna was also able to confirm that the picture would have been taken around 1922 from the appearance of Lilly, John Huxtable's mother.

The second picture shows Christmas Festivities in the Manor Hall around 1946, with Bill Huxtable sitting at the top of the first table. Bill has identified the person next to himself as Gary Huxtable, with his late brother Ivan [Aggie] next but one. To Aggie's right are Kenny Richards and Brian Irwin. Others identified are Rita Smith and Brenda Leyton on the right- and Francis Thorne, son of Percy Thorne who lived at Wild Violets before the Songhursts.

Both these pictures will unfortunately lose clarity in the printing process, so I plan to arrange for enlarged copies to be displayed in the Post Office Stores. If anyone can add more names, please do so or call in and see me. Thank you.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, December 1999

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 61
Beech Lea, Berrynarbor

This view taken by William Garratt about 1904 shows Beech Lea, built in 1902 by Goss's of Combe Martin for the Rev. Ernest George Hibbert and his wife. Their two children, Ken and Iris, were born whilst they were living here. When the Hibberts left, around 1921, the Rev. John Horndon Parry MA, an ex British Army Padre in India, and his family moved in. Miss Parry, their daughter, lived there until her death in the late '70's. Beech Lea was built as, and has always been considered, 'a desirable gentleman's residence', with its own tennis court, extensive garden and glass houses.

Sandy and Anne Anderson moved here from Bishops Stortford in Hertfordshire in 1984, with their four children - David, James, Seonaid and Pippa. Sandy, past Managing Director of Coutant Lambda in Ilfracombe, was recently promoted to work for the parent company here and internationally.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1999

* It is becoming increasingly difficult for Tom to maintain his articles and new information on local history and any help from villagers' archives to assist with future articles would be extremely welcome.

If you think you could help, please contact either myself [883544] or Tom [883408]. Thank you.

Judie Weedon - Editor

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 60
Heanton Hill, Berrynarbor

The first of the photographic postcards was produced by E.A. Sweetman & Son, Limited of Tunbridge Wells around 1926, and shows Heanton Hill, as well as Pitt Hill leading up to the centre of the village. The picture - taken from 'Turn Around' at the top of Rectory Hill - shows, in the centre, the rear view of what was then the Old Post Office, Pitt Hill, and which was rebuilt in the late 20's or 30's to form Langleigh Guest House and Lee View, shown in Sweetman's second view taken around 1950.

Also seen in the second view is the rear of 37 the Village, the home of Vic, Nita and John, and behind the roofs of The Lodge and Fuchsia Cottage. Note how in the second picture Heanton Hill has become Hagginton Hill, the name we all know today. North Lee Farmhouse and outbuildings can be seen at the bottom of the Hill and note the large haystack in the corner field, where today we find Lee Haven.

Careful examination of the two pictures reveals that apart from the extensive alterations to the Old Post Office to form Lee View and Langleigh Guest House, very few changes at all were made between 1926 and 1950.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1999

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - No. 59

Caving in Berrynarbor

Many people reading this article may not realise that here, in Berrynarbor, we have an extensive cave system known as Napps Quarry Cave. An iron gate was placed over the entrance in 1973 by Bideford College Caving Group with materials supplied by Bob Richards. John Bowers and members of the Westland Caving Club had previously carried out a full survey and their report appeared in 'The British Caver', extractions from which I give below and I am most grateful to Bob Richards, and John Bowers, for their help with this article.

"The entrance passage is about 3' high x 1 ' wide, after a few feet a gated side passage on the right leads one to the rest of the cave. After a few feet the way on is down a short slide the bottom of which forms a junction with a rift passage. A tiny stream flows in this passage, after rain its flow is equivalent to a domestic tap. Turning into the left-hand series the way on is through an angled rift and some low smooth muddied crawls. After 40' the passage heightens and enters the 'Upper Chamber' which is 40' long, 4' wide and 6.5' high for most of its length. Mud floor and evidence of bat habitation, so careful if you sit!

"Returning to the junction and entering the right hand series, the rift section alters to the 'Squeeze' at which point you may well think you have reached the end of the cave and in the next few moments you will probably wish you had! This 10' length of passage is passable only via its vertical upper section, which is slightly wedge-shaped, being no more than a foot wide, at the top it narrows to less than chest size beneath. Your perseverance here will be rewarded by the formations beyond and the thought that you have to do the damn thing again to get out! From here one moves to the luxury of an 8' by 3' stal coated passage. The tiny stream runs into a pool and then disappears under a false floor of stal, at which point we enter the 'Hall' or 'Crystal Hall'. This extends 40' over a large expanse of stal flow and several bosses which have inevitably become rather muddied, some of the stalactite formations show signs of vandalism. The end of the Hall lowers to a height of 3 or 4'. On the right is a low alcove containing small formations and some aragonite crystal growths. From this point one can see the 'Canal', a miniature passage with many helectites growing from the roof all mirrored perfectly bur the surface of the dead still water. Bending under the left wall of the Hall, one enters a low wide passage with silt floor extending for some 65' before reducing in cross section. This part of the cave is very highly decorated with numerous pure white aragonite crystals in the form of clumps of long slender fingers." John Bowers concludes: "Napps is a cave which can be attempted by cavers of any experience and makes a very rewarding photographic trip. Anyone becoming stuck in the Squeeze can be supported from beneath and lifted free of the narrowest section." Tony Oldham of The British Caver states that 'the formations are unique in this country and well worth protecting."

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, April 1999

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW No. 58
Farming to Building Contractor

Our picture, taken during the summer of 1952, shows Lester Bowden standing beside the corn binder being driven by a youthful Maurice Draper at Higher Capel Bridge, Sloley Farm. The binder being used was already 40 years old [c 1912] and was one of the first to be used in Berrynarbor, shared between the Bowden's [Sloley] and the Rice's [Bodstone Barton]. Farmers, note that it was a right-handed binder, originally used with a very long pulling pole with a horse on either side, and then converted in the late '30's to be used with a tractor. The tractor, again one of the first to be used in the village, was a Standard Ford obtained around 1938. Lester Bowden had taken over Sloley Farm from his parents, Jim and Mary Bowden. Lester's wife, Elizabeth, was one of the farming Rice family from Bodstone Barton.

Maurice attended Berrynarbor School from the age of 6. Miss Veale was the Headmistress and she lived at Little Gables, on the corner next to the school, and Muriel Richards was teaching the juniors at this time. Maurice can remember a large number of evacuees coming down during the War, in particular two boys, Fred and John Wignall, who stayed at Sloley Farm and had come from Bethnal Green, London. Fred Wignall, being the same age as Maurice, joined him in his class. At this time, the School had approximately 40 children, of which half were evacuees from London and Bristol. When he was 11, Maurice transferred to Combe Martin School and went to live at Hammonds Farm with Claude and Gladys Richards.   He left school at 14 and went to work for them for seven days a week and received 7s. 6d. per week, with free board and lodging.   When he was lucky, he would have a few hours of free time on Sundays!   He remained with them until he was 17 when he returned to Crofts Lea and began work as an apprentice motor mechanic for Percy Norman of Kingston Garage, Combe Martin.

Conscription came and Maurice joined the Royal Engineers. Most of his two years was spent in Germany, in the Ruhr Valley, Essen, Dortmund and Cologne, in the railway construction squadron repairing railway lines damaged during the War. On his return, he worked for about two years with Lester Bowden at Sloley until Lester retired and the farm was taken over by Major Biggs. Maurice continued to work for Major Biggs for another 21 years, most of which was spent at Trimstone Farm, West Down.

In 1954, when he was 25, Maurice married Maud and their wedding took place at St. Peter's. They had two sons, Brian and Tony. Around 1973, Maurice decided to leave farming and began building, initially in a small way but the business grew ever larger over the years, with his two sons joining him. Maurice's Building Contractor and Plant Hire business became so successful that in October 1988, two pages of the North Devon Journal were taken up showing him as the NHBC Award Winner for Homes of Quality and Excellence. The article included a picture of Maurice with his 'team' of Ray Toms, Andrew Wheatley, Richard Leak, Brian and Tony Draper, Cedric Berry and Steve Seldon many of whom you will know. It was the first time that a North Devon construction firm had won such an Award.

My sincere thanks to Maurice for all the help he has given me with this article and for the loan of the pictures of Albert [Bert] Jones and his sister Edie, who lived at Forge Cottage. Bert and Edie were shown in the postcard in my article in the December issue of the Newsletter.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, February 1999

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 57

The Lodge

This picture of The Lodge was taken by Garratt around 1907, just a few years after it was built in 1904. The Lodge was built by the Reverend Reginald Churchill for his relatives, possibly his brother, as a 'gentleman's residence' and the master carpenter in its construction was A. Jones, who left his name on one of the large roofing trusses. Kelly's Directories of 1914 and 1919 inform us that the then owner-occupier was a Miss Hutchinson but by 1926, ownership had passed to Charles T. Fishe. On his death, it passed to Charlotte Josephine Fishe, followed by Mrs. Grace Beatrice in 1935 and Charles Conibear in 1939 and later to Lorna Esther Irwin.

During World War II, families - probably service families - were accommodated to recuperate, and Doreen Prater has met some when they have returned to see the Lodge and the village. Percival Arthur Norman, Motor and Garage proprietor of Combe Martin purchased the Lodge in December 1944, and Doreen says that it was Norman who first opened it as a guest-house. He remained there for about 15 years before it was taken over by the Larkins, who occupied it for another 15 years until Alan and Doreen, and their three children, Andrew, Richard and Judith, moved there from Reading in 1976. With Doreen's fine cooking, the business prospered and they had a large extension put on at the rear of the building in 1977-78 and a granny wing for Doreen's mother in 1986-7. In 1994, with Judith assisting, they opened a licenced restaurant, but then due largely to Alan's failing health, they sold the Lodge to its present owners, John and Joyce Mabin in September 1996.

John and Joyce have discovered, due south of the Lodge, the original cast iron water pump which drew water from a depth of around 10 to 14 feet. It was probably the source of water for The Unicorn, which was demolished some time before the Lodge was built, somewhere between 1898 and 1904. John and Joyce would welcome any information on the water pump or The Unicorn Inn. The last proprietor, listed in White's 1850 Directory, was Richard Smith and I hope to write about the Unicorn Public House in a future issue.

I must thank Bob Richards who, following my request for information on the Fire-Bomb Shower mentioned in the last Newsletter, called in just before Christmas. He informed me that during the last war he carried out duties as a fire/bomb watcher up at Berry Down and could not recall any bombs being dropped anywhere in Berrynarbor, but had seen bombs dropped over Holdstone Down. He had recollections of bombs being dropped on a village near Winkleigh [airfield] and I was then able to determine that the village in question was almost definitely Merton. Thanks, Bob, and thank you for the information you gave me on the Caves near Knapps, about which I shall be writing in the future.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1999

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 56

Berrynarbor Village and Post Office

In my collection, I have two cards of the same view, both produced by Francis Frith & Co. Ltd. The first, shown here, was taken in 1911 and shows from the left, 38 The Village [Forge Cottage], where the Jones's lived in 1911 and their son, Albert, is seen sitting on the wall, whilst his sister, Edie, is standing by the gate. Next door, No. 37, is where John, Vic and Anita live. Note how the centre windows are blocked in, probably from the time when there was a window tax. The last house on the left was, in fact, the Post Office and when sold at the first Watermouth Estate Sale on 17th August 1920 for £350 was described as:

Then, on the right, we have 39 The Village [Fuchsia Cottage] the home of Michael and Joy Morrow, which in the same sale sold for £325, described thus:

The second Frith card was taken in 1939 and there is very little change with the exception of the conversion of the Post Office to form Langleigh Guest House with its much higher roof lines, taking in a second floor of guest bedrooms, and the disappearance of the Post Office and steps and just beyond Lee View, now the home of Alan and Linda Denzey.

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, November 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 55
Berrynarbor Mill

This photographic postcard was produced by Garratt around 1907. In the last century, and into this, most farmers would reap their corn and after being left in 'stooks' to dry, it would be collected in and threshed to remove the grains of corn, which were then taken to the local miller for grinding into flour. The majority of mills in this part of North Devon were all driven by water, and Berrynarbor Mill [Mill Park] was an Overshot water wheel constructed of cast iron with wooden buckets and the wheel diameter was 20 feet and 60 inches wide, as shown above.

From records in my possession, I can list the Millers from 1850 [White's Directory] up to 1939 [Kelly's Directory], as follows:

In 1946, at the end of the War, the Mill House was converted into a dwelling house and the Mill Wheel dismantled. In the Watermouth Sale of 1924, Lot 6 describes: 'Berry Mills, a very desirable Grist Mill and Dairy Farm comprising slated Dwelling House containing:- Sitting room, Kitchen, Back Kitchen, Dairy and Four Bedrooms, with Garden, Mill and Water Wheel, Tiled six-stall Shippen, Dutch Barn, Tiled Piggery, Tiled Shippen, Slated two-stall Stable, Tiled Calf House and about 16 acres 2r 29p of Rich Watered Meadow, Pasture and Woodlands, as now in the occupation of Mr. C.H. Burgess as a Yearly Michaelmas Tenant.' James Chugg was the purchaser.

We are informed by Watermills in North Devon 1994 [obtainable from John Gale, Moorings, Watermouth] that Mill Park House was originally the mill. At that time, Mill Park Cottage, built in 1671, was the farmhouse. The tithe records show that in 1841 a miller and malster lived in the farm house, thus indicating that a mill was then in existence. It also states 'During World War II, the PLUTO [Pipe Line Under The Ocean] operation utilised the water power of the mill'. The book is very interesting and well worth reading and gives details of Old Saw Mill, Berrynarbor, and Harpers Mill, Sterrage Valley.

The picture above shows Mrs. Ernest Smith feeding her ducks and chickens. The Smith's were the millers from c1906 until c1921. I wonder if anyone has a more recent picture of the mill and water wheel prior to its removal in c1946. If so, I should very much like the opportunity to see it.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 54
St. Peter's Church

The view of the Church exterior was taken by the Bristol photographer, Garratt, around 1912. Note the single chimney extending from the east end of the South Aisle, which came from the small fire that the Bassetts of Watermouth Castle had in 'their corner' of the Church, with its high pew ensuring them privacy from the other occupants. The Bassetts would be driven to church on Sunday mornings in their carriage and pair by their coachman, they would then enter direct through their own south east door and the entire congregation would all be standing until the whole family were seated on their cushioned seats! Within the church was a separate place for the Watermouth staff and at the end of the service, the congregation was expected to remain standing until the Bassetts had all left to make their return journey to Watermouth Castle. Indeed, the family had their own railed-off burial plot, still to be seen at the east end of the churchyard.

The church of St.Peter, consisting of chancel, nave, southern aisle, north transept and western tower - one of the finest in North Devon, an imposing 96 feet high - is approached by a cobbled path from the 17th century lych gate, with its inscription: 'March 13th Ano Dmi: 1671 George Westcott Rector. Thomas Tucker, John Reed Church Wardens'. Of the original Norman church, only the north transept and the base of the font remain - the top section of the font is said to be a Medieval addition. The church was repaired in 1862 and in 1880, with the chancel restored in 1889. In 1883, a memorial stained glass window - to Miss Bassett of Watermouth Castle - was fitted at the extreme west end of the south wall. In I887, the roofs, tower and belfry were restored and new oak tower and vestry screens erected, entirely at the expense of Mrs. Bassett, lady of the Manor.

The interior photograph shows, to the right, the entrance door and raised pew section of the Basset pew, and the oil lamps used prior to the installation of electricity.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW No. 53
Harpers Mill, Sterrage Valley

Card No. 440 was produced by Twiss Brothers, llfracombe, around 1908, and clearly shows there had been two largish cottages, one of which remains roofless, possibly the result of a fire to a cottage that was probably thatched.

The second was taken by Francis Frith around 1911 - note that Hagginton Hill can just be seen top centre of the card.

The final picture was produced by Hawke of Helston around 1927 and is one of the best photographic views of Harpers Mill that I have ever seen. Harpers Mill was sold in the Watermouth Estate Sale of 17th August 1920 as Lot 4 'Smythen Farm' and listed: ' 1097 [part] Old Cottage and Garden at Harpers Mill'

Nearby was a stone quarry and Mrs. Alma [Granny] Gray [nee Huxtable] explained to me some time before her death in 1986 at the age of 97, that the 'modem and larger section' of the Chapel [late U.R. Church] had been built from stone from the quarry near Harpers Mill, and that her father had blown up the slate stone using tubes of gunpowder that he made up as fuses which he then stuck into piles of gunpowder which he poured out under large rock faces in the quarry. He would light the fuse and run like hell!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 52
Watermouth Bay

With Tony Beauclerk's article on 'Pluto', I have chosen Watermouth Bay views for this April Newsletter. The first view would have been taken in the early thirties by an as yet unknown publisher. This publisher produced cards all over the West Country and possibly all over the U.K. The view shows Watermouth Harbour with the main road from Ilfracombe on the left and the boat-house which is just opposite the impressive entrance to Watermouth Castle, with large pillars, each topped with a large stone ball. On the right can be seen the Squire's footpath gate to cross the main road to the harbour. The Martello Tower/Dovecote can just be seen towards the end of the headland on the right, probably the oldest still standing building/structure at Watermouth.

The second view was taken by T. Sargeant for Frith's of Reigate around 1939 and shows clearly the footpath gate from the Castle in the centre. This is probably how the harbour would have appeared to the army officers and men billeted at Watermouth Castle during the Second World War.

The third view, produced by Miller and Lang as one of their National Series of Photographic postcards, would have been taken just after the Second World War, This, to me, is the most interesting as it shows to the right a weird metal-type structure which could easily have been something to do with the pipeline set up. I wonder if any of our older readers can throw any light on the subject, or maybe you have an old photograph or drawing of the activities that took place at the Harbour? If you do, it would be lovely if you could share them with us. My particular thanks to Tony for his response to my request.

Finally, on ornithology, can anyone tell me where all the great-tits have gone? We have, as always, many blue-tits, the occasional cole-tit and this year, as well as finches, a pair of siskins feeding on the peanuts we hangout in feeders. I just wonder if anyone in the village has seen quite regularly great-tits feeding in their gardens. Please me know.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 51
Steerage Valley - 18031

This photographic postcard by Hawke of Helston would have been taken c1925 and shows just how well the sloping fields beyond Riversdale, Brookvale and Woodvale were maintained. It is of particular interest to me since it shows the roofed tap-house which provided water to all those cottages shown here, even if the occupants had to cross the lane to collect their supply of water! This particular tap-house has long since disappeared and I should welcome any information on when it was finally demolished. We are fortunate, however, that the other tap-house in the Steerage Valley remains - the one lovingly restored, preserved and owned by Vi Kingdon just opposite her cottage, No. 71.

It is strange in this day and age to go back to the mid-20's and realise that most households were fetching water from individual taps located all round our village. Those that can be readily located are on Hagginton, where there were at least two sited in the retaining walls of the properties on the west side. In the village, tap-points can still be seen in the Church wall and on the wall opposite the School. I wonder if any of our older residents remember any others - if you do, please let me know.

These two pictures were taken by Miss Theake when she lived at Woodvale around 1927-31. The first shows the peaked roof of the tap-house whilst the other shows part of the tap-house and another shed/stable opposite Woodvale. Does anyone know what this building was and for what it was used?

Below is a photograph taken around 1968 by Colin Harding which shows his daughter Lisa at the entrance to Glenbridge. Glenbridge was built for Colin and Doreen and they moved into their new home in 1965. [Note Bill Gammon's Hillman Minx parked outside Brookvale.] It would seem likely that both the tap house and the stable-type building were removed to make way for the bridge entrance and parking for Glenbridge. What is of greater interest, are the buildings shown beyond Riversdale on the west of the 'marble' topped wall of the bridge, and why do they not show up in the picture taken by Miss Theake so many years earlier?

May I, through the Newsletter, ask Loma Bowden if she can throw any further light on the questions I have raised? A reply, perhaps in the next newsletter, would be very much appreciated

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1998

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 50

For this Newsletter, I have chosen a postcard showing the village from Duckywell at the foot of Pitt Hill, published by J. Welch and Sons [JWS 1684] of Portsmouth c. 1908-1909. On the left we see Rose Cottage', formerly known as No. 32, Duckpool, and in the occupation of Mr W. Street when it was sold as Lot No. 63 in the Watermouth Estate Sale of 17th August 1920, with completion date 25th March 1921. Complete with large garden and orchard, the Lot fetched £290. On the right are the two cottages formerly known as Nos. 30 and 31, Ellis Cottage, and in the occupation of Mr W Sloley when they were sold in the same sale for £205.

Standing out at the top of Pitt Hill, the then newly built 'Lodge' can be seen, whilst to its left and in the following order can be seen the back view of the Chapel, St. Peter's Church and the 'Old Court', formerly known as 'Berrynarbor Cottage', and later just 'The Cottage'. The foreground is now the site of 'The Haven' and its garden.

As can be seen from this particular view, little has changed over the past century and Berrynarbor can be thankful that the Parish, District and County Councils have all worked with one accord in maintaining a 'Green Belt' around the centre of Berrynarbor, and I know most residents hope that this policy will continue into the next century.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 49
Harvest Festival, October 1st 1949

This photograph shows Valerie Bowden passing locally produced vegetables, fruit and flowers down to her husband, Len, at the foot of the Church cobbled steps. Valerie tells me that every year they would set out together from Ruggaton Farm with their horse and trap/long tailed cart, stopping at several houses, collecting gifts of local produce, to add to their own, for the Harvest Festival Service at St. Peter's Church.

The gentleman seen standing at the entrance to the lych gate is the Church Warden, Jim Ley, who lived at Hole Farm just beyond Goosewell on the Old Ilfracombe Road. I believe that the car seen on the left is an Austin Seven Ruby saloon, complete with its AA membership badge and registration number BTT 203. I wonder if anyone knows to whom it belonged? As to the present day, the completion and gathering of the harvest was always celebrated in the Church, and more recently followed by harvest celebrations in the Manor Hall, taking the form of a meal followed by entertainment from all sections of the community, involving both young and old.

The second picture shows Combe Martin farmer, Dick Lerwill and his wife en route to Ilfracombe Market at the tum of the century, Entitled: "A Bit of Old Combe", it is one of a series of cards produced and sold in Ilfracombe, both before and after the First World War. I have included this card as not only could it have been taken within the Parish of Berrynarbor, but also the horse and trap look very similar to those belonging to Len and Valerie Bowden.

My thanks to Valerie Bowden for the photograph and the information.

View No. 46 - North Lee Farm, April 1997

I have recently received yet further information relating to the above article, this time from Tony Beauclerk, who lives in Colchester, and I was able to put him in touch with Rosslyn Hammet [nee Huxtable]. Tony contacted me first on the telephone and then, at my request, sent the following information for which I thank him, If anyone has any more news, please contact me.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1997

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 48

"Camping at Berrynarbor"

With all the sun and warm weather we have been having, or should I say not having, I decided that for our summer [August] issue I couldn't find a more appropriate photographic postcard than the one shown here.

William Garratt took this picture probably around 1937-39, just prior to the outset of the Second World War. We see that at that time, camping was carried out in the field we now know as the 'Berrynarbor Playing Field', whilst in the field beyond and opposite Middle and South Lee Farms, a car and early caravan can just be seen! This shows that even before the last War, tourism was taking an ever increasing role in the economy of Berrynarbor, and making inroads into the traditional farming that had been the mainstay of the village since the Middle Ages.

The Rectory was built in 1860 as a replacement for the very small Vicarage/Glebe House situated where 'Wild Violets' now stands. The last vicar to occupy Glebe House was the Rev. T. Slade Gully who died on Whit Sunday, 27th May, 1860, having been Vicar for 35 years. His Obituary in the North Devon Journal of 31st May, confirms that the Glebe Estate was of 160 acres and that Berrynarbor was thought to be one of the richest livings in Devon"! His Successor, the Rev. Walter Fursdon, must have largely paid for the new Rectory and he moved into it upon its completion later that year. The Rev. Fursdon remained in office as the Vicar of St. Peter's until his death on 2nd March, 1876. His wife, Sarah Anna, died on the 7th March, 1915, outliving him by almost 40 years.

In response to my request for further information relating to North Lee Farm [View No. 46 - April 1997], I received a very nice letter from Rosslyn Hammet [nee Huxtable] who gave me the following information:

I was very interested in the picture of 'North Lee', my home for 30 odd years. My great grandfather, Richard Huxtable, and his wife, Susan, were tenants there. My grandfather, William Huxtable, and his wife, Isabella, bought 'North Lee' from Watermouth Castle for £1,100, as stated, and farmed there until he became ill with cancer. He died in 1938. At the start of his illness, my father Stanley Huxtable took over the farm and it continued as a farm until approximately 1948, when he too became ill. My mother tried to continue, but when father became bed-ridden, she had to sell some of the fields and the livestock, but she kept the field known as 'Pitt Meadow' [later sold to the Council for sewerage purposes] and the fields immediately behind the house, plus the various outbuildings and large garden in the front. The garden was in use as a Tea Garden' during the summer before the War. The garden was known to me as 'The Moostage' [not sure of the meaning or spelling] and a 'Hayrick' always stood in one corner. My father died on the 21st February, 1950, and my mother and I continued to live at North Lee, the ground at the rear was let to Gordon Newton and as time went by we sold the garden and outbuildings to Tom Greenaway. I left Berrynarbor in 1969 to live in Ilfracombe and my mother sold North Lee to Edna Barber in 1973. My father's sister, Lilian Chapple, also lives in Ilfracombe and we think the little boy in the photograph is either Alfred Huxtable, youngest son of Richard and Susan, or John Snell, who was also brought up by them when his mother died.

Rosslyn Hammet [nee Huxtable]

Thank you Rosslyn for taking the time and trouble to respond to my request.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, June 1997

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 47
Castle Hill, Berrynarbor. 52733 and Castle Hill Farm, 6.

The first view shown here of Castle Hill was published by E.A Sweetman & Son Ltd. of Tunbridge Wells and is postmarked 1953, but probably taken around 1951-2. It shows to the left Moules Farm with its farm buildings in the foreground, whilst the white fronted building is Castle Hill Farm with Castle Hill Cottages, with their gabled windows, continuing as a terrace up Castle Hill.

 

The second photographic postcard was produced by William Garratt just prior to the outbreak of the Second World War [c1938-9] and is postmarked 1941. The card not only shows the best old photographic view of Castle Hill Farm but also the Richards' farm, Moules Farm, can be seen on the left. From the way that the windows are all wide open, the photograph must have been taken on a particularly hot summer's day! !

 

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1997

I am delighted to have received information about North Lee Farm following my article in the last issue, which will be included in the August Newsletter.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 46
In Berrynarbor - North Lee Farm

This fine photographic postcard taken by the Bristol based photographer, W. Garratt, c. 1904-1906, shows Mrs. Huxtable feeding the chickens outside her North Lee Farmhouse. North Lee Farmhouse is situated at the foot of Hagginton Hill and is where Edna Barber now lives, just across from Sally Barten's 'Berry Home'. The outbuildings and old 'linhey', complete with slate slab steps, were removed about the time Sally's home and the cottage next door were built, in the late 70s, early 80's.

North Lee Farm was sold at the first Watermouth Estate Sale on Tuesday, 17th August, 1920, at Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, with the completion date of 25th March, 1921. The following particulars were then given:

 

LOT 22 [coloured Blue on Plan] North Lee, a Very Excellent SMALL HOLDING, Comprising: A Slated Dwelling House, convenient Outbuildings, Meadow, Pasture, and Arable Lands, containing together about 36a. Ir. 16p. in the occupation of Messrs. R. Huxtable and L.J. Bowden as Yearly Lady-Day Tenants, and in hand.

The apportioned Tithe on this Lot is £6.5s.6d The Timber to be taken in the sum of £3.0s.0d. There are two Water-taps on this Lot.

Mr. Huxtable purchased Lot 22, North Lee, at the Sale for £1,100.0s.0d. and their line of ownership continued right up until the last listing that I have, that is Kelly's 1939 Directory. Can anyone tell me when the Huxtables moved out and of any subsequent owners until Edna moved in back around 1970?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1997

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 45
Watermouth Castle - A.R. Quinton

For this first issue of 1997 I have chosen this card of a water colour painting by A.R. Quinton of Watermouth Castle, published by J. Salmon. As I have already given descriptions and history of the Castle, on this occasion I am going to deal with the artist.

Alfred Robert Quinton was born in Peckham, London, on the 23rd October, 1853, the youngest of seven children. His headmaster at Hornsey School set him on his artistic career, when at the age of 14 he was presented with a book written by George Barnard entitled 'Drawing from Nature - instruction in sketching from elementary studies to finished views'. He gained his award for 'working hard' and it was a treasured possession for the rest of his life.

Quinton studied first at Heatherley Arts School, then worked as an engraver in London, but soon took to painting seriously, concentrating on oils and signing himself as A. Quinton, and thereafter as ARQ or A.R. Quinton. His last known oil painting was dated 1885, and from 1874 he was a regular exhibitor at various London societies and galleries. It was only later that he devoted his time to water colours and black and white drawings.

In 1880, Quinton had a studio in Fleet Street, London, but later that year he moved to Lincoln's Inn to a studio he shared with an artist of his own age, Henry Bailey, who specialised in water colour landscapes. Quinton was a very well travelled man, collecting many sketches and lantern slides throughout Europe. His trips to Spain in the 1880's were particularly pleasurable to him, and it was while returning by ship from Malaga that he met Elizabeth Annie Crompton, whom he married in May 1885 at Bolton. They lived first in Holloway and then East Finchley before eventually settling in Salisbury Avenue, Church End, Finchley, in 1912. This was a large eleven-roomed house, set amongst fields, which remained in the Quinton family until 1974! Quinton was writing about his travels in England and abroad using his illustrations whenever possible, thereby consolidating his reputation as an artist. As he travelled everywhere by bicycle, his title 'Lands End to John O'Groats on a Bicycle' was very apt for an article serialised from 4th May to 12th October, 1895, in the Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. It recounted the journey undertaken by Quinton and his friend 'B' [probably Henry Bailey] in 1894. To quote: "Our idea was to tour leisurely from end to end, to enjoy the varied scenery which our native land presents in such variety to those who care to see it, and to study the life and character which we might meet on the road." This journey was typical of the Victorian desire to travel and see the world first hand. Quinton provided 71 illustrations for 'The Cottages and Village Life of Rural England' by P.H. Ditchfield, published in 1912. Some of these scenes were later produced as postcards by Raphael Tuck & Sons.

A.R. Quinton would be away from home for about three months of the year, and the whole family would often spend holidays 'on location' seeing the countryside by bicycle. The rest of the year he would work in his studio. His water-colours were used in many books and magazines, and he was amassing a large number of paintings which were commissioned and sold privately in the 1870-80's. At that time he would be lucky to receive 15 guineas for a painting, but by 1920 his larger canvases, 4' x 5' would fetch about 100 guineas!

It was in 1911, at the age of 58, that his association with J. Salmon began when Mr. Salmon noticed a display, in the Art Department of Selfridges, of cottages and country scenes in Worcestershire. The South Downs, New Forest and North Devon were areas first covered for the commercial market, and from then on Salmon took whatever Quinton could produce. He was slightly restricted during World War I, but come 1919 it was 'all systems go' again! His postcard work was devoted almost entirely to England and Wales, with the exception of a set of 12 Edinburgh scenes, and in 1922, a set of 12 scenes of Ostend. He painted up to the day before his death, at the age of 81, on 10th December, 1934. On his easel was an unfinished view of Sidmouth. There are several cards which seem to have been commenced by ARQ but underneath his signature are the initials of C.T. Howard, so one can only presume there were several unfinished Quinton paintings.

I believe that there are over 1800 water colour paintings produced by A.R. Quinton, all of which give the appearance of a colour photograph, such was his ability. The card of Watermouth Castle, in common with several others of North Devon, was probably painted by him around 1912-13, just prior to the First World War. Many postcard collectors collect just A.R. Quinton cards which cover the entire United Kingdom, and my collection contains a large number depicting scenes in Devon and Cornwall.

A Happy New Year 1997 to all readers.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1997

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 44
Berrynarbor Sterrage Valley

 

This photograph shows Len Bowden with the 'jingle', or trap, he used for delivering milk around the village. Originally, milk in large churns would have been carried in the jingle with Len, or members of his family, using quart, pint or occasionally half-pint ladle measures to pour the milk into the jugs or containers provided by the customers. Here we see Len with the jingle in the Sterrage Valley, just outside Pink Heather, with two of Mrs. Songhurst's regular visitors sitting on board, complete with at least two crates of bottled milk. The pony pulling the jingle is probably Little Doll, as mentioned by Lorna and Valerie Bowden in their article on Len in Newsletter No. 12 - June 1991.

It is rewarding to know that both the farming families of Bowden and Richards had dairies providing milk to both Berrynarbor and Combe Martin right up to recent times. When Inge and I moved here from Ilfracombe in the early '70's, milk was still being delivered around the village by both Claude Richards and Michael Bowden. Later, Michael's brothers Ben, Paul and finally Peter delivered the milk until the Dairy closed down around July 1991, some months after Len's death at Ruggaton Farm on 20th March.

My particular thanks to Len's wife, Valerie, who had to put up with me posing all kinds of questions to her one November afternoon, and for the loan of this and other pictures.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 43
Berrynarbor Home Guard circa 1940

The photograph below of the Berrynarbor Home Guard was taken around 1940, with the entire contingent grouped outside the Manor Hall. Whilst I cannot at the moment give any details of their drills or activities, I am hoping that one of the surviving members will come forward and give me the information, so that I can publish it in a subsequent issue.

 

Below are the names of those 'present and correct', which to the best of my knowledge are right, but I really should welcome any corrections, additions or further information.

From left to right:

• Top Row - Jim Floyde*, Lionel Dummett*, Frank Challacombe, Frank Brookman* ???, Ron Toms, Denzil Draper*, Commander Peachey, Alf Brooks*

• Middle Row - Sydney Dummett*, Gordon Boyen*, Jack Snell* , Jerry Bowclare*, Reg Huxtable*, Eddy Nicholls, Arthur Jones* , Alfie Leaworthy, Dick Floyde* ? Penhale*, Fred Huxtable*, Jack Draper*

• Seated - John Vallance, Percy Thorne*, ? Osborne, V.C. [?l, ? Hacker [?], Sgt. Newman*, Sid Perrin*, Walter Snell*, ???

* Deceased

If anyone can correct my articles on the Post Office or can add information, especially those ex-owners still living in the village - Keith and Maureen Cooper, Betty Davis, etc. please do get in touch with me, I should love to hear from you. Thanks.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 42
Berrynarbor Post Office [Part II]

 

In this view of "Lower Town Berrynarbor.98." taken by Garratt, we can see clearly the new Post Office, 62 Silver Street, shortly after it had opened in 1921. Sub-Postmaster, Tom Hicks, died at the age of 61 in August 1922, his wife Sarah took on the position and Kelly's Directory of 1923 names her as " Shopkeeper and Sub-Postmaster with letters via Ilfracombe". Mrs. A.J. Huggins took over around 1926 and was still listed in Kelly's of 1939 as "Draper and Postmaster" and Keith Walls recalls stories of three Huggins girls helping at the Post Office at the start of the War, and talk of delivering about 100 telegrams a day!

My sincere thanks to Vera Pearse [nee Rudd] who wrote to me from her home in Buckfast, South Devon, with the following information:

My father and mother moved to the Post Office early in the war, about 1940-41. They had previously had a business in Ilfracombe. Both Devonians, Bertram and Mabel Rudd ran the Post Office for some years; I was married from there - to an Air Force pilot [also a Devonian] - and our first child was born at Briar Cottage in 1947. I can remember my father taking telegrams around the area and mother trying to fill the shop with things for children - it was a difficult time then! My mother was friendly with Miss Street, who lived with her brother in the Sterridge Valley. They went to Chapel in the village and mother joined the W.I.

Just a few thoughts, sorry I can't recall correct dates.

Vera Pearse

Keith Walls speaks of a Captain Snoddy then taking over as Postmaster, followed by a Mr. Scrivener. Mr. and Mrs. Roland Squires, I believe, then took over for about four years before handing over the reins to Betty Davis [c1958-61]. The next incumbents were Keith and Margaret Walls who ran the Post Office and shop for some 16 years until about 1977 when Keith and Maureen Cooper took over. Maureen was the Postmistress until 1982. They were followed by Dennis and Sylvia Barton who left in 1986 to move to Tonbridge. For the next two years, Colin and Nicky Purdue delivered the papers and dealt with the post. Maureen and Graham Jones took over and ran the business until September 1994 when the present owners, Nora and Alan Rowlands moved in.

I apologise for any inaccuracies and should welcome any corrections to dates and names and any other information relating to our Post Office.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 41
Berrynarbor Post Office

The first entry relating to post in any directory for Berrynarbor is that in White's 1850 Directory for Devon, where the following information is given: FOOT POST: Geo. Burgess, to Ilfracombe. Foot post indicated that the named person would accept and deliver letters/post received from the named Postal Office, in this case Ilfracombe. George Burgess, a resident of Berrynarbor, would walk to Ilfracombe first thing in the morning and then walk back to Berrynarbor to deliver any post/letters he had picked up. He would walk in again in the afternoon, taking the post/letters from Berrynarbor for onward consignment.

 

Roger Morgan in his book on Devon Post Offices stated that the Berrynarbor Village Post Office commenced in 1855 and remains to the present time. This is reinforced by Kelly's 1856 Directory, Billing's Directory, the Post Office Directory of 1866, Morris's Directory of 1870 and Harrod's 1878 Directory. Each gives William Hicks as either 'the receiver', the 'Sub-Master' or the 'Post Master'. William Hicks continues to be mentioned as Sub-Postmaster in all directories up to Kelly's 1902, when the following entry is given: "Post: M.O. 7 T.O., T.M.O., S.B. Express and Parcel Delivery & Annuity & Insurance Office - William Hicks, sub-postmaster. Letters through Ilfracombe, received at 8.45 a.m., despatched at 5.00 p.m. He is also listed as Parish Clerk and tailor.

William Hicks was born in 1825 and died at the age of 80 in February 1905, having served as sub-postmaster for over half a century, and Church/Parish Clerk for 54 years! His wife, Jane, died a year earlier in 1904 at the age of 85, and their son, Thomas born in 1861, took over as sub-postmaster, a position he held until his death in August 1922. 

The picture, again taken by Garratt, shows the original Berrynarbor post Office which was at the top of Pitt Hill as you enter the village from the west. Sadly, it was included in the first Watermouth Estate Sale on 17th August, 1920, and under Lot 48 sold for 350 guineas, a figure that the then tenant and postmaster, Tom Hicks and his wife Sarah, could not afford. "All that Dwelling House, Post Office, Shop, Outbuildings and Large Garden, situate in the Village and No. 36, in the occupation of Mr. T. Hicks as a Quarterly Tenant. The Apportioned Tithe on this Lot is Is.6d. There is a Water-tap on this Lot." Tom and his wife were, however, able to afford the 155 guineas for Lot 57, "A Slated Cottage, Piggery, Yard and Garden Situate in the Village and being No. 62, in the occupation of Mr. C. Huxtable as a Quarterly Tenant, Lots 52 to 57 inclusive all get their Water from Taps in the public road."

This then was the start of our present Post Office, which will be my subject for the next edition of our Newsletter. In this connection I should be pleased to receive any information from our present and any of the past postmasters. I should particularly welcome the opportunity to be able to list, with dates, all postmasters/mistresses since Tom Hicks.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 40
Watermouth Harbour and Smuggling

The first picture, taken c1920 by Garratt shows two sailing brigs, a yacht and speedboat with Watermouth Castle in the background, the Castle boathouse and another brig and a collection of small rowing boats. The second picture was produced by J. Vince at the tum of the Century, and shows both harbour and foreshore in a completely natural state, with no obvious signs of commercialism other than the wooden keg [cask or barrel] in the foreground.

 

 

Graham Farr in his book on "Ships and Harbours of Exmoor" states:

"Watermouth, the next creek, beautifully landscaped, has had a rather busier past. Here, too, was the inevitable lime kiln and, besides materials for this, there were coal and other goods for the nearby village of Berrynarbor. No doubt its magnificent isolation encouraged the free traders for it was certainly not a solitary instance when, in 1785, George Fishley, the Tidesman, discovered a 96 gallon cask of rum in an outhouse. Even the humble culm for the kiln provided opportunities for defrauding the revenue before the repeal of the coat duties in 1831. For example, in 1813, it was found that a cargo of culm, liable to low duties, discharged by the sloop "Watermouth", was being sorted and the large lumps put aside for domestic use, e.g. the scalding of milk, heating laundry irons, as well as house warming. By the time Fishley had reported to his superiors at Ilfracombe and returned with orders to bring back the disputed fuel, it had been spirited away. Again in 1839, Richard Cutcliff fell foul of the Customs Officers when he took sheep to Swansea for sale in the new smack "Watermouth", without coastal clearances or paying the necessary light and harbour dues.

"In 1866 one Symons was asked to build a new cargo sloop for the Squire, Rev. Arthur Crawfurth Basset, and decided to build it on the spot at Watermouth. The Little "Cruiser", originally 32 tons, was lengthened and rigged as a ketch in 1881, making regular channel crossings with coal and occasional cargoes of local produce, until she sprang a leak and sank five miles off the coast one stormy night in 1897. Meanwhile, pleased with the workmanship in the "cruiser", Squire Basset asked Symons to build him a small steam yacht and so, in 1868, the "Puffin" was launched. The Squire's earlier yacht, the "Waterlilly", was then sold to John Dovell of Combe Martin, by whom she was used as a fast market boat.

"Small sailing craft used the harbour at Watermouth for many years later, the last occasions being between the wars. "

Since Graham Farr's description, Watermouth Harbour has taken on a completely new role as a sheltered and safe haven for countless yachts and pleasure craft, particularly in summer. From late September until late spring, the majority of them are hoisted out of the water and 'parked' in neat rows on the hard-standing and alongside the old disused road. In addition, the Harbour has been able to boast of not only having a Harbour Master, Micky Irwin, but also a flourishing Yacht Club, complete with Club House. A small amount of fishing still takes place on a casual basis and some sea fishing trips during the season. As can be imagined, countless amateurs go rod fishing from the many rocks that surround and enclose the sheltered harbour.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW No. 39
Berrynarbor Temperance Hall c1931

 

This rare photograph provided with information by Mrs. Vera Lewis, shows the fine long building of the Temperance Hall, just at the back of Orchard House, which can be seen in the centre of the photo. Sadly, as mentioned in previous articles, all that remains of the Hall today are parts of the now crumbling walls with grass growing where floors had previously been.

Below is a report from the Ilfracombe Chronicle c1900:

BERRYNARBOR - A very successful entertainment was given in the Temperance Hall in aid of the Church Choir Fund. The hall was well filled, and all seemed to enjoy the performance, which was entirely by local talent. The first, or musical part, reflected great credit on Miss Bray, the organist, who must have given a great deal of time and care in training the choir so perfectly, the plantation songs were much admired. The second part consisted of amateur theatricals, the numerous scenes being thoroughly enjoyed. The actors, who had been trained by Mr. Brown, did full justice to their several parts.

The Programme was:

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1996

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 38
Soldiers Watermouth Cottage [Hospital]

 

This photographic postcard was taken by the Ilfracombe Photographers, Phillipse & Lees on 14th November, 1914, outside Watermouth Cottage [the present Miss Annear's house up the private road opposite Sawmills]. On the 24th October, a total of 50 wounded First World War Belgian soldiers had arrived in Ilfracombe. The 10 worst cases were treated at the Tyrrell Hospital, 23 were treated at Westwell Hall, Torrs Park, 5 at the Cliffe Hydro and the 12, seen here, at Watermouth Cottage Hospital, at the invitation of Lady Penn-Curzon of Watermouth Castle.

In this view, Lady Penn-Curzon can be seen in the centre of the back row, whilst one of the soldiers has her King Charles spaniel on his lap. The majority of the soldiers remained here for the duration of the War, and in Ilfracombe many of them were joined by their wives and children, and a special class was set up for the children. Sadly, Camille Kerckvoorde, one of the worst cases at the Tyrrell, died at the end of July, 1915, and his well-attended funeral was held on 29th July. Flowers were sent over annually to be placed on his grave in the Parish Church until just a few years ago.

I have three different cards showing this Watermouth group, as well as others showing wounded soldiers outside the Tyrrell Hospital and the funeral of Camille Kerckvoorde. I should be very interested to hear from anyone who has any further information on the Cottage Hospital at Watermouth.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1995

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OLD BERRYNARBOR & COMBE MARTIN - VIEW NO. 37
Combe Martin Harbour [c. 1908 B. Gribble]

 

This fine photographic postcard shows from left to right:

The Clyde Puffer "Snowflake", built in 1893 by Burrell & Son at Hamilton Hill, Glasgow. "Snowflake" was bought by Captain Claude Irwin of Combe Martin a few months after his ketch sank on 28th October, 1897, off Hangman, after a collision with a steamboat! Between 1893 when she was built until purchased by Captain Irwin, she had a somewhat chequered history, being launched as the "Maid of Lorn" and wrecked off Iona on 17th April, 1896. She was recovered and re-registered in Glasgow by George Webster who sold her to the Hayle, Cornwall, flour merchants, Hoskin, Trevithick & Polkinhorne. They registered her at Penzance renaming her after their best brand of flour "Snowflake", but finding her too small they sold her to Captain Irwin of Combe Martin. "Snowflake" plied the Bristol Channel for the Irwins, taking fruit and vegetables and strawberries grown in Combe Martin over to South Wales and bringing back coal. On Sunday, 23rd August, 1936, she struck a rock in Combe Martin Bay and was beached at Watermouth Harbour. With the help of the salvage steamer, "Florence", she was refloated and towed into Ilfracombe Harbour two days later. Following repairs, she continued service until 1940 when with war restrictions she was sold to a Bristol based company and leased out to the Government as a water carrier. In 1946 she returned to Bristol and was sold for trading around the Greek Islands. In 1953 she was involved in a collision in the harbour at Piraeus and was last heard of at Split, Yugoslavia, in the 1960's.

The ketch "Jane", was built in Swansea in 1851 and bought by the Irwins in 1902. In September 1915, when on a voyage from Lynmouth to Newport with Captain George Irwin, she struck a rock near Nash Light and sank. The entire crew was saved by ropes thrown from the rocks.

The ketch rigged "Olive and Mary" was built by James C. Hoad of Rye, Sussex, in 1877, and served as a Brixham Trawler. It is interesting to note that on 8th April, 1899, she was reported disabled about seven miles off the North Devon coast. The Ilfracombe Lifeboat, "Co-operator No. 2" was launched just after 6.00 a.m. and found the "Olive and Mary" in a terrible state with only a jib, her sails, spare boat and compass having been carried away by the storm. She was towed back to Ilfracombe and in October that year bought by the Irwins. She was involved in a collision in the River Avon in 1905 and towed home by "Snowflake". Some seven years later in 1912, she was caught in a squall in mid-channel and limped home to Combe Marin but struck rocks below the Parade, and with the help of several boatmen and ropes, was pulled off and saved. The Irwins sold her to the local coal merchant, William Laramy, in 1924.

The ketch "Sir T.D. Acland" was built at Bude in 1861 from where she traded until she was wrecked in 1887. Saved and repaired, she was bought by George Irwin in September 1902, and joined the ever-growing number of ketches owned by the Irwin family.

The ketch rigged "Mistletoe", built in Plymouth in 1890 by Hawke Brothers, was bought by Thomas Ley of Combe Martin, who later moved with her to Porlock Weir, finally selling her to an Exeter boat-owner in 1927.

Finally, the three horses and carts shown here would have been delivering local grown strawberries to the boats for consignment to Wales and Bristol - there was a considerable trade of this nature. The lower slopes of the hills were devoted to market gardening, with large quantities of flowers, fruit and vegetables [particularly early potatoes] being grown, testament to the mild climate. Beyond the rough breakwater are the Laver-Stone and Camel-Rock at the foot of Lester Point.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1995

May I, on Tom's behalf, appeal to YOU ALL for old photographs, pictures or postcards of the village to enable him to carry on his series. Also, to bring to your notice the two evenings of "Local History on Screen" which Tom will be presenting for the Community College at Parracombe on Friday, 13th October, 8.15 p.m., and Kentisbury on the 20th October at 7.30 p.m.

Ed.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO.
Berrynarbor

 

This relatively modern postcard was produced between the mid '50's to early '60's and shows the asbestos-type house, Fuji, at the foot of Hagginton Hill. This was completely rebuilt and extended in the late 70's early '80's for Andy West, who now lives in the Old Rectory.

On the right we have Rose Cottage, which when sold with a large proportion of Watermouth Estate on 17th August, 1920, at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, appeared as Lot 63, "No. 32, Duckpool - an excellent tiled Cottage with large garden, orchard and premises". On the left can be seen Nos. 30 and 31, known as Ellis Cottage and then in the occupation of Mr. W. Sloley, which sold for £205. The houses on the south west side of Hagginton Hill were sold off in the same sale as Lots 65 to 73, House Nos. 17 to 29 inclusive.

An interesting photographic postcard which really shows the great change to that part of the village over the last 30 years, with more houses built on the north east side of Hagginton Hill and, of course, Lee Haven built by Bill Greenaway in the mid '60's. I should be very grateful if anyone can give me a more specific date for this photograph, and any further information.

Finally, may I again appeal for old photographs or postcards of Berrynarbor, or sadly there will be no further "Old Berrynarbor Views" - it's up to you all now. I don't mind carrying out the research and writing the article, but without your support this could be the LAST!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1995

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 35
"Man Harrowing Field" - Combe Martin

 

This view shows what many villagers may believe is Ron Toms in charge of a pair of horses harrowing the field which now forms the land on the Berrynarbor side of the Sandaway Camp site. The card was produced by Raphael Tuck & Sons as one of their many "Real Photograph" postcard series and is postmarked 19th August, 1931. I am grateful to Terry Babbington for the loan of the card from his collection and on showing it to Ron and Gladys, they at first thought it might be Ron. However, when I showed them the date, Ron told me that to the best of his knowledge, the man was Jack Williams and the fields at that time formed part of Newberry Farm. The road to Combe Martin is in the top right-hand corner and the gate to the field immediately in the right foreground, where part of a cart can be seen. If anyone, especially farmers, have any photos or postcards of old farming or village activities, I should be really pleased to hear from you.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1995

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 34
Sterrage Valley . 2. Near llfracombe

 

This very early photographic postcard was produced by A.J. Vince of Ilfracombe c1908, and has been taken from the rising bank, approximately where Pink Heather is today. Lower Rowes Farm can just be seen in the dell where the road turns to continue through the Sterrage Valley (and on up past what is now Venture Cottage and No. 77 - or to those ignorant, like the Editor, "Knackershole" and behind it can be seen the hedgerow lines of the steep track leading up past Woodlands Cottage and to Middle Cockhill Farm. Note the compacted and scraped state of the road and the tell-tale evidence of recent transport - horses!!

A.J. Vince was a talented photographer whose work unfortunately seemed unable to bring out the character obtained when a scene comes to life with the addition of children, groups of people or animals, as we see in the many pictures taken by Garratt. However, Vince took several photographs of Berrynarbor and an even larger number of Watermouth Castle, Cove and Caves, Broadsands and Egg Rocks. I should be particularly pleased to hear from anyone who has any of Vince's cards of the village.

Following my request in the December issue, Lorna Price has given me the following information about those who were lost in the last War:

• JANE MALCOLM lived with her parents at the Old Court and apparently fell from a balcony in Africa whilst serving as a Nursing Sister.
• Both PETER and TREVOR MEADOWS moved with their parents into Berrynarbor just prior to the start of World War II. Trained as pilots in the R.A.F at Chivenor, both sadly died in the Battle of Britain.
• ERIC ZAPLETAL came from Czechoslovakia and married a Miss Miller of Berrynarbor. He trained as a rear-gunner on one of the large R.A.F. bombers, and perished sadly in the same manner as so many rear-gunners.
• PATRICK THIRKELL attended Berrynarbor School and gained his D.F.M. whilst serving in the War.
• RAYMOND BROOKMAN joined the Navy and went down with his vessel, "SS Gloria", somewhere in Norwegian waters.

My thanks to Lorna for her help and if anyone else can add to this information, please contact me.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1995

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 33
Original Log Cabin, Watermouth Cove

Following my article in December on Watermouth Beach, I received a letter from Ian Lawson, who as a child had grown up at the Cove as his grandparents were tenants there for over 30 years until c1941. Ian tells me that they rented Watermouth Cove from the Penn Curzons and says what a beautiful place it was in those days and looking back on it states: "It was nothing short of paradise"

The Lovering's business at the Cove started with the wonderful old log cabin, where strawberry and cream teas were served. Outside on the grass were tables and iron frame chairs, whilst behind the log cabin a marquee was erected where visitors could have their refreshments if they wished. Much later the marquee was replaced by an asbestos constructed cafe and kiosk, where visitors then had to pay an entrance fee and could purchase sweets and cigarettes. Toilets were situated behind the cabin, complete with 'penny in the slot' brass lock machines. The car park was a small field, where the "In" and "Out" ramps are now, and beyond that was another field which curved around and stretched right down to the Harbour. This latter field was known as "The Warren" and was alive with rabbits and pheasants.

Ian's mother was a Lovering prior to her marriage, and Ian spent much of his childhood at Watermouth [from Easter to October] - and what a happy childhood it was! He can remember that two of the small boats that made trips belonged to his grandfather, Dick Lovering, who would row out from Combe Martin in the morning and back again in the evening. He would often go back with him and remembers stopping on the way to catch fish for supper!

In 1939, the Lawson's heard that War had been declared on a radio in a visitor's car. For a while the business carried on, but in 1940/41, the Army came and took over the place and at that point they decided to call it a day, particularly as practically all the catering equipment had either been pilfered or broken by the Army. The asbestos cafe was bought by someone in Berrynarbor, dismantled and reassembled as a small bungalow in Barton Lane, just up from the Church. Ivy White [nee Bray] remembers leaving school in 1939 and working all summer in the cafe as a waitress, serving strawberry and cream teas to all the visitors. Her first task each day was to walk up to collect the fresh clotted cream from the Watts's at Castle Farm [Lydford].

My thanks to Ian of Combe Martin for the above information and photographs.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1995

The signs on the side of the log cabin read: " TEAS PROVIDED" and "BAWDEN'S high class MINERAL WATERS made in our Factory, HORNE ROAD, ILFRACOMBE" and just look at those strawberries heaped on the two plates set before Ian's Great Grandfather, Irwin Lovering, taken c1900.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 32
Watermouth Beach [The Cove/ Smallmouth Bay]

 

I have chosen the first card not only for the fine views, but also for the greeting it conveys. The card was published by "The Knight Collection" around 1908 - no, not our North Devon Knight family - famous for their photographic views.

You will immediately note how open the Cove Beach is and the several rowing boats which were then largely used for rowing visitors over to Broad Sands beach and for viewing the caves, and sightseeing short trips around the bay. The Cove Beach became enclosed when the wall was built to give an enclosed pool of sea water, even when the tide was right out. I believe that this work was carried out just prior to, or after, the last War. Perhaps some of our older residents can remember when.

In the 1800's, visitors were drawn to Watermouth to view both Smallmouth and Briary Caves, and would have used the stone steps carved out of the rockface, as shown in the second card, posted in 1937 just after the coronation of King George VI. The steps are still there, reached by entering a small gate, although completely missed by most visitors as they take a walk out to the headland or bathe and build sandcastles beside the natural pool.

 

Wishing you all a great festive Christmas and a healthy New Year 1995.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1994

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 31

Miss Lilian Veale and Berrynarbor School

This month I am grateful to Vera Lewis [nee Ley], whose knowledge of Berrynarbor is so vivid and exciting, who came and visited us at Tower Cottage this summer. She gave me a picture of Berrynarbor School in 1928 and she could name every single child, except one, and where they were Iiving at the time. I hope to put this picture, together with the names [perhaps someone will know the missing one?] in the Post Office shortly. In the meantime, Vera has written the following memories of Miss Lilian Veale, Headmistress of Berrynarbor School for a total of 29 years, until her retirement c1950.

"I started school at Berrynarbor in April 1921, just as Miss Veale arrived from Yelverton. She was not very tall and had brown, wavy hair and a bright complexion. She taught me in classes V and VI, and when the large playground was opened in the mid-20's, we had a garden at the bottom for growing vegetables and flowers under her supervision.

"Miss Veale seemed good at everything - playing the piano for country dancing and training us for school concerts that took place in the Manor Hall. The front seats were always reserved for the so-called gentry. Miss Balkwill, who came from Hatherleigh, became Infant Teacher in 1927 and she lodged with my parents at Orchard House until she left the school in 1931. She and Miss Veale became good friends and always spent their week-ends together. When Miss Veale arrived to take up her post, she lodged with Mrs. Bray, who lived in Dormer Cottage [Miss Muffets] and later bought the cottage at the corner of Bessemer Thatch, naming it 'Little Thatch'. After the fire in 1937, Miss Veale renamed it 'Little Gables'.

"Miss Veale enjoyed politics and Berrynarbor Liberals gained a great supporter. Her hero was Sir Isaac Foot, who was a friend of her family. I left school in 1929 at the age of 14, and many changes took place after that. On my leaving, Miss Veale gave me a silver thimble for good needlework, and I still use it after some 64 years. "

In a tribute to Miss L. Veale, it was reported that the Chairman - Miss M. L. Richards - and Committee of the Berrynarbor Old Scholars Association were to be congratulated on the excellent way in which the arrangements for a social in her honour were carried out at the Manor Hall. The Hall was beautifully decorated with masses of tulips and narcissi that presented a festive arrangement.

 

Muriel Richards - Lilian Veale - Joan Wainwright

In his opening remarks, the Rector, Rev. H. Mylchreest, spoke of the high standard of efficiency the school had attained during the 29 years Miss Veale had been its Headmistress. She had entered wholeheartedly into its activities and the various organisations in the parish. During the War, a number of evacuees came under her care - she had been not only a mother to them but also nurse and friend. She had not been lacking in generosity, and had spared no pains in making their stay in the village a happy one, knowing that many were homeless and motherless. The Rector closed by stating that he was pleased that Miss Veale was remaining in the village and wished her every happiness and the best of health in her retirement.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1994

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 30
Berrynarbor Village - No. 7 Garratt

 

This view, taken yet again by Garratt around 1904, shows Jim Kemp outside his cottage - on the left No. 46. His wife was the village midwife around 1911. The man with the bicycle is Jim Hancock, who lived at 51 The Village [Tower Cottage] with his wife Meta, daughter Emma and son Denzil, who sadly died when he was only six years old. He is buried in the churchyard. Dormer Cottage [House], now Miss Muffet 's, was then a shop [note the sign for "ROBIN STARCH"] kept by Mr. Klee, of German extraction - it was said that his father came over with the German band that played every season in Ilfracombe. The garage and hay loft where the Bassett's horse-drawn carriage was kept when they attended church services can be seen on the left. Having been completely modernised in the late 50's/early 60's by Charles Leyton; it is now known as "Blue Mist" and is the home of Josef and Hedi Belka.

I am anxious to produce articles on both Sawmills and the Berrynarbor Trailer Park, Sterridge Valley, and would welcome information and any pictures relating to them. Thanks

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1994

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 29

Valentine's Day Celebration [?]
Manor Hall, 13th February 1923

 

I have only recently obtained this photographic postcard and I am hoping that some of our truly ' local' senior citizens can identify several of the many children and adults in this wonderful picture. I am justifiably always disappointed at the lack of response to sought-after information, but really hope that on this occasion you will contact me.

This leads me on to the second picture which shows the "Old Manor House and Manor Hall." This postcard was produced by Photochrom Company Limited of Tunbridge Wells about 1920-21, and it is interesting to note the differences from that of the present time. It can be seen that at the south end wall there were windows on the ground and first floor end wall. The east facing wall, roof and first floor remain identical, but on the ground floor the entrance door is on the left where, from the lintel marks, there had been an original window. Where the door is now, the wall had been completely filled in, under a very large lintel, indicating how impressive in size the original 'Elizabethan' entrance door(s) had been. The only difference in the Manor Hall is the gas light over the door, which looks similar to the lamp over the church Lych Gate at the same period of time [View No. 27, February Newsletter].

 

Inside the Manor Hall, a board states "The Manor Hall, Old Manor House & Parish Room were acquired for the people of Berry-Narbor in March 1947 by the Parish Council: Chairman: F. J. Richards, Esq. C.C. Clerk: C. N. Conibear Esq." Another small plaque requests: "Village Room Please keep this room tidy and replace the chairs when you leave Thank You August 1941"

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1994

The Manor Hall and Men's Institute 1992
Illustration by: Helen Armstead

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 28
Orchard House, Berrynarbor. 133 Garratt

Yes, this month we are back to one of Garratt's fine photographic postcards, probably taken in March or April c. 1930-34. I am able to say March or April because of the daffodils in bloom in the garden.

 

Judging by the shades of roofing tiles/ slates, it appears that Orchard House had been extended at least twice since it was built, the central section of one gable and chimney with two pots being the original building. The left section, complete with gable, and the right-hand lower out-buildings were probably added later. Orchard House has always been a private residence and did not form part of the Bassett's Watermouth Castle Estate, in line with other notable properties like Beech Lee, but sadly I have not found any mention of the house in any of the directories. I am thankful to the present owners [since January 1975], Toby and Joan Wood, who have kindly given me information and a guided tour of the House, gardens and remains of the Temperance Hall.

Orchard House was built by Tom Ley, Vera Lewis' s father, in 1926 and I am grateful to Vera for the following information. It was in 1926 that the Revd. Churchill had a chat with Tom regarding some property to be sold by the Rectory/Glebelands. This consisted of an old tumbledown barn with just walls and a roof that had not been in use for many years. To the south and west of the barn were orchards - hence the name Orchard House - whilst northwards at the rear stood the Temperance Hall, which had been the village hall used for dances, concerts, Bible classes, meetings, etc., until the present Manor Hall was built and opened in 1913. The Temperance Hall, built originally as stables/bar in 1727 and converted into a hall in the late 1800's, had a laundry house added on to the north end, complete with a furnace in a corner for heating the water and boiling the 'whites'. This was used by the Rectory for their weekly wash of clothes and there were two wooden wash tubs and two wooden mangles. Beyond the Orchard was a field named Broad Meadow. Whilst Vera can remember that her mother was not keen on the venture, her father thought there was great potential and agreed with the Revd. Churchill to purchase the barn, orchards and land. By March 1927, Tom Ley, with the help of men he employed, had converted the old barn into a six-bedroomed dwelling house with a bathroom and toilet upstairs and a large, cool larder to the rear. Vera can remember their family all moving from a small cottage with outside toilet and tin bath by the kitchen fire in Goosewell to Orchard House in 1927. She and her sister thought Orchard House was a 'huge mansion'. Tom Ley, a carpenter by trade, set up a sawmill beside the Temperance Hall. This was powered by a large engine and the Hall converted into a large carpenter's workshop with benches for working on and rafters for storing planks of wood. Ever industrious, Tom then built a blacksmith's workshop near the stables. One stable was home for Prince, the carthorse, and other sheds were used for carts and chicken houses. The front orchard was cleared, apart from 3 apple trees to the left of the house, and Tom enjoyed laying out a formal front garden with lawns and flower beds on either side of a path to the entrance door. An even larger patch was cleared and fenced off for growing vegetables and three greenhouses for growing tomatoes, cucumbers, etc., complete with large rainwater holding tanks, were constructed. Quite near to Broad Meadow he made a tennis court where anyone, locals and visitors, could play a game whilst Prince grazed in the meadow! The Ley family catered for holiday guests and welcomed their first party in June 1927.

Sadly Tom Ley died in 1931, after a short illness, and all the business side had to be sold. Vera, her sister, Evelyn, and their mother continued living in Orchard House and both sisters were married from there [Evelyn's wedding was described in Newsletter No. 5 - April 1990] and Vera believes that her daughter, Wendy, is the only baby to have been born at the house. During the war the family took in evacuees - some nice and some not so nice. One couple remained with them for three years. In 1944, Vera, her husband and her mother moved to a large guest house in Ilfracombe, letting Orchard House to Mrs. Charles Conibeare. In 1950, a compulsory purchase order was made on Mrs. Ley for Broad Meadow for the purpose of building the four council houses [for which she was paid £120]. A year later, in 1951, Mrs. Ley died and Vera and Evelyn decided to sell the house which was purchased in 1952 by Mr. and Mrs. Fogg for the sum of £3,000, including the Temperance Hall which was still standing!

Warmly remembered by Vera is the invitation of a couple of years ago from Toby and Joan for herself and Ivy Richards to revisit Orchard House for tea and a stroll around the gardens.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1994

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 27
The Lych Gate, St. Peter's Church

 

This photographic postcard was taken by a photographer working for the Photochrom Company Ltd. Of Tunbridge Wells, about 1920-21, and is one of approximately ten postcards produced by them at that time.

A Lych Gate is a wooden structure with a roof and open sides placed at the entrance to churchyards to provide space for the reception of a coffin. The word 'lych' is Saxon and means a corpse. The lych gate here at Berrynarbor is all the more important because of the slate inscription set into the roof gable over the gate which reads:

March 13th
Ano Dm. 1671
GEORGE WESTCOTT
Rector
THOMAS TUCKER - JOHN
REED - CHURCH WARDENS

The Rev. George Westcott was Rector here from 1630 until 1674 and he, like most North Devon clergy, was a true Loyalist. His second wife, Grace Wychalse, was the sister of John Wychalse, the Parliamentary Commissioner given the task of ejecting Loyalist clergy!

Berrynarbor, and St. Peter's Church in particular, can be thankful that through this union of marriage, he escaped being sequestered and this is possibly why the church's fine 16th Century plate has survived and the church did not suffer so much destruction as others.

Within our church, on the south wall of the chancel, is a memorial slab to: "Mary, only daughter of George Westcott, Pastor of the Church, and of Frances his wife, died 1648, aged 7." It bears the following inscription:

Returning to the present time, the only sign of the large lamp over the lych gate is a leaden plug set into the hole where formerly a small gas pipe protruded giving the former lamp 'life'. I wonder if any of our senior residents can remember who used to light it, and whether it was used on weekdays as well as Sundays?

Now we are lit again and I hope, like me, you have seen and enjoyed the introduction of the floodlighting of the tower and the brightening up of our village centre at night. My thanks to all responsible.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, February 1994

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 26

Berrynarbor Congregational Chapel

Sadly, no photographic or printed postcards appear to have been produced of our fine Congregational Chapel itself, but the card I have chosen shows part of the south side and front, as well as Hagginton Hill - complete with the wall-enclosed Grattons - was produced by Phillipse & Lees of Ilfracombe c1903-4. Note the number of 'missing' properties compared to today's view.

 

Resulting from my plea for information in the last Newsletter, I am very grateful to Vera Lewis [Ley], who now lives in Epsom, for the following:

"The first Congregational Church [or Chapel as it was called locally] was built about 1841. It was a small, non-conformist church erected by local men who, fired by emotion and the open-air preaching of Wesley's friend, George Whitfield, gave their services free. Mr. Jones played the melodeon and Sanky hymns, such as 'Rescue the Perishing', were sung. Sadly, after a few years the Chapel became unsafe.

In the 1880's, Ilfracombe Congregational Church provided the funds for a new Chapel and School Room. This was a much larger building, with tall windows. The pews were well-made, solid and uniform and one wonders who the workmen were who fashioned them. The first deacons were five local men some of whose names have a familiar ring - Jones, Richards, Bowden - and Sunday Services were usually taken by a lay preacher, with the occasional visit from a Preacher. The Rev. Hayter, who was based at West Down, might come once in 3 or 4 weeks, when he would be given tea at one or another of the members' cottages. The small collection was used to pay for oil lamps and heaters.

Harvest Festivals were the highlight of the Chapel year. First the decorating of the Chapel with fruit, flowers, vegetables, corn and even bread shaped like sheaves of corn. Before the Harvest Service there would be a lavish tea in the school. Farmers' wives would 'take a table', providing crockery and food and I remember the silver tea pots! Devonshire split or cut rounds with jam and cream straight from the dairy and delicious block cake would be served. "

I recall Alma Gray, or Granny Gray as she was fondly known, telling me, at the grand old age of 97, that "At one time there was a rift in the congregation of the Chapel with half the members going with my grandmother to a room over what is now the Post Office in 'Lower Town ' and the other half remaining in the Chapel with my great-uncle, Tom Richards. The Chapel was built from stone from the quarry near Harper's Mill at the far end of the Sterrage Valley."

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, December 1993

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 25

Watermouth Castle, Ilfracombe

 

These two postcard views of Watermouth Castle were produced at the turn of the Century by Stengel & Co. of London, and printed in their works at Dresden in Saxony [Germany]. As I have given information on Watermouth Castle in View No. 8 [December 1990], I shall quote from various guides and handbooks of that time.

In Kelly's Directory of 1902, it says: "Watermouth Castle, the seat of Mrs. Basset, lady of the manor and principal landowner, is an embattled mansion of stone, erected about 1825 and delightfully situated on an eminence sheltered by woods and overlooking the Bristol Channel. Immediately below is a picturesque cove, which, at high water, presents the appearance of an inland lake."

Murray's Handbook for Devon & Cornwall (1859) gives: "Watermouth [A.D. Basset, Esq.] , a Gothic building unfinished but commenced about 40 years ago by the father of the present proprietor. The situation is romantic, and the grouping of the neighbouring knolls and ridges strikingly beautiful. The Castle stands at the edge of a green basin, little raised above the sea, but screened from it by a natural embankment of rocks. The richest woods enclose this vale, and a stream runs sparkling through the grass. This beautiful spot is viewed to most advantage from the sea, as the feudal-looking mansion and its verdant pastures are thence seen in connection with the bleak coast of Exmoor and rocks of Ilfracombe."

Banfield's A Guide to Ilfracombe, Lynton and Clovelly, c1845, states: "Watermouth, the property of Joseph Davie Basset, Esq., possesses many extensive and interesting views, and is an object of no small attraction. The rocks at Small-mouth, which can only be seen at low water, justly claim a considerable portion of the stranger's attention and the distant view of Combmartin bay gives to it a character differing from most other points; the approach to which, is by a short deviation from the path, after passing Watermouth House, by crossing the rustic bridge. "

 

"The view, on approaching Berrynarbor, is one of great interest, and the church, which bears every appearance of antiquity, adds much to it. Near it is the old manor house, formerly belonging to the de Birys, but now converted into a farm-house. Its exterior is ornamented with several shields, bearing the arms of Plantagenet, Bonville and other persons of distinction. At the extremity of the parish is a farm called Bowden, celebrated as having been the birth place of John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury, in the year 1522, where his family had resided for many generations."

Since 1978 the Castle has belonged to Richard Haines and he and his family have worked hard and unstintingly into building it into one of the country's top Leisure Complexes, of which we should all feel justly proud. We thank Richard for putting us firmly on the map and wish him and his family well for the future.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, October 1993

For the next Newsletter I should like to write an article about our Chapel and would welcome any information and old pictures from any source. Thank you. T.B.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 24

18029 Berrynarbor [Moles Farm]

 

This photographic postcard was produced by Hawke of Helston and was probably taken around 1929. Whilst living at Helston, Hawke was a prolific photographer throughout Cornwall and venturing up as far as Exmoor and Lynmouth. This card shows Moles [or Moules as it is now] Farm, Castle Hill Cottages and Hammond's Farm at the top right.

The first record for Moles Farm that I have come across is in Billings 1857 Directory, when we have the entry "James Richards, Fmr. Moule's", and then in the 1883 Kelly's Directory: "Mrs. Elizabeth Corney, Fmr. Moles Farm", followed by Mrs. Prudence Corney in the 1893 and 1897 Kelly's Directories. The Farmers at Moles Farm given in the 1902 and 1930 Directories were John and Harold Richards respectively.

Moules Farm is today being farmed by Norman and Angela Richards, who took over from Norman's parents, Ivor and Ivy Richards, when Ivor retired in 1970. Ivor, himself, took over in 1943-44. It is great to think that the Richards family have been farming at Moules/Moles Farm, first as tenant farmers and then owner farmers, for well over a hundred years. It is also rewarding to see yet another generation, Angela and Norman's son David and his wife, Julie, helping to run the farm.

In the first Watermouth Estate Sale at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, on Tuesday, 17th August, 1920, bidding for "Moules Farm" was brisk and it reached the then high price of £2,000. The description was:

Lot 13 - Moules Farm

A very superior dairy farm and sheep farm comprising a
Dwelling House, Outbuildings, Cottage, and about 93a [acres]
1r [rod] 16p [perches] of Meadow, Pasture and Arable Lands
in the occupation of Messrs. J. Richards, V. Richards, L. Bowden and Nicholls
as Yearly Lady-Day Tenants.

 

The second picture was produced by Raphael Tuck between 1935 and 1939, and this card was actually sent by a visitor staying at Moles Farm in August 1939.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1993

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 23
The Smallmouth Caves & Breary Cave, Watermouth

 

With Victorian Week coming up again soon in Ilfracombe, I have chosen this particular card produced by B & R' s Camera Series way back in 1904. It includes fine pictures of the original Victoria Pavilion and Bandstand before modernisation in 1922 and again in the mid-sixties, completely desecrated a fine piece of architecture, albeit popularly known then as the ' cucumber frame'! The top view shows the many sailing boats and brigs in the inner harbour and I have this same view as a separate card in colour.

Most of you will have already noted the incorrect spelling of Briary Cave and misprints of this kind were quite common at that time. Indeed, I have one card depicting Barricane Beach at Woolacombe entitled "Babbacombe" and it probably ended up being sold down there in South Devon!

The Caves at Watermouth were quite famous at the latter end of the last century and the early part of this. Admission fees were charged to the many visitors who came to Watermouth by horse and carriage, or in some cases by donkey, as shown in Old Berrynarbor - View No 3 "Miss Leworthy & her Donkeys" in the February 1990 issue.

 

The second card, which shows top right ' The Hangman Hills, Combmartin', was again published by B & R' s Camera Series and the card is postmarked February 15th 1904. I believe this has been taken on the old coast road [now a footpath] just above the footpaths to Broadsands and Golden Cove, but I await your views as to whether you feel has been taken some distance beyond Sandy Cove Hotel, towards Combe Martin. Over to you?

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1993

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 22

 

This month's postcard view [No. 51) is of St. Peter's Church taken by John William Garratt. Following my request in the last issue for information on the Rev. Churchill, I am indebted to Daphne Challacombe and her aunt, Vera Lewis [Ley] for the picture of Rev. Reginald Churchill and the following information:

"The Rev. Churchill came to Berrynarbor in 1884 and was our Rector for 54 years. My mother, Beatrice Bant, came from Cornwall in 1902 and was employed as parlour maid at the Vicarage until she married my father, Thomas Ley, in 1905. I think they employed four servants, one being the Cook, and also three gardeners to look after the Vicarage gardens and Glebelands. They were given a half day off a week and always went to church on Sunday evenings. They had to be back at the Rectory by 8.30 and if they had any boy friends they could serve them with cocoa in the kitchen before they had to leave promptly at 9.00 p.m.

"My first memory of the Rev. Churchill was seeing him arrive at Goosewell on a visiting trip on a motor bike and sidecar. He was dressed in black leather and goggles and I thought he was some kind of an airman! His only daughter, Miss Elsie, would ride round with him - she was always about with "Papa". Sadly, Mrs. Churchill did not enjoy good health so she preferred to live a very quiet life.

"I remember that later Miss Elsie taught us in Sunday School and one annual Sunday School treat was held in the grounds of the Rectory with a lovely tea served on the lawn. It always seemed to be sunny weather and the Rector would give 1/- [5 new pence], 6d and 3d to the winners of the various races held.

"In the mid 1920's he became the owner of a large black saloon car and Mr. Ernest Richards who lived with his wife in the cottage opposite Fuchsia Cottage, near The Globe, was the chauffeur. In fact Ernest Richards is John Huxtable's grandfather. In those days the Rector would always be classed as 'gentry ' [with the same ranking as the village squire] and he would receive approximately £1000 per annum, which would come from land tithes. In those days this was a very large amount of money.

"The Rev. Churchill would often take morning prayers and Scripture lessons in school. He always seemed very happy to do so and made sure we all learnt the Ten Commandments. I am sure that his teaching has guided us throughout our lives. He was a good friend to everyone and set such an example on the way to live. "

Thank you, Daphne and Vera, for your help. I am sure that there must be others of you out there who could add more about our Church, Vicarage and the Rev. Churchill and his family. Please, please contact me, there can only be further historical news with your help.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1993

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 21
Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Tons and their children outside their cottage, 68 Lower Sterrage

HAPPY NEW YEAR 1993

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1993

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BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 20
Sterrage Valley, Berrynarbor - 61

 

This view, yet another by the accomplished Bristol photographer John William Garratt, is postmarked Berrynarbor S.O. September 9th 1904 - the S.0 stands for Berrynarbor Sub. Office of the Main Post Office at Ilfracombe.

The children are all probably from the Street family, living at 71 Higher Sterrage Valley, which is, of course, where Vi Kingdon lives. The two girls are Dorcas and Tilley and both are wearing the same clothes as in Garratt's photograph No. 57, shown in our Newsletter No. 5 way back in April 1990. The young boy could be any one of the four Street boys - John, Edward, William or Richard.

The photograph was probably taken in late September, or very early October, from the way the smoke from the household fire is lying. The bridge opposite Riversdale Cottage [65-66 Lower Sterridge] can just be seen behind the girls and beyond are the cottages Brookvale [67 Lower Sterridge] and Woodvale [68 Lower Sterridge].

It is interesting to note that from the sale of the first part of the Watermouth Estate - held on 17th August, 1920, at the Bridge Hall, Barnstaple, with completion set for "Lady Day", 25th March, 1921 - Riversdale and Brookvale were sold as a single lot No. 76: Two Good Tiled Cottages, Large Gardens and Premises, Nos. 65, 66 and 67 Lower Sterridge Valley in the occupation of Messrs. P. Jones as Quarterly Tenants. They sold for £265, whilst Woodvale [68 Lower Sterridge Valley], in the occupation of Mr. B. Toms as a Quarterly Tenant and billed as Lot No. 77, fetched £210.

In 1923 Dan Jones lived in the first cottage and Mr. and Mrs. Loveday-Jones lived next door.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1992

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 19

1. 'Briary Cave, Watermouth' Ilfracombe No. 7275

This picture painted by the accomplished West Country artist, R. Warren Vernon, for the postcard publishers, Raphael Tuck & Sons, was one of their 'oilette' real art series.

 

On the reverse side, the description reads: This grand natural tunnel is reached from Holesborough and by the fern covered headlands of Widmouth Head and Burrow Nose. Sea-birds build here, and delicate ferns find a footing on the rocks, the seaward opening of the Cave framing a magnificent view of open water.

2. 'Small Mouth Cave' No. 16401 by Stengei

This very old picture of Small Mouth Cave was taken prior to 1903-4 as the postcard has an undivided back allowing only the address on the reverse side. The card was printed in common with most cards of this time in Saxony [German] with this particular card being printed in their 'Works in Dresden' .

 

3. 'At Watermouth' No. 72

This picture was taken by Garratt of Bristol and is a particularly good photograph of Small Mouth Cave taken probably prior to the First World War breaking out in 1914.

 

4. 'Watermouth Caves', Martin Cross Series No. 6

This photographic postcard was taken by the Minehead Photographer, J. H. Martin Cross A.R.P.S., around the mid-thirties. The picture frames the 'Egg Rocks' at Broadsands as well as the Hangman Hills above Combe Martin stretching upward towards Holdstone Down.

 

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, September 1992

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 18
"In Berrynarbor", Garratt No. 6

This is one of Garratt's first photographs of our village and shows part of Silver Street, or 'Lower Town' as it was then known around 1904. On the right we have Sam Harding's blacksmith shop and it is quite likely that the person shown carrying a sack is Sam Harding himself. Just beyond is Berrynarbor National School built in 1847 to accommodate up to 15 children!! Perhaps when Mr. James Gear and Mr. George Hicks were the school masters, it was standing room only! The population of Berrynarbor has never been higher than the 1850 census giving 899 inhabitants. Particularly note the fuchsia hedge and railings outside the school and, of course, the fine school bronze bell in its distinctive housing on the roof.

Beyond the school can be seen 60 and 61 Silver Street, the latter with the two dormer windows now being the home of Jim and Betty Brooks. The lady in the long, white dress, typical of Victorian times, is not known.

In the next newsletter I am hoping to give more information on the school, and if anyone can help with pictures of any of the classes from 1900 up to the present time, I should be grateful if they would contact me direct.

I am closing this newsletter's article with a copy of one from the Ilfracombe chronicle, published on the 11th July, 1896, which you may find interesting.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage - July 1992
Tel: 883408

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 17
Bowden Farm, Berrynarbor

 

This seemingly rare photographic postcard of Bowden Farm has the following printed on the reverse:

"John Jewell, Lord Bishop of Salisbury, was born here In 1522, educated Barnstaple Grammar School and Merton College, Oxford; 1560 appointed Bishop."

Bowden Farm is situated at the South East end of the Sterrage Valley, overlooking Ruggaton Farm, where, of course, the present Bowden Family has been farming for several generations.

John Jewell, undoubtedly the most celebrated person from Berrynarbor, was born on 24th May, 1522, and died as Bishop of Salisbury at Monkton Farley, Wiltshire, on 21st September, 1571, in his fiftieth year. After receiving his early education at Kentisbury Rectory, he went to Barnstaple Grammar School, where a fellow pupil, Thomas Harding of Buzzacott, Combe Martin, first became known to him and who, at a later date, was to become one of his greatest opponents on Church matters. At the young age of 13, he was sent to Merton College, Oxford, and only 4 years later was elected a scholar of Corpus and gave ear to the Reformers and became a Protestant, winning great renown as a preacher. However, on the accession of Queen Mary [1553-58] - a devout Catholic - his religious opinions brought him into trouble and he was expelled from his college and fled to Germany. After 4 years of exile, he returned when Elizabeth I took over as Queen [1558-1603]. She appointed him Bishop of Salisbury and had so high an opinion of his learning that she ordered a copy of his "Apology for the Church of England" to be placed in every church in the kingdom, alongside the chained copies of the Bible. He served as Bishop for approximately 11 years, until his death in 1571. He was buried in his beloved Salisbury Cathedral.

A famous wooden screen, which had been in Bowden Farm since that date, and which was totally worm ridden, was removed some 10 to 20 years ago for preservation by specialists in Exeter. I understand that this was with the approval of both the PCC and the Parish Council and I am sure we should all like to hear of its present whereabouts and state of condition?

Tom Bartlet
Tower Cottage, May 1992

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OLD BERRYNARBOR NO. 16

The February issue described "The Cottage, Berrynarbor" now known as the Old Court, and mentioned that at the time of the Watermouth Estate Sale in 1920, Mrs. Harris and her daughter were in residence.

The picture below, taken between 1906 and 1919 [can anyone pin-point a date?] by Phillipse & Lees of Ilfracombe, shows Miss Harris with members of her dancing class outside the west-facing front of The Cottage.

 

• Back Row: Willy Harding, Rosie Bray, Fred Ley, Annie Ley, Jim Ley, Vida Squire, Ern Richards, Emmie Hicks, Bert Hicks, Bessie Harding, Arch Richards
• Seated: Reg Huxtable, Edie Ley, ? , Miss Harris, Bessie Bowden, Archie Harding
• Front Row: Rosie Huxtable, Fred Richards, ?, Walter Snell, Mabel Snell, Willy Nichols, Hettie Bowden.

Unfortunately, it has not been possible to identify two of the young ladies. If you can help by naming either the lady in the large and fetching hat sitting beside Miss Harris, or the young lady in the front row with her hands clasped, I should be delighted to hear from you.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, April 1992

See the responses to Tom's enquiry in Edition 18 here.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR
VIEW NO. 15

"The Cottage , Berrynarbor" Garratt c 1904-8

Now known as "The Old Court", this fine old property has the distinction of being listed under BERRYNARBOR in Devon's directories since the 1856 edition of Kelly's, when Mrs. Nickle was resident and when the then two public houses, The Globe and The Unicorn, were both listed. In 1870, James William Palmer, Esq. was in residence, but by 1878 Mrs. Sarah Ann Fursdon had taken over, to be replaced by Mrs. Hannah Slade Gully some time after 1893. Two sisters, Misses Hooper, were listed as the residents in 1897 and 1902, but by the 1906 listing, Mrs. Harris had taken over and remained until the property was purchased in the Watermouth Estate sale of 1920, with completion on Lady Day, 25th March, 1921.

The Sale details were:

"LOT 145 A charmingly situated slated detached private residence, known as Court Cottage [No. 52] situate in the village of Berrynarbor, in the occupation of Mrs. Harris, whose tenancy expires at Michaelmas next, comprising: A Porch Entrance, Entrance Hall, Morning Room, Drawing Room, Dining Room, Back Lobby, Kitchen, Back Kitchen, Larder, Pantry, W.C., Five Bedrooms, Two Dressing Rooms, Two Boxrooms, Upstairs W.C. &c.

Lawn, flower and vegetable gardens, tool shed, poultry house, stable, coach house or garage, coal house &c.

Front, side and back entrances, two staircases, verandah. The whole containing 2 roods:

also

A conveniently-arranged five bedroomed tiled Cottage, with potato house and wash house, No. 53, situate adjoining the grounds of Court Cottage, as now in the occupation of Mr. T. Latham as a Quarterly Tenant.

The apportioned Tithe on this lot is 4s. [4 shillings, 20p]. The timber to be taken in the sum of £5.0s.0d. There is a water tap, W.C. and bath on this lot, and also a tap in the tiled cottage. The right to maintain the stop-tap, and pipe through the Garden is reserved. "

Lot 45 above was sold for £850 and was presumably purchased by Leigh S. Stoney, who was recorded as the inhabitant in Kelly's for 1923, 1926 and 1930. In 1939 it was listed in the occupation Of Miss Helen Malcolm and called "Old Court Guest House". Alfred Duchesne was listed as the occupant of "The Olde Cottage" in the directories from 1926 to 1939.

During the 1950's, Old Court Guest House was taken over by Miss Marguerite De-Munck and remained a guest house until her death in the mid-'80's, finally going under the auctioneer's hammer in the Marlborough Club in Ilfracombe to Mr. and Mrs. Ray Carter and family. Fortunately, the new owners have spent a great deal of time and money on improvements, both inside and outside this fine, listed building. The photograph shows the practical and fine glass panelled and closed porch the property once boasted and part of the Manor House [now the Men's snooker room] can be seen in the background.

Happy New Year to You All.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1992

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - NO. 14

"Christmas Greetings", Watermouth Beach [c.1911]

 

Apt for the Christmas Newsletter, this coloured postcard was printed in Belgium for The Knight Collection of British View Cards. The young man in the centre of the picture is holding the line from one of the then several boats used for ferrying the many visitors over to Broadsands Beach, eliminating the long trek and then over 200 steps down to and later up from the Cove!

 

The second card was taken about 1908 by or for Mr. A.J. Vince of Ilfracombe and shows Broadsands and Egg Rocks, so named because the large three rocks have the appearance, from a distance and particularly at high tide, of being the top of three eggs.

Missing postcard to follow...

The third card shows the T.G.Speedwell moored in Watermouth Cove. I would appreciate any information that anyone can give me about this vessel. I believe it was moored in the harbour for over two years, but other than that there was an article in the North Devon Journal-Herald in the form of a letter to "Viewpoint" in one of the January 1957 issues, I have no further information

 

The fourth card, showing Watermouth Harbour around 1903-4, was produced by Peacock, the Pictorial Stationery Company Limited of London. A sailor and a number of children, probably local, can be seen looking out towards the open sea beyond the wooden slatted screen protecting the oyster beds belonging to Squire Bassett of Watermouth Castle. Indeed, my friend Bill Stevens of Ilfracombe, who died at the beginning of this year, was able to give me the following information he gleaned from the Barnstaple Records Office in February 1990.

North Devon Journal, 12th May, 1870
"Oyster Breeding at Watermouth"

... Mr. Arthur Davie Bassett, of Watermouth Castle, resolved to try the experiment of breeding oysters In North Devon. With this view he constructed a large reservoir on the sea beach as an oyster bed, communicating with the sea by means of a canal, and in such a manner that the water might be kept in or let out at low tide by the use of traps. A number of the small, ovate, deep shell variety of oyster, generally known as "natives", were then procured and placed in the artificial bed. Mr. Bassett found considerable difficulty at first in keeping the bed in good order, and many persons were somewhat incredulous as to the success of the experiment; but, after a great deal of perseverance, the attempt to make a spawning bed has been attended with the most interesting results. A quantity of broken pots and similar articles were placed in the reservoir, and on these the "natives" have deposited their spat, which had gradually arrived at maturity. Breeding is now going on to a remarkable extent. Mr. Bassett has kindly forwarded to us some specimens in their various stages of development, from the minute spat to the full grown oyster of four or five years. Anyone feeling an interest on the subject, may inspect them at the office of this Journal."

Happy Christmas to you all.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 13

Aerial View of Sandy Cove Hotel 7518

 

This view was taken by Pan-Aero Pictures of Kingston-on-Thames around 1930, when there was only one bungalow on Barton Lane, and on the main road only Channel View House and Seacliffe Bungalow are to be seen. The views from the sea-facing windows of Sandy Cove Hotel are really breathtaking, with the Hangman Hills and Holdstone and the Welsh Coast visible on clear days.

The Sandy Cove House was originally built for Mr. Singer of Singer Sewing Machines as a private residence in about 1923/24. The house and grounds were purchased by Mr. Rapkin, who opened it as a Hotel and it has remained a hotel right through to the present time. It is logical to suppose the Marina, depicted in this photographic postcard by Garratt of Bristol, was also built for Mr. Singer. Note the diving boards, complete with ladder to ascend and also the slide on the left, descending straight into the pool. The children in the foreground can be seen playing in the water with large sets of bouyancy bags and the water could be said to be changed twice in 24 hours!

 

The present owners, Michael and Daphne Darlington, purchased Sandy Cove way back in 1978, and moved in with their three daughters, Dawn, Linda and Claire. Dawn married Richard Gilson the following year and since then they have been increasingly involved in the running of the hotel and managing it, under Michael and Daphne's direction, since 1984-5.

As the other two daughters grew up, so did the level of operations, with at least two further business establishments, one at Lynmouth and one at Ilfracombe, named Sandpiper Inns.

To my knowledge, the Sandy Cove Hotel was the first hotel in Devon to offer regular, weekly Scandinavian "Smorgasbrod" dinner dances, which were extremely popular in the late '70 's and '80's, with people travelling from all over North Devon, as couples and in parties, to participate. I am sure we wish the Darlingtons and the Gilsons continued success.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 12
"Berrynarbor Inn. 108"

Yet another fine photograph by J. W. Garratt of Bristol. This one of the Globe was taken about 1925 and epitomises the old village inn. Note the word "Bar" over the right entrance, and the village petrol pump selling Shell Mex - it follows that the landlords in the '20's and 30's not only pumped beer, but also provided liquid refreshment for motorised vehicles of all types!

When the Inn was included in the first Watermouth Estate sale, Mr. Will Bray was landlord and remained so until March 1921. He also collected the rates and taxes for Watermouth Castle and distributed the Parish Relief [about 5/- per week (25p) in 1900].

The next landlord was Charlie Cornish [and his daughter, Doris] and in about 1923 he had the first petrol pump installed on the front forecourt. Some 7 years later, Charlie Blackmore took over and during his term, published several postcards showing both the exterior and interior views, plus a picture of GEORGE, the Globe Parrot.

The village is fortunate indeed in having Phil and Lynne Bridle [today's landlords] who have taken a real pride in The Globe, and encouraged visitors & locals alike to join them in their hostelry. Their garden has never looked better and their clematis flowers this year were as large as dinner plates!!

Extract from the Particulars, Plans and Conditions of Sale held on Tuesday, August 17th 1920, by direction of Mrs. Penn Curzon:

Lot 44. All that substantially-built, conveniently arranged and slated FULLY LICENCED HOUSE known as THE GLOBE INN situated in the village of Berrynarbor, in the occupation of Mr. W. Bray as a Quarterly Tenant. The Globe Inn comprises: Bar, Bar Parlour, Sitting Room, Cellar, Larder, Kitchen, Scullery, Pump House, Four Bedrooms, Boxroom, W.C., Lavatory, Coal House, Wash House, Potato house and Shed, Piggery, Garden and Back Entrance. Slated three-stall Stable with Loft over, Tiled Piggery and Yard, also a good Carriage House with Loft over. ALSO two SLATED COTTAGES, Nos. 41 and 42 adjoining, each containing four rooms, with Wood House, etc. in the occupation of Messrs. Leaworthy and Lancey, as Quarterly Tenants. There is a Well and Pump on this Lot and also a Water-tap, and W.C. The Cottages get their Water from a Tap in the public road.

The right to maintain the Stop-tap and Branch Pipe in the Globe Garden and which supplies Lot 46 [39 The Village] is reserved.

Note : all the above sold on the day for £1,000.0.0d.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR VIEW NO. 11
"Landslip on Combe Martin Road", January 1919

 

With the present main road between Ilfracombe/ Berrynarbor and Combe Martin reduced to single-line traffic, controlled by permanent traffic lights - due to fears of the road on the Combe Martin side of Sandy Cove Hotel falling away into the sea - the cards I have chosen are somewhat apt!

The landslip occurred about 10.00 p.m. on the 10th January, 1919, and these pictures were taken by Phillips & Lees of Ilfracombe the following morning. They show clearly the severed road and gas main just above the Old Coast Road between Watermouth Castle's sawmills and Sandy Cove.

 

The following is an extract from Page 3 Chronicle of the 11th January, 1919:

"Hundreds of Tons of Cliff Fall into the Sea"

Oh! How history can repeat itself, and to think that it was again the renewing of the gas main that brought to light the imminent danger, albeit that the danger of a further landslide had already been brought up in the '30's and land purchased to set aside for yet another new road!

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR
VIEW NO. 10
"In Berrynarbor 22"

 

This is yet another photograph by the accomplished Bristol photographer, John William Garratt [18651946), taken c1904. The postcard shows the then thatched Brookside Cottage, 63 Silver Street, next to the cottage that is now the Post Office. The occupants of Brookside at that time were Ben and Polly Draper and their children, Polly, Lucy and Ephraim. It is probable that apart from Ben, they are all shown on this photograph.

Mr. C. Huxtable lived next door at 62 Silver Street, which as mentioned in the last Newsletter, was purchased by Tom and Sarah Hicks for £155 and opened as the New Post Office in the spring of 1921.

Brookside, or 63 Silver Street, was described in the 1920 Watermouth Estate Sale as "LOT 58 - A Good Thatched Cottage with Piggery, Workshop, Garden and Premises situate in the Village and being [still] in the occupation of Mr. B. Draper as a Quarterly Tenant." Brookside sold for £100 and I presume it was Ben Draper who purchased it. [Perhaps someone can confirm this for me?]

At some stage the thatched roof was replaced with corrugated iron, which whilst practical and relatively inexpensive, looked ugly by comparison to thatch or slate. Fortunately, in the late 1980's, the old and somewhat rusted corrugated roof was replaced by a new slate roof, fitted for Mrs. Whitehouse, with an immediate improved visual appearance to the property.

Fred and Vera Whitehouse moved into Brookside back in 1947, having come from Hagley in the Midlands. Fred was a member of the Church Choir until his death in the early 1970's, and Vera moved to the Susan Day Home in Ilfracombe in May 1989, where she is still well looked after.

The property, also, is being well looked after by its new owners, who are renovating the cottage and adding a garage.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW No. 9
"The Village, Berrynarbor"

This postcard depicts a water-colour by the artist H. Hughes Richardson in 1922 for the art postcard publishers J. Salmon of Sevenoaks.

 
One of four such watercolours of the village, they were sold in the '20's in a special display pack "Picturesque BERRYNARBOR", "Water Color 4 post cards", The 6d. set" Such is inflation that I was highly delighted several years ago when I managed to pick up the entire set for £10.00, and would have given up to double that!!

In this view of Silver Street, we see the Berrynarbor National School, opened in 1848 when up to 150, yes 150, children were accommodated/crushed in. Note particularly the slate topped bell housing, complete with bronze bell - sadly, both are now lost to both school and village, as are the low railings and fuchsia hedqe which grew against the school's road-facing wall. Beyond can be seen Sam Harding's blacksmith's shop, and No. 50, Little Gables, on the corner, with St. Peter's church steps and shelter in the distance. The single storey building on the right became the new Post Office on the 25th March, 1921. This was the completion date following the sale of part of the Watermouth Estate on 17th August, 1920, when Tom and Sarah Hicks moved from their original Post Office, 36 Pitt Hill, when it sold for £350.00 - which they could not afford - and bought the buildings at 62 Silver Street instead for £155.00.

 
Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1991

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 8
"Watermouth Castle - Ilfracombe"

 

This postcard is taken from a watercolour of around 1915 by the highly accomplished and prolific artist, A. R. Quinton or ARQ as he is known by postcard enthusiasts and collectors of his work.

Whilst Berrynarbor, the Castle and much of the surrounding area comprising of almost 50 farms had been purchased in 1712 by Joseph Davie Bassett, it was not until 1825 that the building of the present Castle was commenced for Arthur Davie Bassett, and completed about 1830. He married Harriet Sarah Crawforth at Dulverton in 1828 and they returned to Watermouth and set up home with a staff of approximately 40 domestics, 7 gardeners, 2 grooms and many workers and craftsmen employed on the estate, including quarries, saw and flour mills, etc. Mrs. Penn-Curzon was the last of the Bassett family to live at Watermouth but then, a few years after the Great War in 1920, the first large sale of Watermouth Estates took place, including the majority of farms, cottages and land around and in the village of Berrynarbor. The remainder of the Estate [excluding the Castle and its grounds] were offered by auction at the Manor Hall on Thursday, 5th June, 1924. Finally, in September 1943, the antique and period contents of the Castle, its garages and sawmills went under the hammer - a Morris Cowley 12hp car realised £2.10.0., an old Russian sleigh and rubber typed cart £1.1.0. and an oil painting of a man's head attributed to Rembrandt, 15" x 17", 7 guineas [£7.7.0.]. The Castle itself was then sold in 1946 severing the last family ties and since such time has been sold and purchased several times.

During the First World War, the Castle was used as a convalescent home for army officers. During the last War, it was used to accommodate army engineers and personnel connected with the 'PLUTO' pipeline supplying fuel from South Wales into Watermouth Harbour and ending in the fields below the village, from where it was collected and taken to Chivenor for fuelling the RAF bombers stationed there.

Fortunately for Berrynarbor and North Devon, it was Richard and Antjie Haines and family who purchased the Castle back in 1978 for £50,000 - a reflection of the rundown and overgrown state it was then in. As a family they have worked hard and enthusiastically, giving it and the gardens a new lease of life and a great deal of employment and business locally. Watermouth Castle is now recognised as one of the top leisure industry Theme Parks in the country, scoring 9 out of 10 points in last year's Daily Mirror "Best Value Guide to Britain's Theme Parks". It has won several Tourist Awards and often been featured on television.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, November 1990

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 7
"Berrynarbor" Garratt No. 14 [c1904 G]

 

This view of the village was again taken by John W. Garratt, the accomplished Bristol photographer in early 1904. The picture shows not only the village centre, but also Hagginton Hill [then known as Heanton Hill] with Grattons at the top and the cultivated strip gardens strung out below. Clearly visible are the Church, Chapel, Manor House, Tower Cottage, Bessemer Thatch, the School, The Cottage [Old Court] and others. Many of the cottages were thatched and Betsy Leworthy's cottage is just showing behind the Manor House, later to be hidden by the new Manor Hall.

Garratt took this picture just as the children were coming out from the National School, as the text on the reverse side of the postcard, addressed to Miss Chugg, tells us:

"Dear Nan, Hope you like this view of B.N.R. You see that big girl talking to the three boys, well that is me. I remember the man taking the photo about 6 years ago when I was last teaching in the school. As you will see, we had just turned out. I suppose you have heard that Miss Bament 's brother committed suicide by blowing his brains out last Thursday. It has thrown quite a gloom over the village. He is going to be buried at West Down today. Much love from Bessie."

Research-wise, I should be most grateful if anyone can help me date when the card was written, believed to be about 1910. [I have even searched West Down church-yard, without success.]

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1990

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 6
Capel Cottage, Berrynarbor. 120. Garratt [c1925]

 

This must be one of the most photographed cottages in Berrynarbor. It has also been called "Wayside Cottage" [c1908] and "Rayburn Cottage" [c1920]. In about 1903/4, Mrs. Snell lived here, as a widow, with her four children, Arthur, Nelly, Walter and Mabel. Mrs. Snell took in the washing for the Reverend and Mrs. Churchill at the Vicarage. Later, Sir Reginald Beatty Wolseley and his wife, Lady Marion Elizabeth Wolseley, lived here until he died on the 9th July, 1933, at the age of 61. Lady Marion was completely heartbroken and followed her husband's coffin, dressed in white. Through tragic circumstances, she followed him less than a year later on the 23rd June, 1934. Her feelings are reflected in the inscription on his grave - where she, too, is buried - which has a pillow as its headstone and lies just inside the top gate of the churchyard.

"In tender memory of my beloved husband, Reginald Beatty Wolseley, 10th Baronet of Mount Wolseley, who went above 6th July 1933 aged 61

Peace I leave with you; my peace I give unto you; not as the world giveth, give I unto you. St. John 14.27 M.E.W."

The tiled roof showing on the left is where the village Blacksmith, Sam Harding, lived.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1990

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 5

"Berrynarbor", Garratt, No. 16 [c1904 G]. Taken by John Garratt on his first of many visits to our village way back in early 1904, this photographic postcard shows Pitt Hill with Fuchsia Cottage on the right, whilst the 'Old Post Office' with steps up to the front door can be seen as the last house on the left. The first building on the left is where the Bassetts of Watermouth Castle would stable their coach and horses whilst attending the Sunday Morning Service at St. Peter's.

The knife-sharpening barrow standing just outside "The Globe", was pushed round from village to village by Jim Glass, spending one or two days in each village sharpening knives, scythes, scissors and any other implements having at least one sharp edge. Whilst in Berrynarbor, he would doss down with Sam Harding's horses at the Blacksmith's shop next to the school, and where he knew it would be warm! He is also mentioned in "Memories of Old Bradworthy" by Cecil T. Collacott, but as Johnny Glass.

Note particularly the surface of the main village street, which is just compacted stones. As and when it required any maintenance, large stones and rocks would be brought, probably from the then quarry at Harper's Mill, Sterrage Valley, and these would then be broken into small and suitably sized stones by men employed as "stone crackers", who spent all day hitting and breaking the rocks into small stones. The steam driven traction engine would then be brought to roll the stones into the road, leaving a relatively hard but often dusty surface.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, May 1990

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 4

"In Berrynarbor.57."

This is yet another superb view taken by the celebrated Bristol photographer, John William Garratt, about 1904, on his first of several visits to our village. Taken outside 71, Higher Sterrage Valley [Vi Kingdon's) , it shows the two Street sisters, Tilley and Dorcas, feeding their ducks and chickens. Mr. Ephraim Street and his wife, Susan, lived here with their 9 children - Mary Jane, Richard, William, Ellen, Elizabeth Anne, Caroline, Edward, John, Matilda and Dorcas. The tap house on the right, which supplied water to all the nearby cottages, has been lovingly restored by Vi and now sports a new roof. In the background is 69, Barn Cottage [Kath Arscott's] , the home of Will Blake until around 1922.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, March 1990

*Reprints of this postcard are now available from the Manor Stores.

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW 3

"Donkeys at Watermouth" - these are the donkeys kept by Betsy Leworthy [grandmother of Annie Leworthy whose profile appears later in this issue] near the centre of the village, and walked daily into Ilfracombe to pick up visitors and take them for rides to Lee or Watermouth. Betsy can be seen standing between the two donkeys on the far right. She was hard working all her life and as well as managing the donkeys, she was the village coal merchant at the turn of the Century. Coal would be brought by sailing brig into Watermouth Cove at high tide and directly the tide ran out, horses and carts from the village would run up and down, loading up with coal and unloading it at Betsy's Coal Store, opposite the Globe, for redistribution. Betsy was born c1840 and married John Leworthy, the village blacksmith, about 1861. They had many children but sadly, in those days, the mortality rate was high and five of her children died between the age of 11 months and 5 years. Her tomb stone records: "Beloved children of John and Betsy Leworthy safe in the arms of Jesus" .

Betsy died on the 31st March, 1912, aged 72, a great loss and sadly missed by all the village. Her husband died nearly three years later on the 9th January, 1915, aged 74 years.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, January 1990

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 2

This view, taken c1908 by the accomplished Bristol photographer, Garratt, shows just how well he was able to persuade children and villagers to pose for his lens. In this superb shot taken outside the then Tom's house- hold, 24 & 25 Hagginton Hill, are Florrie Ley & Ada Toms making the arch, with Majorie Jones & Cecil Toms underneath.

From L. to R. Albert Latham, Doris Richards, Fanny Toms, Freda Ley, Lorna Richards, Edie Toms and Polly Latham. Watching from the steps are Mrs. T. Toms and young Leonard, and Mrs. Ley, young Johnnio and Emily. For the identifications, I am indebted to sisters Lorna Price and Muriel Richards back in 1985/6, and it is Lorna who is the smallest girl seen here with her hand by her mouth.

[Inset] A delightful picture of a pretty Miss Muriel Richards c1919. Note how Hagginton Hill was still just compacted stone, although telephones had reached the village.

Tom Bartlett,
Tower Cottage, November 1989

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 1

This view, one of many taken between c1904 and 1934 by the accomplished Bristol photographer, Garratt, shows the village street 'with the edge of a thatched Bessemer Thatch on the left, and Dormer House in the foreground. Dormer House is where David and Vi Goodman lived and brought up their son Terry.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, September 1989