Edition 61 - August 1999

 
Artwork by: Debbie Cook

EDITORIAL

Before anything else, I must thank Ann and Vi Davies and their helpers for organising the Coffee Morning for Newsletter funds - their continued support is very much appreciated. Perhaps, as it was the third such event that week, attendance was a little low, but quality rather than quantity was the essence, and those who came were extremely generous. Together with sales of the Notelets, the sum of £100 was raised and this has gone a long way to producing a healthier bank balance! My sincere thanks to you all.

Again I am grateful to everyone who has contributed to this issue [they just keep coming!]: to Debbie for her cover [my favourite green frogs!]; to Paul who continues to answer my pleas, usually at the last moment, for illustrations; to the 'regular' contributors and everyone who has found time to put pen to paper and sent in an item. My thanks, too, to Nora and Alan and Sue for distributing copies with the papers.

Items for October will be needed by Monday, 13th September, at the latest, and please let me know if you, or anyone you know, has moved in or away, is sick or has some reason for celebration and congratulation. Items can always be left in the box at the Post Office, at any time, or popped in to Chicane.

Thanks.

Judie - Ed

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FROGS AND TOADS

Frogs are increasingly found in gardens with ponds but their favourite habitats are wet woods and marshes. In summer they can be found hiding in tall vegetation, venturing out at night to hunt for insects, slugs and snails. They hibernate, either in sheltered places on land or at the bottom of ponds from mid-October. The spawn is laid in ponds, where they develop through the tadpole stage to emerge as young frogs in June or July.

Toads leave their winter hibernation spots during March or April, and in their hundreds head towards their breeding ponds, climbing walls and crossing roads, many not surviving the perilous journey - as those in the Valley know! The 7-10 foot long strings of spawn develop into tadpoles and then young toads in about 10 to 16 weeks, but only 1 in 20 is likely to survive. Mainly nocturnal, walking rather than leaping and living in drier places than frogs but on a similar diet, the female toad is usually larger than her male counterpart.

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BERRYNARBOR W.l.

It was nice to welcome Joy Morrow, on one of her short visits from the U.S., to our meeting on the 1st June. However, members were disappointed at the non-arrival of the RSPCA speaker, but fully understood how busy they are with emergency calls. Business matters were fully discussed, and 'yours truly' gave a brief account of the Battle of the Antz during the photo session for the WMN ... we kept telling them that it was not a movie!

I should like to echo Neil Morris's words and give thanks to the members who helped at the Picnic in the Park on 20th June. Doreen Prater, as Co-ordinator, did a grand job rounding up volunteers and ordering requirements - a successful venture for all concerned.

On 22nd June, Win, Linda, Rosemary and I joined many other WI members from North Devon Institutes at Marks and Spencer's Summer Special in aid of a local Breast Cancer Scanner Appeal. Wine and many tasty morsels helped make the evening a success and, of course, one could shop as well.

6th July saw the Annual Tea Party for members of the Ilfracombe Disabled Association and my grateful thanks to everyone for making it such a happy occasion. There was a wonderful selection of 'eats' and gifts for the raffle, including eight colourful floral table decorations given by Win and Linda. We missed our Ethel who had suffered a nasty fall and was well and truly 'plastered'. A card was signed by everyone wishing her well for her birthday on the 25th when she had hoped to be in Australia - well, she might not be Down Under, but knowing Ethel she will soon be Up, Up and About in Devon.

There will be no meeting in August, but several Village fetes will be requiring help. We shall meet again on 7th September, when Nick Oliver from St. John's Nursery will be giving us some Tips for our Gardens. We shall also be finalising details for the Group Social Evening that we shall be hosting on 1st October. In conclusion, knitters please note: Teddies for Tragedies are still required - lots of little folk need something to cuddle.

If you would like to help knit a teddy and need a pattern, please contact the Editor for a copy.

All the very best.

Vi Kingdon - President

Ode to a Rose

Twine round the fence, pink and crimson sprays,
Line every path with glorious blooms ablaze.
Hang on my wall a tapestry of roses,
I shall remember when the summer closes.

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IN MEMORIAM

DICK BERRY

It is with sadness that we report the death of Dick Berry on 16th June. Dick was born in Combe Martin and left in 1936 to attend a naval school at the age of 12 years. He served in the Royal Navy for 33 years, which included the 1939-45 War, where he was a survivor of HMS Repulse. He also served on Russian convoys.

If he wasn't riding his horse or visiting Honeywell Farm, he loved to walk around the Village, meeting with friends.

He will be sadly missed by his family and friends and our thoughts and prayers are with Sylvia, Richard, Vanessa and Dale at this sad time.

Sylvia would like to thank everyone for their cards and messages of sympathy and for attending the service at St. Peter's.

TED ELLIS

We were all very saddened to learn that Gail's father, Ted, had been involved in a tragic and fatal accident. Father of six girls and two boys, sixteen grandchildren and great-grandchildren, Ted will be sorely missed by his wife, Joan, and all his family and friends.

Ted and Joan have visited Berrynarbor from their home in Cambridge on several occasions. Our thoughts have been with his family, but particularly Gail, Graham, Gracie and Ryan, who would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone for their kind words and cards.

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BERRY DOWN REVISITED

Following Maud's feature on and photograph of Berry Down Church, I was delighted to receive a visit and the following letter from Iris Andrew.

I felt bound to reply to the June issue regarding Berrydown Chapel. What wonderful memories it revived for me, as our family - my husband, self and two children [the younger one being born at Twitchen Farm in 1954] came to be members of the Berrydown Chapel. Our youngest being christened there by Mr. Eville on 18th November, 1956, a copy of which is enclosed.

We had the most wonderful times in that chapel, much due to the generosity of the Chugg family at Brinscott Farm. On anniversaries, harvest, Christmas, and any other celebration, they used to provide nearly all the food and goodies for everyone - their kindness knew no bounds. The organ there was played by the late Miss McBain and myself, with rousing hymns from the Sankey Hymnal. Sunday School was run by Mrs. Eville, a very dear lady, and we had "Woman's Own" on a Tuesday afternoon when we took it in turns to provide the tea and cakes. Three old pence for each item, which went into the kitty towards expenses of any kind.

The community at Berry Down was very hard working. Mr. Jewell the Carpenter lived just down the road, and Mrs. Hockridge next door used to take in laundry. A sight to behold on a Monday, with all the lily-white sheets billowing in the wind. No washing machine, just an old copper boiler in the 'back-hovel', which had to be fired with kindling wood. The sheets were starched at the top, as were the pillowcases and all for the princely sum of six pence [2.5p].

We lived at the bottom with our two children - wages being £5 per week. But we had a good boss [Mr. F. Richards] and because he considered that we looked after the property, he only charged rent when I took in B and B guests at 8/6d per night!

I could go on, but hope this gives a flavour of what a well-knit community was like and trust that it may be of some interest.

Iris Andrew

P.S. Can anyone throw any light on the whereabouts of the church records?

Having retired from farming, Iris and her husband, Dudley, now live at Trentishoe. Iris still plays the organ at Parracombe and occasionally at Trentishoe. Linda, their daughter, lives in Barnstaple. She has two children and is Manager of the Dr. Barnardo's Charity Shop. Anthony also has two children and lives at Holsworthy. His work for a milking machine company takes him, at intervals, all over the world.

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THANKS

Our thanks to all our supporters and helpers who returned us as members for the Berrynarbor and Combe Martin Ward of the North Devon District Council, and we apologise that they are late - we missed the deadline for the June issue! We shall do our best to represent you and the concerns of our two villages.

Peter Spencer [882634] and Yvette Gubb [882364]

Claude's Garden, Berrynarbor
[International Quiet Garden Trust]

Thank you to everyone who supported the Coffee Morning and gave donations and prizes. The £175 raised will be of great help in providing the garden with a box and laminated prayer cards.

Jill [Claude's Family], Margaret [St. Peter's] and Paul [Parish Council]
Garden Support Group

Letter from Jacqui

Firstly I should like to congratulate Saffron and Keith on their marriage on the 19th June. We hope all went well and that you will both be as happy as Simon and me, and of course Sophia! We should like to thank Alan and Nora for sending us the photographs that they took of us on our very special day - it was very kind.

As some may know, Simon, Sophia and I were down over the last Bank Holiday and it was lovely to see some of our family and old friends of the village - sorry that we did not get to see all of you. It was just a shame that we could not stay longer. We wish you all a wonderful summer... that is if we have one! To finish, we send our love to our family and we are really looking forward to the arrival of the new addition in August - thinking of you Karen. See you all soon, hopefully.

Jacqui, Simon and Sophia

Just a Thank You

On Saturday, 17th July, I completed my retirement from public life at the AGM of the Devon Association of Parish Councils.

As many of you will know, my diabetes has very adversely affected my eyesight and l have decided it would be better if I do not drive. From that decision it follows that it would be better if I left the Councils' activities. So last May my name was not amongst those nominated to stand for the election. I was lucky, I could retire, my term of office completed - I had no need to resign.

My colleagues on Berrynarbor Parish Council were very kind indeed and my garden now has a birdbath and sundial in a prominent position. My thanks to them for their generosity.

My thanks also to all those people who have written to me, sent cards or just stopped to speak. It has been a pleasure to serve for 32 years in many various places. Thank you all for the privilege.

Graham E. Andrews

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BERRYNARBOR WINE CIRCLE

At the well-attended May meeting, John Hood gave a wonderful presentation on 'The Wines we used to Drink' and even included a bottle of Babycham for all those present! At the Annual General Meeting, the retiring Chairman, Officers and Committee Members were re-elected 'en bloc':

• Chairman: Alex Parke
• Secretary: Tony Summers
• Treasurer: Jill McCrae
• Committee: Jan Tonkin, Inge Richardson, John Hood, Tom Bartlett.

The programme for 1999-2000 will be published in the October Newsletter.

Tom Bartlett - Publicity Officer

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HATCHED

Celia and Laurel Draper are delighted to announce the safe arrival of their latest grandchildren, twins for Lisa and Mark Willis. The twins, Ellie Marie and Troy James were born on the 13th May, weighing 5 lbs 13 oz and 5 lbs 7 oz, a sister and brother for Hollie.

Louise [nee Walls] and David Powers are proud to announce the arrival of their son, Nathan Robert, on the 6th June. Nathan, who weighed in at 5 lbs 9 oz, is the third grandchild for Margaret and Keith and first grandchild for Audrey and Bob.

Tania and Graham Mugleston of Bodstone are happy to announce the arrival of Joe, who tipped the scales at 7 lbs 10 oz on the 17th June, a brother for Sophie and Kate.

Our congratulations and best wishes to you all.

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END OF TERM
Bad Report - Good Manners

Spike Milligan

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WELCOME

Meet [with apologies for the lateness of this introduction] the Mugleston's, who moved here from Muddiford more than two years ago! Chris and Audrey, retired farmers and ex-owners of Broomhill, are now living at Bodstone Barton, together with their two sons, Graham and Neil and their families.

No longer a tourist attraction, Graham continues to farm the complex, whilst his wife, Tania - a teacher - has been 'on supply' at our Primary School and took to the boards in this year's BBC's Show in March. They have three children, Sophie, Kate and baby Joe [who we met earlier]. Neil works for Cox's Pharmaceutical and his wife, Llywen, also works in Barnstaple. Their children, Hannah and Alan, have continued their primary education at Marwood School. A belated but very warm welcome to you all.

We are very happy to welcome Martin and Linsay Clayton, who with their daughter Verity, have moved in to Lynwood, Pitt Hill. Martin, a carpenter/joiner [see advertisement], Linsay, who works in the Medical Centre in Ilfracombe, and Verity, a student at Ilfracombe College, have moved here from Ilfracombe.

It will be holidays at Croft Lee for the Waterhouse family of Ashbourne, Derbyshire - Steve and Hannah, their three children, Rebecca, James and Laura, and Cassie the dog. Steve is a director of an UK transport company and Hannah is a trained nurse and fish doctor! Greetings to you all - we hope your holidays here will be very happy.

We also wish Kim and James, who are moving from Croft Lee, good luck and every happiness in their new home at Coastguard Cottages.

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CHILDHOOD MEMORIES - MOVING HOUSE

The Beauclerk family was on holiday at Slade in late July 1939, the war was looming and we had booked a month's hire of a holiday house. There were four of us - my mother Vi, my half-brother Gerald, my sister Jean and myself. My father died in 1936, having lost his first wife in 1922 and my half-brother Gerald, thirty years my senior, took over looking after us all, as he had never married.

For some time Gerald had toyed with the idea of a holiday house, perhaps letting it when we were not using it, and with the serious international situation, he thought now was the time to act. A visit to the estate agent provided us with two houses to view - one was at the top of Combe Martin, near the Church, and the other was Meadow Dene [now called Well Cottage]. The asking price for Meadow Dene was £1,000, which was quite a lot of money in those days, but this was the one we liked. As it was a Friday and late in the day, we hurried back to the agent and Gerald made an offer of £950, which was accepted right away. At Gerald's request, the agent rang a firm of solicitors, Messrs. Rowe, Watts and Wood, who said, "We are very sorry, but we do not work on Saturdays, so we won't be able to attend to the sale until Monday - the house won't be yours until Tuesday."

Our holiday house hire was coming to and end, so until furniture, etc., could be purchased, we had to bed and breakfast it, moving to accommodation at the bottom of Northfield Road, Ilfracombe. The window of the bedroom I was in was right by the traffic lights, so all night the room changed red, amber and green. The sequence stuck in my mind and came in handy for my driving test later in life!

After visits to Skinner and Squire [furniture] and other shops for crockery, cutlery, etc., we were able to move in. What a wonderful view from the front of the house! To the left Sterridge Valley, straight across to Hagginton Hill, and to the right a field, woods and the Bristol Channel. The accommodation was good - a bedroom each, sitting room, dining room, bathroom and two loos. There was no mains water but a well with a pump in the lean-to. The rule was quickly established that if you used the loo, you must give 40 pumps to replenish the tank on the roof and about 200 pumps if you had a bath. Later, we were connected to the mains from, I think, a small reservoir owned by Farmer Fred Richards. One summer when there was a drought, the well came back into use, not only for us but also for our neighbours.

As the premises had been empty for some years, the garden and hedges were very overgrown. Fortunately, a man came up from the village who could lay or 'steep' hedges and he made an excellent job of it and we could now enjoy the view from ground level.

At the Essex house we had a large lawn which accommodated two badminton courts and we were going to miss them. Gerald, however, suggested that we level the land to make a grass court in our new garden - after measuring, we set to with barrow, spades, rakes, etc., and put what had been quite a slope into a banked up and nicely flat area. Farmer Jim Chugg of Mill Farm agreed to us removing turf from his adjoining field and we soon had it grassed over. It was a nice garden, with hydrangeas, monkey puzzle trees [still there], various shrubs which we had unearthed, and a fruit which I'd never come across before - on a reddish, hairy vine, the fruit was like a raspberry except the particles were clear. Called 'wineberries', they were tasty and could be eaten raw or used for jam or wine. Has anyone come across them?

A small stream ran through the garden, so my mother and I got some cement and made a good little pond. Alas, the rains came and the fish were washed away!

A chicken house was needed as we had had our hens sent down from Essex. "Hedley Nicholls is your man", we were told, so Gerald and I set off to his workshop, part way down Pitt Hill. When we got there, Hedley was busy making a coffin. At my tender age I was taken back a bit! Hedley made us a fine chicken house that lasted not only through the war, but also for many years after that. The droppings boards were made of English oak - their intention obvious. Enough said!

One day Gerald said, "If this place has a septic tank, I wonder when it was last emptied?" Since no-one knew, it was decided it had better be done, just in case, and Gerald contacted Long Jack Draper who advised us that the usual procedure was to dig an adjacent pit and empty the tank in to it, leave it a few days and then cover it up with earth. At this time my mother had two dogs, a spaniel called Bill and a Pomeranian called Tiny. Tiny was inquisitive and had to examine what was going on. Standing too near the edge of the open pit, she slid in! Although she was promptly yanked out and dumped in a tin bath with Jeyes Fluid, she did have a 'presence' for a few days!

Soon after we moved in Gerald got his call-up papers, but failed his medical due to a heart problem, so was advised he would have to do work of national importance. He was given a job as a labourer on Stan Huxtable's farm, North Lee. My sister Jean and I were sent to Ilfracombe Grammar School and my mother looked after the house.

We began growing vegetables but the rabbits thought we were doing it for them! How to deal with them? Mr. Leaworthy was the man. When he arrived he had two bags in his hands and one sticking out of his pocket. We were puzzled, but it soon became clear. One bag contained two ferrets and the other the nets. He pegged the nets around the holes and then popped in a ferret. Soon the rabbits ran out into the nets and were caught. He killed them with a chop of his hand and into the bag they went. Every year he would come to us and do this, missing a couple or so - but then that's all you need for next year's job!

Tony Beauclerk, Colchester

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MOTH
John Mole [1941-]

Pity my silence pressing at your window
Frail and motionless against the night;
A baffled spectre framed by blackness.
Little moonflake, prisoner of glass.
This is my journey's end, receive me.
Brilliant keeper, rise and let me in.
 
Then later, when from a drawer perhaps
You take my body, wasted, brittle
As a shred of antique parchment, hold it
Gently up to the light I loved
But which bewildered me, until
I fly away again, a ghostly powder
Blown or shaken from your hand.

Illustration by: Paul Swailes

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ST. PETER'S CHURCH

What a magnificent response to our Gift Day Appeal for the Tower Fund. The total sum received to date stands at £1,396 - well over twice as much as last year. Thank you all for your generosity. Although the large sum we need for repairs to the tower seems daunting, the fund already stands at nearly £12,000, thanks to the money set aside by the PCC over the past year and to further donations apart from those received on Gift Day.

We are at present in the final stages of preparation for the Flower Festival and this will be reported on next month. At the same time, plans are underway for the Summer Fayre to be held on Tuesday, 17th August. Gifts for the various stalls will be most welcome - notably cakes, books, toys, plants and produce, china and glass, good bric-a-brac - and also prizes for the raffle, tombola and hoop-la. Please let Betty Davis [883541] or me [883881] know if you would like to help on the day.

Advance Notice: the Harvest Festival will be on Sunday, 3rd October and Evensong and Harvest Supper, with Auction of Produce, will be the following Wednesday, 6th October. The church will be decorated on the Friday, 1st October. Gifts of fruit, vegetables and flowers should be brought to the church on the Thursday or Friday morning, and they will be most gratefully received.

Mary T.

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SCENTSATIONS

Having sold their garage business at Mortehoe, Sheila [Toms] and Tony Bolt [late of Cross Park] have moved to Ilfracombe. Their new venture, a shop in Ilfracombe, is opening on the 17th July and 'Scentsations' as its name implies, will sell fragranced candles and other gifts. The very attractive candles will make ideal birthday, wedding and Christmas presents. If you are in Ilfracombe, do call in and see them - 1 Church Street, just below Somerfields.

Whilst Sheila and Tony are busy 'keeping shop', their sons Craig and Darren are collating market research statistics for a computer company in Essex and following a Travel and Tourism course at the North Devon College. We wish you all every success.

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ILFRACOMBE & DISTRICT AGE CONCERN

6 Church street, Ilfracombe Tel: [01271] 862131
Monday - Friday 10.00 a.m. to 12.00 noon and 1.30 to 3.30 p.m.

We offer advice and information to all Senior Citizens in your area. We also offer support to small groups of elderly people who have difficulty funding transport for social activities - please contact us if you are interested.

We are seeking volunteers to act as local contacts. Full support is given and out-of-pocket expenses paid. Please call us if you can help - it's quite painless!

The new NHS 24 hour helpline for minor ailments is now in operation throughout Devon. If you have not received a leaflet with a 'phone sticker, contact us at the Centre.

Registered members receive regular newsletters with information about changes in legislation and benefits, plus news of our social activities. Why not join today?

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BERRYNARBOR IN BLOOM

Vi and Ann would like to thank all who have contributed many hours of their time in helping with planting and watering. The effort of everyone involved has been wonderful and the displays throughout the Village are a credit to your hard work. Thanks.

Coffee Morning on the Glorious Twelfth
Thursday, 12th August,10.00 to 12.00 noon, Manor Hall

Thanks to Rainer's creation, the Village's flowerpot person is now 'flourishing' in situ by the Post Office. To help with the cost, we are holding a Strawberries and Coffee Morning on 12th August.

Donations of cakes, bric-a-brac and produce will be very welcome. Please phone Vi [882696] if you require any item collected, or bring items along to the Manor Hall on the 12th. EVERYONE welcome!

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GET WELL

Get well wishes to everyone who has been unwell recently -- we hope you will soon be feeling a lot better.

It is good to report that Jill McCrae is out of hospital and in circulation again, as is Brenda Leyton following her knee operation. Lorna Price is currently in hospital and progressing well following her operation, whilst Ethel Tidsbury, although 'plastered' following her accident, is on the move again! We are thinking of Colin Purdue and his family following his serious car accident and hope that he will be on the mend soon.

We were glad to learn that Kathleen Joslin's operation had gone successfully, but sad to learn that she and Audrey and Tom Tucker will no longer be able to visit us - we shall miss them and wish them all well.

We also miss seeing Helen and Bonny around the Village and send them our best wishes and hope they are enjoying their stay in Lynton.

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ROSE COTTAGE'S DORIS

Contrary to belief, Doris, the duck, is alive and paddling with her brood of nine children. This is despite the fact that a well-known Berrynarbor Campsite has an alleged pot of orange sauce ready and waiting. No names mentioned, but there is a large pond on the site!

 
Illustrated by: Kevin McLintock

Surrogate mum, Jane is currently naming her babies. Sampras, Tiny Tim, Greg, Andre and Steffi have been christened - suggestions for the remaining four via the PO Newsletter box please.

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WEATHER OR NOT

We were lucky to pick May to repair our roof. Most of the threatened showers seemed to miss Berrynarbor, although the forecasts gave us a few panics! May had only 44mm [1 3/4"] of rainfall in total slightly drier than last year when we recorded 57mm [2 1/4"]. Looking back further to May 1996, we had the wettest day of that year with 60mm [2 3/8"] in one 24-hour period.

Flaming June came in like a damp squib with 59mm [2 3/8"] of rain in the first six days. Fortunately, it then dried up for a couple of weeks before turning soggy again, and producing a further 29mm [1 1/4"]. June 1996 was the driest month of that year with a total of only 56mm [2 1/4"] rain.

The temperatures in May and June averaged about the same as in 1998, with the hottest day on 26th June when we recorded 28.9 Deg C.

We had a slight technical hitch with the wind speed readings at the beginning of July. We could not understand why we hadn't recorded any wind until we discovered that a spider had spun a web across the anemometer and stopped it moving! Fortunately, we were saved a trip up to the roof by a strong gust of wind, which freed it off. So much for modern technology!

Sue and Simon

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BEATRIX POTTER IN BERRYNARBOR

It isn't often that one meets a party of 15 American ladies trooping into our lovely old Berrynarbor church. But that is what happened a couple of Sundays ago - when to our amazement, the Beatrix Potter Society of America came especially to see and follow up her links with our village and church.

In conversation with the group, who came from all over America and even Alaska, we discovered that they were far more knowledgeable about our church, village and the Berry and Bassett families than we were - and all through the writings of her life by Beatrix Potter.

We were pleased to show them all the things they especially wanted to see in the church and churchyard, which delighted them and then they were shepherded off by their leader on to their next destination and in due course to the Beatrix Potter Centre in the Lake District.

It so aroused our interest that we wrote to the Society in London who replied promptly and with much interesting information about this lady and her work. We wonder if anyone was aware of her visits here.

The following is an extract from her journal covering the family's holiday in Ilfracombe 1882:

"We drove to Berrynarbor in the morning of 5th., and we first passed the picturesque village of Hele with its pretty harbour: here papa stopped to take a photograph. We walked up the hill and had a good view. We passed Samsons Caves and reached Watermouth Harbour, with a pigeon-house and oyster-bed on the opposite side.

Then there was Watermouth Castle. It was the residence of Mr. Bassett, who had a large estate here. He was rather queer, they say he did not live at the Castle but at a little house further on. His horse ran away with him and broke his neck at the corner of a field further on.

We returned inland, the road returning beside a beautiful little trout stream. This little valley is the prettiest place about here. Berrynarbor Church stands well on the top of a hill. It is a quaint straggling old village consisting chiefly of one steep street.

We stopped at the shop of the churchwarden, who was the leading draper. He was a tall thin man with a red nose. We went up five or six steps through an old gateway into the churchyard, in which stood some fine elms and a very old yew tree. The warden said it was eight hundred, it was still full of vigour.

In a railed space were the graves of the Bassett family. There were some beautiful lilies on the late Mr. Bassett 's.

The Church is rather a large one with a very fine old tower. Inside were two fine old monuments to the Berry family, from which the place took its name. The first dated 1642-6 represented the Lord and Lady kneeling, dressed in ruffs, with the sons beneath him and a daughter beneath her. The second was larger, and represented a lady of the same house kneeling, in ruff. The inscription was made on bad stone and had flaked away.

There was an old chapel with a Norman arch. An old house, perhaps once the vicarage, was said to be built at the time of Edward IV. Some carved stones in the wall bore the arms of the Plantagenets, but they were taken to the Castle by Mr. Bassett.

The village children came out of school while papa was photographing in the churchyard. They came in at the front gate the warden turned them out, whereupon they immediately came in at the side one, but were again expelled.

Mr Poole was exceedingly angry".

Win and Dennis Collins

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CONGRATULATIONS!

Stuart and Ginny Neale are happy to announce the engagement of their daughter Kate to Joe, son of Peter and Vanessa Barnes of Ilfracombe.

Kate is currently studying at Oxford Brookes University for a degree in Primary School Education and Joe is serving in the 1st Battalion Coldstream Guards, and has recently taken part in the Trooping of the Colour Ceremony at Horse Guards.

... and the bride was left standing on the church steps as the groom 'scooted' off! Congratulations and very best wishes to Sarah [Songhurst] and Clive Darch whose marriage at Barnstaple Registry Office was followed by a Blessing and the Christening of baby Coalin at St. Peter's Church.

Congratulations to Ben Sanders on his success in the recent North Devon Junior Tennis Tournament - winning the Mixed Doubles Championship and receiving a Special Award and a Sportsmanship Award.

We have always been proud of our superb 'local', but thanks to Phil and Lynn, The Globe has now been well and truly put on the map! In a recent Independent Supplement, Alistair Aird, Editor of The Good Pub Guide 1999, put The Globe on his list of the 50 Best of Britain's pubs and into the 10 Best Pubs for Families. Top school, now top pub - what more can we ask? Thank you, Phil and Lynn, for all that you do for the Village and congratulations!

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THE LONG, LONG WALK!

Mitch and I would like to thank everyone who gave so generously to the Millennium Sponsored Walk from Berrynarbor to Simonsbath. So far, the grand total collected is £1,462, which will hopefully have reached £1,500 by the time you read this.

The walk was started at the church steps by the eldest resident of the Village, Una Warburton, at 9.00 a.m. by the dropping of a Union Jack flag and Neil Morris was there to film the event. We arrived at Simonsbath at 1600 hours, having been followed for the last couple of miles by two goats that, I think, took a fancy to Mitch's legs!

We should like to thank everyone who supported us, but especially Derrick Phillips and John Clark who followed us through three bad sections of road with their vehicle hazard lights on and our refreshment stop lady, Diane, who was at three different spots to greet us when we arrived with drinks and foot-spray! We must not forget Paul Bowden who made up the signs for the vehicle and Denise and Maurice for providing us with very welcome ice creams.

Danny Lloyd

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THE REST CURE

Everyone agreed, I'd had an awful cough and some sea air and a brief sojourn in Normandy could only be beneficial. So, my sister Brenda, Iain and I booked up for mid-June. We would sail at midnight on the 'Barfleur' out of Poole. The great bonus was that we should spend the afternoon and evening with our son and family, who live in Poole and where we could spend hours drooling over our adorable baby grandson. But, I had reckoned without M. Guillain-Barre's intervention!

Mysteriously my feet became numb, my fingers developed a tingling sensation and I had an excruciating backache. What's more, I had a wobbly gait. Owing to the cough, I'd been unable to attend the last meeting of the Wine Circle so don't blame John Hood!

So, the beginning of June saw me heading off in the direction of Barnstaple, not Poole.

The Rest: 11 days on a hospital bed during which time countless tests were carried out to eliminate causes of the symptoms.

The Cure: There is no cure for the post-viral neuropathy caused by the syndrome. However, Guillain-Barre and I mutually agree that we are not compatible and he is slowly making his departure [never to return, I hope!]. Now I can get back to the garden and all the other things I enjoy.

May I please take this opportunity to thank so many family and friends from near and far for their kind concern and good wishes - all of which I greatly appreciated.

Jill McCrae

NB - For the medically minded, Guillain and Barre were the two French doctors who first described the syndrome of symptoms in 1916.

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NEWS FROM WINSLADE WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

On the 10th April, we received a call from a couple in Littleham who had found a tawny owl nestling. Unfortunately, the poor little creature had been found bedraggled and soaked through, on the edge of a stream which runs through their garden. They had immediately taken him home and put him in a box somewhere warm and quiet. Luckily the couple knew what to do to keep the owl's stress level down. This is so important with wildlife casualties because many die as a result of shock, and keeping them warm and quiet in a dark place is vital to improve their chances of survival. The couple managed to feed the little tawny well and stayed up feeding it throughout the night.

When they 'phoned us the next morning, we realised that they were doing a grand job and that the owl had been given the best possible chance of survival. When this delightful little owl arrived at the Sanctuary, we immediately put him in one of our incubators to keep its heat at a safe level. He fed well and after a few days we knew he was going to make a full recovery.

Over the next couple of weeks he became stronger and stronger and was fit enough to travel to the RSPCA wildlife field unit in Taunton, where he joined another lonely similar-aged tawny owl. A wildlife rehabilitation scheme for these two owls is now well underway.

Then there is Sweet Pea. She arrived at the Sanctuary as a tiny pheasant but grew into a beautiful peacock! That was a bit of shock. She was literally a few days old when she arrived, she had been found on a street in Barnstaple. She spent the first few days in the incubator and then progressed to spending time in a pocket of our overalls to keep her warm! By the time she was a few weeks old we began to question just what she actually was - a bit like the ugly duckling story. She certainly no longer looked liked a pheasant! Then the green sheen came out and the tuft on the head and finally she became a he and we realised we had a peacock. By this time we had grown very attached to Sweet Pea and he is now living in the lap of luxury with two of our very special supporters, which means that we can still 'pop over' and visit him.

If you would like to know more about your local wildlife sanctuary, please feel free to contact us and we will send you a leaflet - Tel: 01237 451550.

P.S. If anyone should know the couple who brought in the little tawny, could you please ask them to contact us - we have the photos we promised but, oops, we lost their address!

"Caring for injured, cruelly treated, distressed and orphaned wild birds and animals".

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LOCAL WALKS - 55
Underneath the Arches

"Do not miss the triumphal arch at the end of an avenue, on a hill." The guidebook's recommendation sounded intriguing so we went to Filleigh to follow the woodland walks, recently opened there to the public, which feature the Palladian arch, on its hill overlooking the mansion.

From the car park at the new village hall, we crossed fields and went along a wide track through a wood. Suddenly, there was an opening where a broad avenue of beech trees flanked the stone edifice; a high arch in the middle, with a smaller one to each side.

Facing it, a mile away across the valley was Castle Hill, a yellow ochre mansion built in the Palladian style; long and low, with its central cupola and set in a park landscaped by William Kent. [Some of the 18th century landscape was recreated after a storm in 1990 destroyed many trees.] The vista was further enhanced by a castellated, artificial ruin on high ground beyond the mansion. Much of the central part of the house burnt down in 1934 but was restored to its original 18th century proportions. Nikolaus Pevsner calls it, 'one of the stateliest mansions in Devon'. The triumphal arch, built in 1730, was also ill-fated as it was blown down in 1951 and rebuilt ten years later.

As we left the wood, we came across a grey partridge in the corner of a field. This is the native partridge, now decreasing in numbers. It had the characteristic dark chestnut, horseshoe mark on its chest.

We returned to the village by Meadow Park. Across the road was St. Paul's Church, in a pretty setting and with honeysuckle around the gate. Despite the verdict of the Reverend Sabine Baring Gould, we went to have a look. The Victorian, Devonshire clergyman, historian and writer of hymns, in his guide book, published in 1907, wrote, "The church is absolutely devoid of interest"!

The church underwent remodelling in the 18th and 19th centuries, to achieve a neo-Norman style building. Inside it is very highly decorated. The chancel is panelled with leaf patterns of multi-coloured stone mosaic. The wagon roof is also brightly painted with leaf motifs. As one enters, the effect of all this sumptuous colour and pattern is startling.

We walked along the road to Hoyle's wood, where a second way-marked route has been created, up through the trees - a quagmire in places - and then forming a loop to go alongside the River Bray; a river which lacks the fame and glamorous image of the Exe, Torridge or Taw, but which is also very beautiful. As we approached the bridge, a sparrowhawk suddenly swept low and rapidly out of the wood, doubtless to ambush some small bird.

Near the Filleigh sawmills, a spotted flycatcher was perched on the end of a branch, its upright, watching stance typical of this acrobatic summer visitor. Its plumage is usually described as inconspicuous - grey-brown back, lightly streaked, whitish front, with spotted crown - but it is a very interesting bird to watch as it darts from a post or branch in pursuit of passing insects, twisting and turning in the air; hovering; flicking its wings and tail. It likes the edges of deciduous woods and clearings, orchards and parks. The sound it makes is also distinctive - just like a wheelbarrow with a squeaky wheel. We observed it return to its perch again and again, so active and so agile. It was quite a performance.

Illustrations by: Paul Swailes

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Glorious Devon

Harold Boulton

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BERRYNARBOR PRE-SCHOOL

We are delighted to announce that as from the September term, we shall be welcoming our new Leader, Caroline Mobie, to the Group. Caroline has four children of her own and lives in Ilfracombe.

If you are interested in sending your child to our Pre-School, Caroline will be very happy to discuss her plans for the Group. She can be contacted through our Chairman, Alice Wilson [883333].

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SO, YOU THINK YOU KNOW BERRYNARBOR!
Part 2

For the second part of this mini-series, can you locate the following?

Part 3 will be on the names of houses and roads, so look out for them!

Some additions to the list of occupations [with apologies]: 2 WRNS, 1 Carol Levis Discovery and 1 Newsletter Editor.

Alan Rowlands

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GREETINGS FROM BERRYNARBOR PRIMARY SCHOOL

With the Summer Term drawing to an end, it is a pleasure to look back on all that we have achieved during a very hectic year!

The results of the SAT's have been extremely good, and we bid farewell to our Year 6 pupils as they leave Berrynarbor behind and move on to the next stage of their education. The staff and pupils will remember their contributions to the life of the school long after they are gone, and we wish them every success.

We also remember a fascinating visit to Bristol, the memorable highlights of which are recorded in art and photographs in the school library. Sports Day was a whole day this year -- skills in the morning, traditional races in the afternoon and a warm, sunny day was a real bonus! Thank you to all those who came to support us.

The PTA Fete was a resounding success and raised over £2,000 for school funds. It was my first experience of the event and I was amazed by the superb organisation and enthusiasm of all those taking part. On behalf of the school, a big thank you for all your hard work.

Next term will see us gearing up for the Millennium and starting on a series of projects in preparation for that celebration.

The school looks lovely with its complement of flowers and hanging baskets and we are proud to be playing our part in the Village in Bloom Competition. Good luck to all of us!

Best wishes for a relaxing summer.

Simon Bell

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MILL PARK DUCK RACE

As part of the Millennium events, a Duck Race was held at Mill Park on the Sunday of the Spring Bank Holiday at the end of May. A well-attended event since this was the start of the half-term holiday.

Luckily, the weather stayed fair - dull, but it did not rain. Three races were held - the Napps Touring Park Paddle, the Watermouth Waddle and the host's race, the Mill Park Meander - with prizes donated by the three caravan sites.

Numbered ducks were sponsored to raise funds for the Millennium Fund. The ducks were released at Mill Park, racing down the stream, over the waterfall and on to Sawmills, where they were caught at the bridge - though a few were missed and did sail on to Watermouth and out to sea!

As well as an afternoon of fun, the sum of £325 was raised and our thanks go to everyone who came to help on the day, both collecting sponsor money and venturing into the stream to get soaked whilst assisting the ducks on their way and to collect them at their destination.

Brian and Mary Malin - Mill Park

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MEASLES IN THE ARK

The night it was horribly dark.
The measles broke out in the Ark;
Little Japheth, and Shem, and all the young Hams,
Were screaming at once for potatoes and clams.
And 'What shall I do,' said poor Mrs. Noah,
'All alone by myself in this terrible shower?
I know what I'll do: I'll step down in the hold,
And wake up a lioness grim and old,
And tie her close to the children's door,
And give her a ginger cake to roar
At the top of her voice for an hour or more;
And I'll tell the children to cease their din,
Or I'll let that grim old party in.
To stop their squeazles and likewise their measles.'
She practised this with the greatest success:
She was everyone's grandmother, I guess.
 

Susan Coolidge

Illustrated by: Paul Swailes

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MILLENNIUM UPDATE

Our main fund-raising events have now all taken place. Michael Bowden and Danny Lloyd's Walk - we have it on video! - brought overwhelming sponsorship. This is recorded earlier, as is Mary and Brian and the Malin family's Great Duck Race. A well-attended and 'fun' afternoon, with only a duck or two escaping into the Bristol Channel. Finally, our very successful Picnic in the Park. Bands waived their fees, Julie Richards presented a beautiful doll for the raffle [which was won by Ann Davies], and Mark Adams offered a brand new car, all you had to do was throw six sixes with six dice! Panic set in inside a quarter of an hour when someone threw FIVE! A special thanks to Doreen Prater and all her WI volunteers who fed and watered the workers all day. Fine weather and the generosity of folks blessed all three events.

Fingers crossed, we have now reached our financial target. Building permission has been given by the NDDC for the fountain; Be Barten [with Debbie's help] is working on it day and night; mugs and plates are ordered - so all is proceeding well. Please don't forget to register your child at the Post Office, we don't want any unhappy faces on the day!

Hopefully, we shall be able to give the diary of events for the Millennium Celebrations in the next Newsletter and thank you all for your support.

Neil Morris - Chairman
Berrynarbor Millennium Committee

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AT-A-GLANCE-DIARY

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Artwork by: Debbie Cook

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MANOR HALL MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE

The Berry Revels will again be taking place, both inside and outside the Manor Hall on TUESDAY, 3rd AUGUST, starting at 6.30 p.m. Let's hope for a fine evening. Any offers of help would be appreciated and the more visitors we can encourage to attend, the better the event will be all round.

In 1978, the first Horticultural and Craft Show was held in Berrynarbor, on the first Saturday in September. Each year gardeners have complained that the weather has been - too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry - and the date of the show is usually - too late, but occasionally too early!

Rise to the challenge, ladies and gentlemen, show us your produce!

Saturday, 4th September, is the target date. Schedules and entry forms will be available from mid-August from the usual places. Please ask at the Post Office for your copy. Let's have another successful Show, whatever the weather.

Remember you 'snappers', knitters, cooks, wine makers, artists and floral artists, you don't even have the weather to contend with, so no excuses for anything but a bumper number of entries in all classes. It is fun anyway!

A reminder to last year's trophy winners, that if you have not already done so, trophies should be returned to me as soon as possible. Thanks!

See you first at the Revels and then at the Show.

John Hood - Chairman

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THERE'S GOLD IN THEM THAR HILLS' - BUT AT WHAT PRICE?

Wherever there is a community, there will be rogues! And Skagway was no different. This 'hick' town lies framed by rugged mountains in South East Alaska, a vast land once owned by the Russians and sold to the US in 1867 for 'peanuts'. Now it bustles only when the massive cruise ships make it their temporary home. In 1897, things were very different. Gold Rush Fever had started when 68 miners reached Seattle on the 17th July 1897 in the steamship 'Portland', with over a ton of gold, found by accident in Rabbit Creek, a tributary of the Klondike River, about 11 miles from Dawson City.

At one time, 60,000 'wanna be' prospectors queued to climb by one of two equally difficult routes in order to reach Dawson City, They had left their comfortable homes and families to sail the dangerous waters of the Inside Passage from Seattle. Now there was nothing for it but a hard, steep, 33-mile slog either up the notorious White Pass or equally difficult Chilkoot Trail. These territories were so forbidding, with temperatures often plummeting to -50 Deg C, that in an effort to avoid mass starvation and disease, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police imposed mandatory supply regulations. No one could enter that area of Canada from Alaska without a ton of food and supplies, enough for a year. This meant that a prospector would have to carry a 50 lb pack up the steep trail, and repeat the climb between 30 and 40 times!

The fame of the gold strike also attracted almost every crook, gambler, 'painted lady' and adventurer in Canada and the US. One such was 'Soapy Smith'. Amongst his many tricks, he hit on a simple scam. In Seattle, he would sell dogs to the prospectors to help them pull their loads up the Trail not huskies, but any dog, be it Labrador, poodle or Heinz 57! Of course, once the prospectors tried them out in Skagway, they soon discovered how useless they were and let them go to wander the streets. 'Soapy' was then paid as the official Dog Catcher to round them up, when he promptly took them back to Seattle and sold them to the next naive shipload.

This and other ruses made him very unpopular and ultimately he was shot. Unfortunately, as so often is the case, an innocent man got in the way of one of the bullets. If you ever go to Skagway, seek out the old graveyard. There you will find 'Soapy's' grave - he's the one behind bars! Next to him is buried the innocent man, whose epitaph reads: 'He gave his life for the honour of Skagway'. Next to his grave is that of Klondike Kate, 'painted lady' par excellence, whose epitaph reads: 'She gave her honour for the life of Skagway'!

So what was considered essential for a year's supplies? The full list is too long to repeat here, but it starts with 400 lbs of flour [that's 8 33-mile treks!] and includes 150 lbs each of bacon and split peas [another 6 treks], 100 lbs sugar, 75 lbs of evaporated apples, peaches and potatoes, 40 lbs rolled oats, 25 lbs butter, 8 lbs baking powder, 18 cans of condensed milk, 10 lbs salt and 1 lb pepper, I gallon of vinegar, etc.

Then there is a box of candles [plus 3 lbs of candle wick], tin of matches, 5 bars of Castile soap and 6 bars of tar soap. Added to this is a rubber sheet, pick, axe, shovel, whip and hand saws, files, hatchets, chisel, gold pan, cooking pots, coffee pot, covered pails, eating bowls, granite cup, knife, fork, teaspoon, tablespoon [l of each], draw knife[?], tape measure, compass, and 200ft of 5/8" rope. One journey would be necessary to carry 10 lbs oakum [loose fibre obtained by untwisting and picking old hemp ropes and used especially in caulking], 10 lbs pitch and 26 lbs of assorted nails! Not to be forgotten is a spare axe handle and stone, emery stone, solder outfit, jack plane, a brace and assorted bits.

As if this isn't enough, the prospector must take a tent, 14qt galvanised pail, medicine chest, sheet iron stove, 25 lbs canvas sacks and a washbasin - wot, no kitchen sink! The final items on the list are personal clothes, extra boots and a sled for winter travel.

There must have been some honour amongst thieves; after all, who guarded the loads already transported to the top of the trail whilst you made the 66 mile round trip with the next load?

What the prospectors didn't know was that after all the effort, financial loss and unbelievable hardships endured on the White Pass or Chilkoot Trail, their dream of untold wealth was shattered when they arrived at Dawson City to discover that all the gold creeks had been claimed.

But, men were tough in 1897, there was no sneaking out to buy a Lottery ticket in those days!

But what of the womenfolk? They were tough too. In the words of Annie Hall Strong - the wife of a businessman from Seattle who settled in Skagway: "Women have made up their minds to go to the Klondike, so there is no use trying to discourage them. When our fathers, husbands and brothers decided to go, so did we, and our wills are strong and unfailing. We will not be drawbacks nor hindrances and they wont "have to return on our account".

She then wrote a paper on "From Woman's standpoint . . . what should be taken and what should be left behind." Watch this space to find out what they were!

PP of DC

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OLD BERRYNARBOR - VIEW NO. 60
Heanton Hill, Berrynarbor

The first of the photographic postcards was produced by E.A. Sweetman & Son, Limited of Tunbridge Wells around 1926, and shows Heanton Hill, as well as Pitt Hill leading up to the centre of the village. The picture - taken from 'Turn Around' at the top of Rectory Hill - shows, in the centre, the rear view of what was then the Old Post Office, Pitt Hill, and which was rebuilt in the late 20's or 30's to form Langleigh Guest House and Lee View, shown in Sweetman's second view taken around 1950.

Also seen in the second view is the rear of 37 the Village, the home of Vic, Nita and John, and behind the roofs of The Lodge and Fuchsia Cottage. Note how in the second picture Heanton Hill has become Hagginton Hill, the name we all know today. North Lee Farmhouse and outbuildings can be seen at the bottom of the Hill and note the large haystack in the corner field, where today we find Lee Haven.

Careful examination of the two pictures reveals that apart from the extensive alterations to the Old Post Office to form Lee View and Langleigh Guest House, very few changes at all were made between 1926 and 1950.

Tom Bartlett
Tower Cottage, July 1999

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A PUZZLEMENT

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LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINTS

Warmly clothed this wintry day
Air so clean, gentle horses sit sea of grey.
Chasing the waves on the clean soft sand;
I walk with my dog her leash in my hand;
As she runs and chases the ebbing tide
'Tis only her pawprints the sea will hide.
The whispering sand says "Thank you please stay"
You leave only your footprints when you walk away.
 
Soon the warm weather will change that serene scene,
The next few months the shores will never be clean.
Cars and coaches will bring tourists and trippers
Heading for our beaches to mark out their pitches.
 
Bottles, sandwiches, cans, oil, to name but a few,
These items they'll bring on the sand they will strew.
Litter-bins empty - too far to go - after buying their ice-cream
The wrappers they'll throw onto the sand once soft and clean;
Or into the sea hoping never to be seen.
 
The sun's going down, but the sunset is grey,
The tourists and trippers have gone for today.
My heart is saddened by the troubled tide
I stand and look, dog on leash by my side.
Frothy and littered it struggles to clean
The debris left where the sunworshippers had been.
As I turn around to walk away;
The whispering sands cry out and say -
"Please tell these people when they leave each day
LEAVE ONLY THEIR FOOTPRINTS TO WASH AWAY."

Ann Moseley - Poole

Illustrated by: Peter Rothwell

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